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Old 02-27-2013, 03:54 PM   #11
SpartyParty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blksabbath View Post
Simple PWM. That's a clean way to do it. Basically just turn the dial and monitor the thermometer.

1800w isn't going to get you to a boil anytime soon. I use a 1500w bucket heater in my hlt occasionally and it will get close to a boil....but it takes hours to do so.

I was not looking at buying that kettle and set up but rather build a bigger better version. I would want to use a 220v 4,500w element. I was just curious if anyone has tried this or not. For a boil kettle it just seems clean and easy. No need for a PID or a thermometer on a boil kettle if you ask me.

So it sounds like if you need/use an SSR this option is out but if no SSR is needed it might?

Thanks for the feed back
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:41 PM   #12
tyzippers
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Well, here's the thing about boiling with a 4500W element. If you opt not to use a PID and SSR or some other method of controlling the power output of the element, you're going to have quite the violent boil going on. You'll end up wasting energy and boiling off a lot more than you would expect. I guess if you can figure out a way to reduce the power of the element once you reach boil, then you should, theoretically, be able to do what you're thinking.

If brewers use a PID on their boil kettle, they're using it in manual mode and then limiting the output percentage of the PID rather than using it in PID mode. (That won't work well once the boil temp is reached)

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