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Old 07-15-2011, 04:53 AM   #11
watersr
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This is what I really want to do. Anyone have plans for one using 110 and being very basic and cheap? I have a 10 gal cooler or a 5 gal SS kettle I could use. Any thoughts on which would be best?

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Old 07-15-2011, 01:35 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by watersr View Post
This is what I really want to do. Anyone have plans for one using 110 and being very basic and cheap? I have a 10 gal cooler or a 5 gal SS kettle I could use. Any thoughts on which would be best?
The 10 gallon cooler. You need more than 5 gallons available.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:05 PM   #13
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watersr,

Check out my Hybrid Brew Rig in my signature. Make sure to click on Evilgnome6's link at the bottom of the thread. Great plans to make a 110 system on the cheap.

AiredAle,

Any details on your level switch? I've burned out one element and almost lost another. Sounds like good insurance.

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Old 07-19-2011, 01:09 PM   #14
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I know the question wasn't directed at me, but here is the float switch I use:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Water-Liquid-Level-Float-Stainless-Steel-Switch-Sensor-/260817815936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb9f4 0980

I picked that one after *almost* buying a plastic one that was 3x the price. I run the SSR control signal from the PID through that thing before connecting to the SSR.

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Old 07-19-2011, 01:30 PM   #15
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Thanks Walker,

I'll have to see if that is going to work in my cooler. I'm sure it will, just have to decide if I want to drill another hole in it. Nice price though.

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Old 07-19-2011, 01:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
I know the question wasn't directed at me, but here is the float switch I use:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Water-Liquid-Level-Float-Stainless-Steel-Switch-Sensor-/260817815936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb9f4 0980

I picked that one after *almost* buying a plastic one that was 3x the price. I run the SSR control signal from the PID through that thing before connecting to the SSR.
I've been eyeballing those switches in case I want to add a Grant to my rig. I'm always afraid to walk away when the pump is running, in case the flow gets stuck.
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:36 PM   #17
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Hey Walker,

What's the thread size on that thing? I assume it's not pipe thread, right? I'm wondering how it could be used in a non-weldless configuration. Is the first nut (the one closer to the float) permanently attached or can it spin up and down the threads, too?

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Old 07-19-2011, 01:49 PM   #18
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I'll have to see if that is going to work in my cooler. I'm sure it will, just have to decide if I want to drill another hole in it. Nice price though.
The threaded post on there isn't long enough to go all the way through the insulated double wall of a cooler. You would have to cut away a piece of the outer shell and insulation in order to install in through just the inner wall of the thing.


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What's the thread size on that thing? I assume it's not pipe thread, right? I'm wondering how it could be used in a non-weldless configuration. Is the first nut (the one closer to the float) permanently attached or can it spin up and down the threads, too?
I am not sure what the exact type/size of threading is, but I know that it's not pipe threaded. The hex shaped piece closest to the float is fixed in place and does not move. I think I had to drill an 1/4" hole in the kettle for it. I don't remember specifically.... I just drilled it out a bit at a time until the post fit through the hole.
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
I am not sure what the exact type/size of threading is, but I know that it's not pipe threaded. The hex shaped piece closest to the float is fixed in place and does not move. I think I had to drill an 1/4" hole in the kettle for it. I don't remember specifically.... I just drilled it out a bit at a time until the post fit through the hole.
Does the hex look like its welded to the tube or just pressed on? I'm wondering if it's possible for fluid to get between the two.

Thanks!
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:20 PM   #20
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I have a 2000W element in a 5 gallon pot. It works for normal 5 gallon batches if you increase your mash water/grist ratio and/or do a double batch sparge. Since going to 10 gallons, I use it to heat the strike water (usually do not need more than 5 gallons) and also as supplement hot water if I need to adjust mash temp, or to do a mashout. The rest of the sparge is heated in my BK, drained into a bucket until sparge time.

Its definitely a juggling act, so I would recommend going with 10 gallons to begin with. I will probably move to a sankey eHLT at some point, probably when I can find someone who wants to buy the 5 gallon one off me. I originally bought the 5 gallon pot thinking I would never do anything other than partial boils. Now that the sickness has taken hold, I’m looking to do the biggest batches I can physically manage.

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