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Old 09-07-2012, 11:47 PM   #1
PorterBoy
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Default Control Panel Help.

So i have been kicking around the idea of making an Electric setup. I have been looking around at other peoples setups and what they have used, i just need to find a wiring diagram that fits my setup. I think i have what i want to use with mine. Here is what i have thought about. Suggestions please!! I will be using a RIMS tube. I want to have an element in each the HLT and BK. I will have 2 chugger pumps. A PID for the BK,RIMS, and HLT. A master key selector switch. I am wanting to be able to have all this to run on 240V? I want to be able to run my rims element an my HLT element at the same time as well as a pump for my RIMS and the option to kick the Second pump on if need be. I had a buddy throw together a drawing to help me get an idea of what i was looking at. Anyone have any suggestions

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Old 09-08-2012, 01:48 PM   #2
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First - read the sticky - Electrical Primer for Brewers. It has a TON of information in the first post that helps you decide how much power you'll need.

How big are your batches, do you want the ability to brew back to back batches, and how much power do you have access to? You definitely want 240v.

If you're brewing 10-12 gallon batches you can use either a 4500w or 5500w elements for your HLT and BK. A 5500W element at 240V will draw 22.9A. A 4500W element at 240V will draw 18.75A.
For your RIMs tube, consider using a 1500w/240v element. That will draw 8.33A. Pumps usually draw about 1 amp or so to start, then something less than that after they start.

Knowing this you can piece together what you want and figure how much power you need.

If doing single batches you won't need to fire both kettles at the same time so your power requirements change. From the listing below determine which elements you want then add up the amperages then add about 20% more for a safety margin. i.e. if I have a 50A circuit, I wouldn't want to draw over 46A to stay within my safety margin. There are raging debates regarding the percentage use of a circuit, but personally I'd rather have the safety margin than run the risk of getting shocked.

5500W/240V=22.92A
4500W/240V=18.75A
2000W/240V=8.33A
1500W/240V=6.25A

With 30A available power you could run 4500W elements in your kettles, one at a time, plus a 1500W element in your RIMS tube, plus pumps.
With 50A available power you could run 4500W elements in your kettles, both at the same time, plus a 2000W element in the RIMS tube, plus pumps or
run 5500W elements, one at a time, with the 2000W element in the RIMS plus pumps.
With 60A available power you could run 5500W elements in your kettles, both at the same time, pluse a 2000W RIMS elements and pumps.

You get the idea. How much power do you have available to you?

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Old 09-09-2012, 08:50 PM   #3
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I have read the sticky and many others as thats where i have got most of the information so far, i am just not real sure on what will work with the setup i want. We will be doing this in an unfinished basement so i can run whatever Amp service i need to the brew area be it 30A or 50A. I have a single tier 3 keg system. I plan on doing 10 gal batches. I would like the option to do back to back if i needed but mainly i will just be running the HLT Element and the Rims element and rims pump then switching over to the BK Element once im done mashing.

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Old 09-10-2012, 01:06 AM   #4
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Given what you have, where you're brewing, etc, it seems to me that it now comes down to cost. Price components for both 50A and 60A. I don't think the single component cost difference is very much different, but once you price everything out, that could end up being quite a bit different. If you think you'll ever do back to back brewing, then you'll need the power and you have to plan for that. If not, then you can go with the 50A components. I have 50A and use 4500W elements. I'm very happy with that arrangement and I did not have to buy a new breaker for my main breaker panel.

Plan to spend a decent amount of time thinking it through. Do you have a schematic? P-J had one already made up for me and I'm pretty sure he has one that will work for you. Let that be your guide for the components you need. If you can, use a spreadsheet to keep track of what you need, what you have, and your costs (if you wanna). It will help you keep your sanity. Ask for help if you need it. Several people have gone through this already and are more than willing to share.

Good luck, and keep us posted.
Paul

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Old 09-12-2012, 07:09 PM   #5
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Well while browsing I came across this diagram http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a13-RIMS-SYL-2352-4500w.jpg and it looks kinda about what im shooting for. I dont want the Estop or the PID Power Switch. I have decided to just go with an Element in the HLT and use my burner for the BK as of now, other than that this looks good I think. We will wire a 50A service somewhere close to our setup. Also is everything electrical i need pictured in the Diagram? Does this diagram use SSR's? Also everything i buy needs to be for 240V correct? Im not sure on the parts to buy yet. I am going to go with this element though http://bostonheatingsupply.com/sp10869gl.aspx. Other than that i dont know what to buy. I want to get started brewing soon so im just going to wire up the box and only use the RIMS tube for now until i can finish making my Other element setups. What do you think?

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Old 09-12-2012, 08:19 PM   #6
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PorterBoy,

You have a lot of options setting up your brewery. I suggest that you try and decide what your final plan is going to be. If it is according to the diagram you linked and need changes to it, please let me know.

Another thought: Choose your RIMS setup carefully. I hope you do not try and cheap it out by using pipe fittings. IMHO: that --- Nevermind..

I have way too many very strong opinions and need to temper my thoughts. Sorry... So sorry...


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Old 09-12-2012, 08:41 PM   #7
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Please by all means let me her the opinions. Im open to all info. What do you mean by cheap it out by using fittings?

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Old 09-12-2012, 09:39 PM   #8
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The RIMS tube I suggest: 2" Tri Clover Tri Clamp RIMS Tube
And the Element adapter fitting: 2" Tri Clover X 1" NPS Element Adapter

IMHO: Using pipe fittings to 'try' and set it up by piecing it together is a serious problem loaded with issues that are difficult to solve. The very first issue is there will be pipe threads exposed to the wort path that will be VERY difficult to clean and sanitize. There are lots more issues.

The Tri Clover set up was originally designed for the milk industry. Sanitization, Sanitization. ++.

P-J.

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Old 09-13-2012, 01:34 AM   #9
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I have settled on going with 50A available power and plan to run 4500W elements in the Boil and HLT kettles,plus a 2000W element in the RIMS tube and be powering one pump. Sorry P-J but i did cheap out the RIMS...JUST for now though. I have access to really cheap fittings and it cost me almost nothing for them. Ill have more in the elmenent then the fittings id say.. I had allready had that page for the Tri clamp RIMS Bookmarked as once i get going i am wanting to go to the Tri-clamp style on everything. Almost everything i have so far was either gave to me or has been what i have had lying around. As far as the diagram i posted goes, does it look like everything is the way it should be or will i need to change anything? The only thing i would want to change would be to add a Second pump to the setup. I found this diagram that has the 2nd switch for the pump. But why the additon of the Contactors? http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a12-Yambor44-RIMs-SYL-2352-4500w.jpg

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Old 09-13-2012, 03:55 AM   #10
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Don't let that worry you Porterboy. I've got over 20 brews on mine and it's been fine so far. I do suggest running hot PBW (> 120*F) through it for about 20-30 min to clean it up. This is easily done while the boil is going on.

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