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Old 11-07-2011, 10:38 PM   #11
Bensiff
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Thanks again everyone, that is a lot of information for someone with zero electric brewing knowledge to digest. I'd like to be able to run mashes up fast enough that I'm not lingering in some form of brewing limbo waiting to hit my next step. I suppose if I could mirror Dan Gordon's times given in this months Zymurgy (sorry at work so I don't have that handy), I'd be perfectly happy. So, I suppose now I need to figure out if a March 809 pushing through a 2k element will do the trick.

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Old 11-11-2011, 05:36 AM   #12
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I've got a keggle MLT, 1 1/2" Stainless RIMs, 4500 Watt Ele, and a LG 3 Series pump. I can crank up the element up to 100% on my BCS with full flow on my LG with no problems. If I recall properly I was seeing 1 deg/min incease in temp on a 5 gal batch. Thats also with a thin mash of roughly 3qt per lb grain. My MLT and RIMs tubes are not insulated and I don't use a lid on my MLT.

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Old 11-11-2011, 02:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jusware View Post
I've got a keggle MLT, 1 1/2" Stainless RIMs, 4500 Watt Ele, and a LG 3 Series pump. I can crank up the element up to 100% on my BCS with full flow on my LG with no problems. If I recall properly I was seeing 1 deg/min incease in temp on a 5 gal batch. Thats also with a thin mash of roughly 3qt per lb grain. My MLT and RIMs tubes are not insulated and I don't use a lid on my MLT.
When you have mash at 154 degrees and you go to mash out, the 4500W of power does not boil the wort in the tube? I can go full 100% of 4500W of power only at much lower temps, and have a virtual garden hose rate of flow in my mash with my 809HS pump, 1.5" tri-clover style RIMS. (queue the thermodynamics guy to see the gal/min required to heat 154 to 212 with 4500W of power, and take about 120-150% of that to eliminate spot boiling... that would be the rate of flow required, and as you get closer to boiling, it gets exponentially faster)

what model element do you have (or total running length of element)

I had actually thought making some sort of copper heat sink to have attached to the elements so I could run at higher power.. I believe my best idea was thin copper fins, held in place lightly by small copper wire, then take to an electroplater and have them lay on the copper onto fuse it all together... short of spiral fins, that would be really, really ULWD
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Old 11-12-2011, 05:05 PM   #14
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I have the camco ULWD 4500 Watt element. I have no clue how long it is. When I first built my system and was running my first batches I had a problem with serious compaction due to the pump. I closed the valve at the back end of the pump to restrict flow. I ended up boiling liquid in my RIMs tube. The next batch I started using rice hulls and now run will the valve wide open. I have not had any issues with boiling since. From what I've seen online by comparisons and friends that have March Pumps, the LG have a higher flow rate. March has a max of 7.2 and the LG is 12.5 according to their site. I measured pretty close to 12 on mine with 3 ft of rise on the output. I also built a 1/2" dip tube to my false bottom and use full bore fittings. I've tried to not constrict the flow. I'd like to bump up my valve/dip tube up to 3/4" to match my pump inlet, but I'm not sure if that would help with flow. May help with priming, but that's kinda mute point with the LGs.

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Old 11-12-2011, 05:17 PM   #15
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I've used a 2000w heat stick for this. It's pretty slow with 6 gallons of water without the stove burner to help it out. I don't think it would be enough power for over 10 gallons for step mashes. I prefer using it along with the stove to get my decoctions up to boiling faster. Otherwise, I won't do a step mash.

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Old 12-09-2011, 02:46 AM   #16
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Ok, so from what I have read, I'd really need to go to a 3500-4500 RIMS for step mashing a 10 gallon brew. Tossing out my original intent to go 110v and accepting a 220v reality, would a 4500 watt low density element run just fine without risking scorching using normal mash ratio (1.25-1.5qt/lb) or would that require a bunch of rice hulls to avoid compaction on a high flow rate?

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Old 12-09-2011, 03:54 AM   #17
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I do the step mashing with direct steam injection into the wort at 1 Gpm flow with 70 degree temperature rise at maximum steam generation output, which is developed by LP burning flash boiler with PLC control of water and gas flows. Equivalent electrical power needed would be in the 10Kw range, beyond safe operating load for most residential power panels with household loads running.

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Old 12-10-2011, 04:22 PM   #18
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3800-4500W are just fine for 10 gallons... you could do more, but unless you are way undersized, You want a control of some sort, not just manually turning on and off..... PWM with a PID or other PWM setup, driving your SSR... this lets you dial back if case you encounter spot boiling in the tube.

I also suggest the only restriction be placed after the heating element, and you apply restriction to slow the flow and keep from compacting mash. This keeps assists in preventing spot boiling by increasing the pressure of the liquid in the tube. Once you have this flow rate that you feel will not compact your mash, you apply heat with the element making sure you do not have any noticeable (audible boiling noise or shaking of hoses) and you are set... after a few times you get comfortable with your settings..

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