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Old 11-11-2010, 04:11 PM   #11
MonkeyWrench
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You're right SS. I will be editing the original picture tonight to represent SSRs, then re-drawing some items.

I will look into adding a contactor to cut total power to the elements as a final say as well.

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Old 11-11-2010, 05:24 PM   #12
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This is why I don't mess with anything electrical! Way over my head.

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Old 11-11-2010, 08:48 PM   #13
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Lol...ya, if it weren't for this board and people who know what they are doing, this project wouldn't get off the ground. I do have a friend who is an electrician, I plan to have him check over my work as well to make sure its safe.

I like stuff like this. It has always interested me. I was pretty close to going to ITT Tech for their EE program.

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Old 11-13-2010, 01:29 AM   #14
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Made some changes. Incorporated contactors for both elements as a final say safety.

I split the 2 RIMS elements into separate switched 120/N legs. As shown, each leg has it's own switched SPDT relay, however, I may just wire it with a single DPDT relay that would function the same. I haven't sourced all parts, so cost will be a factor.

Also added was the momentary power button and relay.

The switch that controls the relays that select 120/240 for the RIMS elements also controls the relay that selects 120/240 for the kettle. This will allow me to run the kettle in 120v mode while sparging without drawing too many amps. Sure I could simplify by having my RIMS contactor control switch also double as an lock out for the kettle when the RIMS is running, but I imagine I will be able to save some time heating (or maintaining) my runnings....maybe not???

My understanding of a 555 timer PWM board is that it needs to run on low voltage, but it seems like I've seen otherwise. Do I need that 12v transformer at all? Can I run it off of 120v? That would also simplify.

Also, sorry it's not of great quality, I'm by no means a professional.

Thanks!!!
Steve

rims-v1.3.jpg  
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Old 11-13-2010, 06:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedLight_Brewing View Post
Made some changes. Incorporated contactors for both elements as a final say safety.
Steve, you are doing a lot of stuff that I'm also planning to do, for example the interlocks preventing all elements to run at high power. You are a bit farther along than I because I don't have a schematic yet.

I get a little lost trying to figure out what you are trying to do. Perhaps having consumed several pints of 7% abv brown ale has something to do with it. I can see one thing though that is not going to work. The indicator lamps, for example the power-on lamp, cannot be connected in series with the contactor/relay coil, they should be connected in parallel with the coil.

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My understanding of a 555 timer PWM board is that it needs to run on low voltage, but it seems like I've seen otherwise. Do I need that 12v transformer at all? Can I run it off of 120v? That would also simplify.
It is not going to like 120VAC, guaranteed. The 555 will need something like 12VDC or less. I am not familiar with the details of this particular board, but I have used several 555 timers over the years and they are running from some low voltage DC, not AC.
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Old 11-13-2010, 03:25 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quaffer View Post
Steve, you are doing a lot of stuff that I'm also planning to do, for example the interlocks preventing all elements to run at high power. You are a bit farther along than I because I don't have a schematic yet.

I get a little lost trying to figure out what you are trying to do. Perhaps having consumed several pints of 7% abv brown ale has something to do with it. I can see one thing though that is not going to work. The indicator lamps, for example the power-on lamp, cannot be connected in series with the contactor/relay coil, they should be connected in parallel with the coil.

It is not going to like 120VAC, guaranteed. The 555 will need something like 12VDC or less. I am not familiar with the details of this particular board, but I have used several 555 timers over the years and they are running from some low voltage DC, not AC.
After drawing this up, I see how complicated I've designed it. There are definitely areas where I can simplify.

I didn't know that about the lamps, are you talking about all of them not being able to be run in series? Guess I need to research 120 some more, I know in 12v apps, it would work. However, thinking about actually wiring the power on lamp, I would have to run a wire from the switches down off the door, to the relay, then back onto the door for the lamp. I will have to update that.

I'll have to also look at the 555 circuit. I thought they were only low voltage as well. With that 12v transformer, I could run all of my switches 12v and all of the relays/contactors could have a 12v coil. this would make the swap to BCS/Brewtroller easier if I ever went that route in the future.
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Old 11-13-2010, 05:06 PM   #17
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I didn't know that about the lamps, are you talking about all of them not being able to be run in series? Guess I need to research 120 some more, I know in 12v apps, it would work.
Yes, had this been a DC system and the voltage was slightly high, say 14V, it would indeed work to have plain LEDs in series with the coils. I have done that, but you would have to check that the coil current is in a range usable by the LED. 120V AC lamps, even those made with LEDs, are made to run with the full system voltage so they need to be connected in parallel.
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