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Old 05-18-2011, 04:27 AM   #1
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Default Control Panel Design

I'm working on putting together a single-vessel electric BIAB/RIMS brew system. Of course, here I am thinking I'm all original with this idea and come to find that there are already several people using systems similar to this. I've got a Bayou Classic 62qt stock pot (with steamer basket) and am hoping to eventually get it all outfitted with tri-clamp fittings. That's a topic for another post though. For now, I'm just working on getting a control panel designed and built. I'm definitely not breaking any new ground here, but I thought I'd post up my control panel mockup, schematic and parts list for comment and critique.


Parts:
1/16 DIN PID Temperature Controller (SSR control output) (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=3)
40A SSR w/ Heatsink (http://cgi.ebay.com/Solid-State-Rela...-/370412367790)
30A Ground Fault Interrupt with Male Plug GFI Cord (http://www.friesenelectric.com/produ...s.aspx?ID=2943)
Enclosure-8X8X6 (http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...Code=ENC-8X8X6)
NEMA L6-30 Male Plug for Element (http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...tCode=L6%2D30P)
NEMA L6-30 Female Receptacle for Element (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7162k39/)
NEMA L5-15 Male Plug for Pump (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7162K29/)
NEMA L5-15 Female Receptacle for Pump (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7162K77/)
Panel mount connector for RTD sensor (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=118)
Flashing Buzzer, 110 or 240V AC. 22 mm (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=215)
2 Position Maintained Selector Switch for Alarm (http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...=PBC-SS22PMA-2)
Green Illuminated Selector Switch for Main Power (http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...22PMA-I2G-120V)
White Illuminated Selector Switch for Pump (http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...2XPMA-I2W-120V)
Red Illuminated Selector Switch for Element (http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...2XPMA-I2R-120V)
Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil (http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...CN-PBC302-120V)
5-circuit Terminal Block 30A (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7527K85/)
3-circuit Terminal Block 30A x3 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7527K83/)
Terminal Block Jumpers (Pack of 25) (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7527K99/)
1/4" Diameter Glass-Tube Fuse 3AG, Fast Acting, 250 VAC, 7 Amp (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7085K45/)
1/4" Diameter Glass-Tube Fuse 3AG, Fast Acting, 250 VAC, 1/2 Amp (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7085K42/)
1/4" Diameter Glass-Tube Fuse 3AG, Fast Acting, 250 VAC, 3 Amp (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7085K39/)
1/4" Diameter Glass-Tube Fuse 3AG, Time Delay, 250 VAC, 2 Amp (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7085K89/)
Fuse Block for 1/4" Diameter X 1-1/4" L Fuse 2 Poles x2 (http://www.mcmaster.com/#7687K14/)

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Old 05-18-2011, 06:14 AM   #2
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It looks fine, although two things you may want to consider:

E-Stop button, a simple circuit would be a a NO pushbutton that connects a small fuse and resistor to ground causing the GFCI to trip (assuming you have gfci )

You also may want a contactor in between the element and switch, I dont think you want 23A running through that switch...

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Old 05-18-2011, 01:48 PM   #3
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It looks fine, although two things you may want to consider:

E-Stop button, a simple circuit would be a a NO pushbutton that connects a small fuse and resistor to ground causing the GFCI to trip (assuming you have gfci )

You also may want a contactor in between the element and switch, I dont think you want 23A running through that switch...
Good call on the element switch. I missed that one. I've updated the schematic. I split the 2-pole contactor into 2 1-poles, each controlling a hot leg. The first contactor controls the SSR/Pump Leg and it switched on/off by the main power switch, the second contactor gets it's supply before the main power switch, but the coil is in series with both the main power and element switches. I also moved my 1A fuse further back to protect all of the control logic. Is 1A sufficient for the draw of 3 Illuminated switches, alarm buzzer, 2 contactors, SSR and PID? Also, is it necessary to isolate Neutral with a contactor, or is it safe to leave it connected?

