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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Complete DIY eHERMS build
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Old 02-26-2014, 02:47 AM   #1
BLANK1911
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Default Complete DIY eHERMS build

Hey all, I have been hanging out for a while asking a few questions here and there but mostly learning. Well I recently decided to pull the trigger on my build. I have found it very difficult to find the time to drag all of my equipment up from the basement to the garage for an all grain brew day.

I was totaling 7 hours on average with setup, cleaning and tear down. I just don't have that kind of time anymore with a 2 year old and another on the way so I'm going electric!

My thought is that everything will be set up and ready to go in my large unfinished basement with a large sink next to it. I will be going eHERMS with PID's so I can walk away from it at certain times in the brew if I have to.

Here is the cool part that I am excited about (I still have not decided weather I enjoy engineering brewing equipment, or actually brewing beer more) I will be making everything in this system!

I will be using keggles, and a P-J diagram that I like. Another element will be budget, so I will be coming up with parts wherever I can find them cheaply. Some things I may splurge on because I really want them or because I'm just lazy sometimes.

I have already started on my stand that I am building out of steel salvaged from an old broken harbor freight trailer. I thought some may be interested to see this because it will be heavily DIY and on a budget... Let's see how well I can do! Thanks everyone for inspiration.

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Old 02-26-2014, 03:03 AM   #2
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Here are some pics of the stand in progress. I'm welding with a Chicago electric 90A flux wire welder that I picked up for under 100$ with a coupon a while back. I don't have hardly any welding experience and this I my first welding project. I seemed to get the hang of it and the welds seem strong and nothing that a flap wheel on the old grinder can't touch up.

I weight 250 and and jumped on top of this thing after hitting all of the joints with a dead blow hammer... Seems sturdy enough.

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Old 02-26-2014, 05:31 AM   #3
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I would add some type of cross bar or support on the legs. just 4 joints seem like it might not be strong enough for me. with up to 2 full kegs of hot beer/water/grain on there and you stiring or messing with whatever in the pots. better safe than sorry (IMHO) Cheers on the build though, will be awesome when your done

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Old 02-26-2014, 12:33 PM   #4
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Thanks, I'm planning another 2x4 between the legs and something that runs between those to support a shelf underneath for pumps and what not.

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Old 09-11-2014, 05:58 PM   #5
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Well, after having a baby this spring my progress really slowed down but the stand is finally finished

the shelf and top are made of cheap whitewood 2x6 from home depot that I planed down, and cut to width to fit the stand. I then use biscuits in the joints and glued them up. I breadboraded the ends of the top and pinned it with wood dowels which I think looks awesome. I finished them with a generous amount of outdoor oil for a durable waterproof finish.

I am very pleased with the way this turned out, although i'm questioning my use of the casters on the legs. This thing is quite heavy and they work great to help move it but the center of gravity is a little high and i'm a little concerned with it tipping with the added weight to the top when full. I guess Ill just come up with a way to anchor it to the wall that is easy to disconnect if i want to move it.

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Old 09-11-2014, 06:30 PM   #6
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Looks nice.

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Old 11-11-2014, 03:19 AM   #7
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So I was finally able to get some work done on this. I collected some parts and decided to get my power supply set up but ran into a small problem that someone might be able to help with.

I am lucky enough to have an existing 50 Amp line running to a spa panel for a hot tub that no longer exists. The line runs from a 100 Amp sub panel that is in my basement.

The plan was to bring the spa panel inside and install a 30 Amp breaker in the place of the 50 Amp in the sub panel. Unfortunately the wire used to run the 50A is 6 awg I believe and does not fit into my new 30A breaker. So I took the 50A GFCI out of the spa panel and put it into the sub panel and installed the 30A in the spa panel and Ill run my 4 prong outlet off of that.

Unfortunately when i fired everything back up the test button on the GFCI would not trip the breaker. I tested all of the lines and they are as should be. The only thing I can think that might be wrong is either the GFCI is bad. Another problem that might be is that the ground and neutral have a jumper across them in the sub panel... could this cause the GFCI to not trip when tested. I know the jumper should not be there but when I tried to remove it the screws on the busbar started to strip.

Any thoughts?

the GFCI is wired correctly... Pigtail to neutral and neutral and 2 hots out. I dont want to order a new GFCI online and have to return it if its something else. Can the GFCI be tested any other way?

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