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Old 11-09-2011, 01:47 PM   #1
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Default Diagram Critique - My "Brutus 20-10"

Here's my plan for my electric upgrade. Please give me any and all feedback. The system will be a 10 gallon model of jKarps's Countertop Brutus 20, sort of, with the addition of a RIMS tube. 1 BK/HLT (15 gal keggle), 1 MLT (15 gal cooler), 1 pump.

The thing I'm most proud of is the On/Off circuit for the RIMS and BK elements. Push the "on" momentary NO switch to activate the relay circuit and the elements go live. Push the "off" momentary NC switch to deactivate the relay circuit and the elements. When power is cut, the relays open automatically, so the design "fails safe", and also "starts safe", since there's no way the relays can be left on when power is cut, then run dry when power is restored. I thought this was a real novel design, until I realized all red pushbutton momentary switches were NC, and all green ones were NO. Obviously I wasn't the first with this idea. Here's the switches from AD: Red, Green.

Here's the design - click to embiggen: EDIT: Newest Diagram now in Post 14!



Thoughts? Suggestions?

(oh, diagram was made in something called TinyCAD. It's my favorite so far for wiring diagrams - super easy to use, not so much of a huge emphasis on PCB diagrams like so many wiring programs)

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Old 11-09-2011, 02:05 PM   #2
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Check your power path on the 2 LEDs (RIMs off & BK off switch paths). It needs to be changed as the LEDs are in series with the relay coils.

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Old 11-09-2011, 02:49 PM   #3
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Thanks for looking P-J.

EDIT: OH! I might understand. Because the LEDs are in series, and because LEDs are high resistance and therefore low current flow, having them in series might not pass enough current through to keep the coil actuated. Is this what you're saying? If so, ignore what I typed below!

I think that's what I want? I want the LEDs to light up when the relays close...when the relays are open, they should be unpowered, (first picture below, grey lines are unpowered). When the relays are closed by the NO contact, and then the NO switch is released, the situation, as I understand it, becomes the second image below. (I took the NO switch out of the diagram in the second image for clarity....it will be OPEN, so no power through it)



To be clear, I don't want the LEDs to flash as the SSR switches the heater on, I want the LEDs on constantly whenever there is power supplied to the SSRs, (when they are live). Does this work?

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Reason: Epiphany.
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:01 PM   #4
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OK, P-J, if I understood you, you're saying this is better? (Click for bigger)

Edit: Newest pic is in Post 14

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Old 11-09-2011, 03:06 PM   #5
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Looks nice. I like the latching relays. I used a bunch in my HLT panel.

Are you just using an LED or a 120V LED indicator lamp? With just an LED you need to set your current with a resistor and a few more components are needed to wire an LED to 120VAC. The series circuit with the relay coil could work I guess but I would parallel the LED somehow.

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Old 11-09-2011, 03:10 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
Looks nice. I like the latching relays. I used a bunch in my HLT panel.

Are you just using an LED or a 120V LED indicator lamp? With just an LED you need to set your current with a resistor and a few more components are needed to wire an LED to 120VAC. The series circuit with the relay coil could work I guess but I would parallel the LED somehow.
Ooops, I misspoke. I use these currently on my panel, I like em because they are small, (not a fan of the 22mm indicators).

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102794

120V neon lamp, whatever that is.
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Old 11-09-2011, 03:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortyjacobs View Post
Ooops, I misspoke. I use these currently on my panel, I like em because they are small, (not a fan of the 22mm indicators).

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102794

120V neon lamp, whatever that is.
I'd say your revision looks good then. I agree the big lamps are a bit chunky on a small panel.
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Old 11-10-2011, 05:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortyjacobs View Post
OK, P-J, if I understood you, you're saying this is better? (Click for bigger)
Absolutely excellent.!

Good job - and I'm glad that you understood the info I was trying to point out.

Thank you!

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Old 11-10-2011, 02:33 PM   #9
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Thank you,and lschaivo! I never would have caught the LED thing - glad you saved me a lot of frustration!

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Old 11-10-2011, 03:35 PM   #10
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Oops. One more mistake. For some reason, I was thinking of the alarm relay outputs as power outputs, not relay contacts. I was thinking of them like I think of the SSR outs, where they have a hot and a neutral. They are relays, not outlets, so I need to supply hot voltage to one side of the relays, and connect the other half of the speaker buzzer to NEUTRAL....updated my picture (click for big):

Edit: Newest diagram in Post 14

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My Coors Home Draft dispenser for boating/beering on the go.
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