As to the E-stop button, I think my first instinct in the event of something horrible would be to yank the power cord, not go for a button on the control panel. And I can see myself bumping it and shutting everything down by mistake. I think I'm going to leave it out. I definitely have GFCI though. I've got one of those 30A copy machine cables in my parts list. Thanks for the input!
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:34 PM   #4
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Your alarms connections are not wired up right. The alarm connections are switches and not power outlets.

The one you have labeled as "AL-N" should be connected to the same thing as your "AC-HOT". When an alarm triggers, AL-N will be connected to AL-1 or AL-2, depending on which alarm fired. This will send 120V to your buzzer and then the buzzer needs a connection to neutral to complete the circuit.

A better way to think of the alarm pins as you are using then is:

AL-N is really an "alarm power in" pin
AL-2 and AL-1 are two "alarm power out" pins

Like this:

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Old 05-18-2011, 04:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fluxgame View Post
Is 1A sufficient for the draw of 3 Illuminated switches, alarm buzzer, 2 contactors, SSR and PID?
It depends on your contactors. The ones I use pull 0.5A each. If yours is like mine, then the two contactors alone are likely to blow your fuse.

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Also, is it necessary to isolate Neutral with a contactor, or is it safe to leave it connected?
It's not necessary to switch the neutral. In fact, it's generally suggested to specifically NOT switch the neutral.


One thing I don't like about this design is that the only way for you to 100% kill the voltage to your element is to shut the whole system down. Your "element" contactor will ensure that there is no heating, but it only shuts off one of the hot lines going to the element,. The other hot line (the one that feeds through the "system power" contactor) can still be live even when your "element" switch is OFF.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:48 PM   #6
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I also noticed that your parts list only contains a single 2-pole contactor, but your schematic contains two separate single-pole contactors.

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Old 05-19-2011, 04:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Your alarms connections are not wired up right.
Thanks for that. There wasn't a very clear explanation of the wiring for the alarms in the Auber documentation. That makes much more sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker
One thing I don't like about this design is that the only way for you to 100% kill the voltage to your element is to shut the whole system down. Your "element" contactor will ensure that there is no heating, but it only shuts off one of the hot lines going to the element,. The other hot line (the one that feeds through the "system power" contactor) can still be live even when your "element" switch is OFF.
I was thinking that the PID/SSR would act as the shutoff for that second leg, but I see your point. If the element switch is off, it really ought to be completely off. Any reason I can't wire things up like this?



None of the 120v electronics are particularly power hungry, so it should be fine to run them directly off of the switch, right? And I've got a fuse to further protect things should they go awry.

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Originally Posted by Walker
I also noticed that your parts list only contains a single 2-pole contactor, but your schematic contains two separate single-pole contactors.
The schematic and parts list just got a bit out of sync. I'll update the list when I get the schematic more finalized.

Thanks again for all the input! Much better to hash things out now than once I've already purchased everything...
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Old 05-19-2011, 04:07 PM   #8
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That seems fine. The [System Power] switch turns on the PID and passes power through to all of the secondary switches to individually turn on the other items.

Personally, I'd suggest putting in a secondary fuse to protect the PID better than it is in the diagram. The PID requires less than 0.5A. Fuses are cheap insurance for expensive components. My system uses something like a 0.333A fuse to protect my PID and a 2A slow-blow fuse to protect the pump.

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Old 05-21-2011, 09:19 PM   #9
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Alright, cleaned up the schematic above and added some fuses for protection of various components. Unless anyone has further suggestions or critique, I'm going to start ordering components!

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Old 05-21-2011, 10:50 PM   #10
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That E Stop idea I think was PJ's. Pretty simple and I had the same concerns about bumping into it, but I put it in anyway. If you are being lit up by 30a/240 and that yellow button is nearby, it's a heck of a lot easier to hit that then pulling out a plug. If it is just some equipment malfunction then pulling the plug is ok. In my case the plug is in a different room so couldn't do that anyway.

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