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Old 09-02-2011, 04:54 PM   #11
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Old 09-02-2011, 04:56 PM   #12
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Old 09-02-2011, 04:57 PM   #13
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Well it was a work intensive and somewhat frustrating build but it's about finished! I've done 2 brews on this system and it's just ridiculous how fast and easy this electric setup makes brewing. (project was frustrating mostly because the home depot guy sold me the 10/14 gauge stiff wire used to wire houses instead of the flexible wire used in electronics projects.... ugh what a nightmare).

Here are some pics of the finished project (just an electrical retrofit... the 3 keggle herms was already in use prior).

Pics of the finished control box. Operates 2 (only 1 active at a time) 5500W camco ripp ulwd elements and 2x (simultaneous) march 809/120v devices from a 30amp 240v dryer plug.



The brewery (always a build in progress)





Overall I love it! Thanks so much to PJ and Kal for inspiration and guidance on this thing.

One issue though... I followed that last wiring diagram and I'm having an issue with the PID. Maybe I havent calibrated it correctly, but it seems like no matter what output% I set in manual mode for the BK... that the boil is 100% power anyway. Also, in auto mode when I set 169 deg F, the HLT heats to that level and just keeps heating. I have heard others talk of these issues with their Auber PID as well... so maybe theres a solution out there I just havent seen it. Anyone know whats up?

Thanks!

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Old 09-02-2011, 05:50 PM   #14
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You need to program the PID:

Quote:
4.2.3 Manual/Automatic mode switch
Bumpless switching between PID mode and Manual mode can be performed
by pressing the A/M key. The A-M LED will light up when the controller is in
Manual mode. In Manual mode, the output amplitude can be increased or
decreased by pressing ▲ and ▼(display mode 2).
Please note that manual control is initially disabled (A/M=2). To activate
the manual control, set A/M=0 or 1.
From the Auber Instruments PID manual

Please take a look at the manual.

BTW, your rig looks great!
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Old 09-02-2011, 06:33 PM   #15
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Triple post

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Old 09-02-2011, 06:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O'Haggerty View Post
Triple post
Just delete the 2 bad ones.
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:19 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
You need to program the PID:



From the Auber Instruments PID manual

Please take a look at the manual.

BTW, your rig looks great!
Thanks! I like it. And btw, I had read those sections and enabled manual by setting A=0 and A=1. Still no regulating of current... it's like the SSR is stuck closed. I can't find any other programming or calibration hints.
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Old 09-03-2011, 01:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O'Haggerty View Post
Thanks! I like it. And btw, I had read those sections and enabled manual by setting A=0 and A=1. Still no regulating of current... it's like the SSR is stuck closed. I can't find any other programming or calibration hints.
Try removing one of the PID to SSR control wires and see what happens. If the element still heats then for sure the SSR has failed.
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:30 AM   #19
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O'Haggerty,

Have you figured out what went wrong and resolved it? I'd really like to know.

P-J

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Old 09-23-2011, 03:47 AM   #20
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I got a new SSR with new heatsink... and also tweaked settings some more. It's working now.... but I'm not sure which was the culprit.

Point is... it's working flawlessly and I absolutely love the temp hold feature. Now I just need to make an app from my android phone to boot up my strike water on my way home and have it ready 30 minutes later when I get there....

Thanks again for your help PJ... this system is turning a lot of heads now... and I'm actually craving and loving brewing again... something I had lost for a while.

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