New Giveaway - Wort Monster Conical Fermenter!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Designing a Bare Bones Electric Brewing System (Diagrams inside)




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-10-2012, 08:01 PM   #21
killsurfcity
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 158
Liked 12 Times on 8 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

Finally got all of my components together, and I'm getting ready for the build. Any good resources out there on how to build these things? I was looking into having an electrician do it, but i'm having trouble finding one.



__________________
killsurfcity is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-10-2012, 08:46 PM   #22
jCOSbrew
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 580
Liked 33 Times on 30 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

Check out http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ for very detailed step-by-step instructions.



__________________
jCOSbrew is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-11-2012, 02:03 PM   #23
ScubaSteve
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
ScubaSteve's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: New Bern, NC
Posts: 3,669
Liked 60 Times on 45 Posts
Likes Given: 10

Default

You're right on track. This is the process I'll be using, albeit a bit smaller. A couple things...the 5500w elements will pull 30A each. If you want to run 2, you're gonna need 60A total. Rather than a single high amp line, it's easier to control 2 smaller ones. Be sure you're wiring is 10AWG and that your breakers can handle 30A. You will only need both elements for getting to temp, then the single one can handle the boil. You will want insulation on everything.

Chilling may be an issue too. Did I miss what kind of chiller you're using? An IC becomes impractical at this size. CFC is probably best....plates can clog and you don't want to fiddle with a clogged filter sitting under 30 gallons of boiling wort!

Lastly, get rid of the HDPE grant and go to stainless. You don't want plasticky off flavors ruining 30+ gallons of beer. Besides that, it gets soft and who knows what will happen with that much hot wort pressing against the sides. You can get away with a smaller grant since it's not the full volume....a sanke (or two) might work in a pinch.

ScubaSteve is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-11-2012, 02:30 PM   #24
duckdogs
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
duckdogs's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Meridian, Idaho
Posts: 154
Liked 6 Times on 5 Posts
Likes Given: 11

Default

Little late but this is a Diagram P-J drew up for my system that's the same size as the OP.



__________________

PLEASE NOTE THAT DUE TO THE RISING COST IN AMMO PRICES I WILL NO LONGER BE FIRING A WARNING SHOT.

"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rapidly promoted by mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a piece of sh@t by the clean end."

duckdogs is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-11-2012, 07:55 PM   #25
killsurfcity
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 158
Liked 12 Times on 8 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve View Post
You're right on track. This is the process I'll be using, albeit a bit smaller. A couple things...the 5500w elements will pull 30A each. If you want to run 2, you're gonna need 60A total. Rather than a single high amp line, it's easier to control 2 smaller ones.
Yeah, got 2 50A lines put in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve View Post
Be sure you're wiring is 10AWG and that your breakers can handle 30A.
Good to know, thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve View Post
Chilling may be an issue too. Did I miss what kind of chiller you're using? An IC becomes impractical at this size. CFC is probably best....plates can clog and you don't want to fiddle with a clogged filter sitting under 30 gallons of boiling wort!
So, due to trying to do this on a budget, we decided to eliminate HERMS at least until we decide we need it. So there's no coil in the BK, and no device to maintain mash temp. We're going to rely on insulation and thermal mass to maintain temp. For chilling, CFC. Based on my research, nothing else is going to be as effective for the price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve View Post
Lastly, get rid of the HDPE grant and go to stainless. You don't want plasticky off flavors ruining 30+ gallons of beer. Besides that, it gets soft and who knows what will happen with that much hot wort pressing against the sides. You can get away with a smaller grant since it's not the full volume....a sanke (or two) might work in a pinch.
Since the initial drawings were done, we've acquired an additional 3 stainless 55g drums. So now everything is stainless. And I'm thinking of thermal wrapping and wood cladding everything, to make the best use of energy/maintain temps better.
__________________
killsurfcity is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-11-2012, 08:02 PM   #26
killsurfcity
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 158
Liked 12 Times on 8 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by duckdogs View Post
Little late but this is a Diagram P-J drew up for my system that's the same size as the OP.
Thanks, but I do have a diagram from P-J (I think on pg. 2) . Mine is more minimal than yours, as our "HLT" does not have any elements in it. We're just going to pump hot water from the BK to the HLT for sparge. Once we know what the temp drop is over time, we should be able to ensure the water in the HLT is always hot enough.

I've built loads of stuff from schematics before (varying degrees of success of course), but never with high power stuff, which is why I'm nervous. I also want to avoid making dumb noob component layout mistakes, because I'm new to this kind of building.
__________________
killsurfcity is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-11-2012, 09:37 PM   #27
jeffmeh
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jeffmeh's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,749
Liked 123 Times on 105 Posts
Likes Given: 15

Default

If you have 50a breakers, 10 ga wire is not sufficient. I believe you need to run 6 ga wire. The prior comment was that if you used two 30a breakers (rather than one 60a), each of those could use 10 ga wire.

__________________
jeffmeh is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-11-2012, 11:09 PM   #28
killsurfcity
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 158
Liked 12 Times on 8 Posts
Likes Given: 6

Default

ok, thanks. i need to verify exactly what the service is before building then i guess. it's in a rented space and the landlord set it up. hopefully it will be usable as is.



__________________
killsurfcity is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
planning an electric build, can we sticky pj's diagrams? boswell Electric Brewing 13 08-18-2013 11:31 PM
Need help designing eKettle system tator2k Electric Brewing 0 01-10-2012 06:48 PM
Need Help Simple 10Gal Electric Brewing System mamerong Electric Brewing 2 11-10-2011 03:09 AM
Designing my HERMS system boist Electric Brewing 6 10-12-2011 08:33 PM
My electric system ver 6 missing link Electric Brewing 3 09-09-2011 04:33 AM