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Old 12-22-2010, 04:32 PM   #1
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Default The cold sucks, going electric

After brewing during a snowstorm, I've decided electric brewing in the comfort of my kitchen is the only way to brew during the winter.

My main breaker panel now has a 40a GFCI breaker feeding the range receptacle in my kitchen.

This is the start to my wiring diagram, hacked from kal's diagram.

The 30a supplementary breaker is so I can use NEMA L6-30 plugs and receptacles for the 5500W element.

Can you guys critique this and give suggestions?

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Old 12-22-2010, 05:16 PM   #2
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I'll start the ball rolling, by pleading confusion. So- you plan to unplug your range and plug in the 240V / 5500W heatstick / element fitted to boil pot? What are the power key switch and relay doing? And you didn't illustrate the 40A GFCI breaker, which would be off the black & red leads to the bottom?

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Old 12-22-2010, 05:37 PM   #3
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I plan on using the range receptacle to power my control panel. Sorry I forgot to change the power key switch. This diagram is just to supply power to the control panel, haven't added the element or anything yet.

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Old 12-22-2010, 06:17 PM   #4
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OK, I'm doing much better now.....

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Old 12-22-2010, 07:17 PM   #5
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So your intention for the 120v power light is just to let you know that 120v power exists, right?

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Old 12-22-2010, 07:52 PM   #6
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No, that's power to the contactor...which supplies 220v.

I think following Kal's awesome example is a great place to start. I'm doing the same thing....just leaving out the ammeter and voltmeter/dc power supplies. Otherwise my box (toolbox) is pretty close.

What kind of system are you using? How many vessels/elements/PID's? With that info we can go further.

Is your on switch not rated for 120? If you're using the right size wire, you MAY not need that fuse. I wouldn't discourage you, but Kal only seemed to use fuses to protect the real small wires and sensitive PID's. But I could be wrong; I would let him weigh in on that.

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Old 12-22-2010, 08:43 PM   #7
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Ok I found Tiber_brews build thread and think this will work better for what I want to do. So I'm switching up diagrams.

ScubaSteve, my system as of now, is a 15gal Boilermaker, Coleman Extreme for mashtun. I've been heating up my water for the mash in the Boilermaker and mashing in. Then heat up the sparge water in the Boilermaker and drain the mashtun into a different pot that would then be transferred into the Boilermaker after sparging. I know, I need a bigger HLT.

I would like to do a RIMS or HERMS system sometime in the future.

I'm a lot more pleased with this diagram so could you please weigh in on this one instead?

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Old 12-22-2010, 10:13 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by snail View Post
Ok I found Tiber_brews build thread and think this will work better for what I want to do. So I'm switching up diagrams.

...
You did a good job modifying the diagram. That will certainly work for you as you have drawn it. Question - How large is the pot that you are using the 5500W element in? (And what is it being used for (HLT? Boil kettle?) Reason I'm asking is that a 5500W element is a lot of power even for a boil in a Sanke keg kettle.

Edit: It is not a problem, however, as the PID will control the temps and the boil rate. Reason (I guess) I'm asking is, what else does your plan call for in its final version. But - you can always change the element out later on. (He said - thinking out loud.)

BTW, I'd be glad to help you in diagramming your project out.
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:59 PM   #9
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I saw that you were helping Tiber_brew throughout his design process, modifying the wiring diagram as he chose different parts. So thanks for unintentionally helping me too! I should have probably put your name as a source in the diagram. Credit should be given where it is deserved.

Anyway, the element will be in my 15 gal Boilermaker which is acting as a HLT and boil kettle. I have the 15 gal Boilermaker, and two 7.5 gal kettles (from when I did 5 gal batches). My process is heat mash water in Boilermaker, mash in, heat sparge water in Boilermaker, drain mash tun to 7.5 gal kettle, sparge from Boilermaker, drain mash tun to other 7.5 gal kettle, another sparge from Boilermaker, then transfer all wort from kettles and second sparge from mash tun to Boilermaker. Kinda a PITA, maybe santa will bring me a new HLT for xmas.

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Old 12-22-2010, 11:25 PM   #10
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I saw that you were helping Tiber_brew throughout his design process, modifying the wiring diagram as he chose different parts. So thanks for unintentionally helping me too! I should have probably put your name as a source in the diagram. Credit should be given where it is deserved.
...
Please do not sweat that in any way. I pub the diagrams (in my style) to help others. Once that is done it becomes "public domain" .. So be it. I'm really pleased that it helped you (and others) in the understanding of how "stuff works".

Think your process through and I'd be more than pleased to help you in any way that I can. You are doing great so far. Please keep it going. After all, it's all about designing a system that is easy to use and something that will give you consistent and reliable results. Brewing great beer is not about formulas. It's all about consistent processes that can be tweaked.

I'm pleased that you are thinking this through. You are doing great so far. Please keep going and let me know if I can help in any way.

Prost!
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