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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Diagram Critique - My "Brutus 20-10"
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Old 11-10-2011, 05:11 PM   #11
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I didn't pay much attention to that part of your circuit. You are correct. Those are relays. I cant see the circuit so well on my phone but have you planned for fuses?

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Old 11-10-2011, 05:44 PM   #12
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No fuses in there....I'm afraid to complicate the wiring even more, honestly. If I did put em in, I figure I'd want 5 amp for the pump, 10 amp for the aux, 15 amp for the 120V RIMS, 30 amp for the 240V BK element, and 1 amp for the relays, PID, etc?

Fast blow or slow blow? I don't really know what those mean...

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Old 11-10-2011, 07:00 PM   #13
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You are feeding from a 30a breaker right? If so, your element wiring should be #10 and that is protected by the breaker. If you want to use smaller wire for the rest of the circuit fuse it down. I use #14 with a 15a fuse.

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Old 11-10-2011, 08:45 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
You are feeding from a 30a breaker right? If so, your element wiring should be #10 and that is protected by the breaker. If you want to use smaller wire for the rest of the circuit fuse it down. I use #14 with a 15a fuse.
That was my plan. 30A breaker going to the dryer outlet. dryer cord from outlet to spa panel. 6 AWG from spa panel to control panel. 10 AWG inside the panel for the BK element, (or maybe 6 AWG if I can make it work....I have a bunch of 6/3 wire lying around, which is why I'm going to use it). 14 AWG for all 120V <15 amp stuff. That makes sense, I only have to fuse the 120V after I split off the legs for the 240V element, so I only need to fuse at the beginning.

Updated image again. Added a master power off switch and DPST relay at the tippy top. Split off the 240V element first, then run the E-Stop circuit, (which will most likely be with 14AWG, but the resistors are my fuses, don't like having actual fuses in my e-stop circuit, more points of failure there), then I hit a 15A fuse. After the 15A fuse, everything's 14AWG, except SSR control and buzzer wire. Buzzer wire will most likely be 18 or 22 AWG, but it runs 120V still, so it's fused down to 1A. SSR control is 8V DC, and I'm not worried about fusing that.

Click for big.

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Old 11-10-2011, 10:47 PM   #15
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I would tie the control wiring for the bk element relay in after the 15a fuse also. Your toggle switches should be rated 15a 120v right?

Sorry, it's difficult to see on my phone.

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Old 11-11-2011, 01:09 AM   #16
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I would tie the control wiring for the bk element relay in after the 15a fuse also. Your toggle switches should be rated 15a 120v right?

Sorry, it's difficult to see on my phone.
Yeah, I was hesitant to tie in that wiring, simply because it made my diagram messier.....I figured I'd either make it out of 6 awg or run 14 awg and put it after the fuse....I was worried my diagram was getting too complicated to understand though, I have crap going everywhere now! I liked the idea of each latching relay running off the same power going through the relay, but with the different gauge wire I have to make it a bit less modular, I suppose.

Switches are all at least 15A/120V, some quite a bit more.
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Old 11-11-2011, 02:40 PM   #17
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OK. So I can't figure out how I'd run control wiring for the BK from after the 15A fuse. The problem is the latching relay circuit:



I COULD run 14AWG wire for the NO "on" switch from after the 15A fuse, no problem. BUT, once the relay latches, power HAS to come from the 120V, 30A leg on the output side of the relay to maintain coil power to keep the relay latched. What I'm saying is, the part of the circuit that runs through the NC "off" switch has to be coming from a line that has 30A service.

I suppose I could use 14 AWG wire for that circuit, through the NC "off" switch, and put a 15A fuse in there as well, but I think that would be more hassle than just running 10 AWG wire for the whole control circuit. The NO and NC switches are only rated 130V 6.5A though!! and say they only take a max of 14AWG wire. Sh!t.

So I guess, for the control circuits, I need 5A fuses before EACH switch to be fully protected? Bugger, that's 4 extra fuses, and a lot of extra wiring....

It would have to look like this then?

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My Kegerator goes offroading!
My Coors Home Draft dispenser for boating/beering on the go.
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