watersr

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This is what I really want to do. Anyone have plans for one using 110 and being very basic and cheap? I have a 10 gal cooler or a 5 gal SS kettle I could use. Any thoughts on which would be best?

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Cpt_Kirks

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The 10 gallon cooler. You need more than 5 gallons available.

BrewBarron

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watersr,

Check out my Hybrid Brew Rig in my signature. Make sure to click on Evilgnome6's link at the bottom of the thread. Great plans to make a 110 system on the cheap.

AiredAle,

Any details on your level switch? I've burned out one element and almost lost another. Sounds like good insurance.

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Walker

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I know the question wasn't directed at me, but here is the float switch I use:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Water-Liquid-Level-Float-Stainless-Steel-Switch-Sensor-/260817815936?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb9f4 0980

I picked that one after *almost* buying a plastic one that was 3x the price. I run the SSR control signal from the PID through that thing before connecting to the SSR.

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BrewBarron

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Thanks Walker,

I'll have to see if that is going to work in my cooler. I'm sure it will, just have to decide if I want to drill another hole in it. Nice price though.

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Cpt_Kirks

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I've been eyeballing those switches in case I want to add a Grant to my rig. I'm always afraid to walk away when the pump is running, in case the flow gets stuck.

kevink

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Hey Walker,

What's the thread size on that thing? I assume it's not pipe thread, right? I'm wondering how it could be used in a non-weldless configuration. Is the first nut (the one closer to the float) permanently attached or can it spin up and down the threads, too?

Walker

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The threaded post on there isn't long enough to go all the way through the insulated double wall of a cooler. You would have to cut away a piece of the outer shell and insulation in order to install in through just the inner wall of the thing.


I am not sure what the exact type/size of threading is, but I know that it's not pipe threaded. The hex shaped piece closest to the float is fixed in place and does not move. I think I had to drill an 1/4" hole in the kettle for it. I don't remember specifically.... I just drilled it out a bit at a time until the post fit through the hole.

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kevink

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Does the hex look like its welded to the tube or just pressed on? I'm wondering if it's possible for fluid to get between the two.

Thanks!

kpr121

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I have a 2000W element in a 5 gallon pot. It works for normal 5 gallon batches if you increase your mash water/grist ratio and/or do a double batch sparge. Since going to 10 gallons, I use it to heat the strike water (usually do not need more than 5 gallons) and also as supplement hot water if I need to adjust mash temp, or to do a mashout. The rest of the sparge is heated in my BK, drained into a bucket until sparge time.

Its definitely a juggling act, so I would recommend going with 10 gallons to begin with. I will probably move to a sankey eHLT at some point, probably when I can find someone who wants to buy the 5 gallon one off me. I originally bought the 5 gallon pot thinking I would never do anything other than partial boils. Now that the sickness has taken hold, I’m looking to do the biggest batches I can physically manage.

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