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Old 02-19-2013, 03:02 AM   #1
Will319
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Default The Cold Bottom Brewery

Lets see if the pictures work here:

I wanted to do a write up of a brewery I just finished. First of all I want to thank everyone on the forum for all of the help, either directly, or for me stealing your ideas. I also want to give a big thank you to Boerderij Kabouter for building the control panel, for their 2P-Twent-E design that my build was based off of, and fielding all of my rookie questions.

A link to that the original design is found here: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/2p-...bouter-160970/.

So before moving further my goals: were to have a countertop 5 gallon system based off of the Brutus 20 design. I wanted it to be electric and run off of 110v 15A service. I wanted some sort of temperature control that would be easy to clean, so I settled on a RIMS System. I tried to go with the better parts when possible.

Here is a shot of the brewery packed up



Here is a shot of inside the pots packed up



Here is a shot unpacked of the brewpot



I decided to go with 2 electric elements installed via the Kal method, the only thing that I changed was that I plasma cut out one end of the box and mounted the element at one end and a recessed male plug in the lower half. This allowed me to have the depth to use the recessed male in order to be cordless, and pack up tidily.





I used the heavy duty Bulkheads from Brewers Hardware because I am mounting pumps directly to the outlets. I chose to use a Hopstopper screen in the kettle because I am using a plate chiller. There is a compression elbow in the inlet with a diptube attached in order to whirlpool the kettle. I also have a Bobby M sightglass and a Auber RTD installed in the sightglass. A Blichmann Brewmometer is also installed.

Here are 2 images of the Mash tun



With False Bottom removed



The Mash Tun is made with a Jaybird false bottom. I cannot recommend the material this is made of enough, however it arrived a bit larger and with a bent handle and no response from Nor Cal. The handle is cosmetic and I quickly grinded the false bottom down to a perfect snug fit. The false bottom is supported by a 2" stand from Nor Cal. I had to use a 2" stand to get above the Brewers Hardware bulkhead. The Mash Tun also uses a Blichmann Brewmometer and Bobby M Sightglass. I use a Loc Line for a return.

I use Camlocks and street elbows for hose fittings



I stole this concept from Bobby M and added a Stainless Oetiker clamp to it. This takes the strain off of the hose, helps to prevent kinking and has a better rate of flow over a hose barb connection.

Next is the control panel





The control panel was made by Justin AKA Boerderij Kabouter and is a excellent panel. It uses 2 circuits, however can run on one and produce a 4 gallon batch if only one circuit is available. If 2 are available it can boil 5+ gallons by the second circuit directly going to a SSR and out to the secondary element. The panel uses a 3 way switch to run the RIMS system while mashing. We went with the recessed male plugs to avoid cords. The RIMS system is a Tri Clamp from Brewers Hardware running a 5500W ULD element at 110V putting out 1375w.

Here is a picture of the Accessory Box



The box contains all of the Tri Clamp hardware, the RIMS tube, and both pumps. It also holds some of the power cords.

I use a plate chiller to chill



I have a Brewmometer off of a tee to dial in the pitching temperature.

Here are some shots of the brewery in action:

Heating Strike Water



Mashing



RIMS Recirculating



Wort Chilling

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Old 02-19-2013, 03:36 AM   #2
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Sounds good just need the pictures!

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Old 02-19-2013, 05:38 AM   #3
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I've never seen anyone do pumps like that... simple enough. looks good to me.

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Old 02-19-2013, 01:10 PM   #4
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.

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Old 02-19-2013, 01:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will319 View Post
Lets see if the pictures work here:

I wanted to do a write up of a brewery I just finished. First of all I want to thank everyone on the forum for all of the help, either directly, or for me stealing your ideas. I also want to give a big thank you to Boerderij Kabouter for building the control panel, for their 2P-Twent-E design that my build was based off of, and fielding all of my rookie questions.

A link to that the original design is found here: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/2p-...bouter-160970/.

So before moving further my goals: were to have a countertop 5 gallon system based off of the Brutus 20 design. I wanted it to be electric and run off of 110v 15A service. I wanted some sort of temperature control that would be easy to clean, so I settled on a RIMS System. I tried to go with the better parts when possible.

Here is a shot of the brewery packed up



Here is a shot of inside the pots packed up



Here is a shot unpacked of the brewpot



I decided to go with 2 electric elements installed via the Kal method, the only thing that I changed was that I plasma cut out one end of the box and mounted the element at one end and a recessed male plug in the lower half. This allowed me to have the depth to use the recessed male in order to be cordless, and pack up tidily.





I used the heavy duty Bulkheads from Brewers Hardware because I am mounting pumps directly to the outlets. I chose to use a Hopstopper screen in the kettle because I am using a plate chiller. There is a compression elbow in the inlet with a diptube attached in order to whirlpool the kettle. I also have a Bobby M sightglass and a Auber RTD installed in the sightglass. A Blichmann Brewmometer is also installed.

Here are 2 images of the Mash tun



With False Bottom removed



The Mash Tun is made with a Jaybird false bottom. I cannot recommend the material this is made of enough, however it arrived a bit larger and with a bent handle and no response from Nor Cal. The handle is cosmetic and I quickly grinded the false bottom down to a perfect snug fit. The false bottom is supported by a 2" stand from Nor Cal. I had to use a 2" stand to get above the Brewers Hardware bulkhead. The Mash Tun also uses a Blichmann Brewmometer and Bobby M Sightglass. I use a Loc Line for a return.

I use Camlocks and street elbows for hose fittings



I stole this concept from Bobby M and added a Stainless Oetiker clamp to it. This takes the strain off of the hose, helps to prevent kinking and has a better rate of flow over a hose barb connection.

Next is the control panel





The control panel was made by Justin AKA Boerderij Kabouter and is a excellent panel. It uses 2 circuits, however can run on one and produce a 4 gallon batch if only one circuit is available. If 2 are available it can boil 5+ gallons by the second circuit directly going to a SSR and out to the secondary element. The panel uses a 3 way switch to run the RIMS system while mashing. We went with the recessed male plugs to avoid cords. The RIMS system is a Tri Clamp from Brewers Hardware running a 5500W ULD element at 110V putting out 1375w.

Here is a picture of the Accessory Box



The box contains all of the Tri Clamp hardware, the RIMS tube, and both pumps. It also holds some of the power cords.

I use a plate chiller to chill



I have a Brewmometer off of a tee to dial in the pitching temperature.

Here are some shots of the brewery in action:

Heating Strike Water



Mashing



RIMS Recirculating



Wort Chilling



I fixed that for you. Hope you don't mind.

P-J
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:49 PM   #6
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Thanks P-J

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Old 02-21-2013, 11:37 AM   #7
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Will - this is very cool. Can you provide a little more input on the kal method for the elements? I'm starting to acquire parts for my own brewery, and I'm having a little trouble figuring out the through-wall bulkhead for the heating elements.

Along the same lines, how did you connect the junction box to the kettle?

Thanks!

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Old 02-21-2013, 12:50 PM   #8
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The Kal method comes form www.theelectricbrewery.com

The method is weldless. There is a full write up on his site. The element is enclosed in a watertight junction box and uses a shim washer and a O-ring between the box and the pot you're using to seal. The method uses a locknut on the inside of the pot to tighten and make the seal by pulling the element to the pot. By being weldless you dont have to worry about stripped threads on your vessel, or a area that is harder to clean.

I decided to not use a knockout punch to drill the holes. I used a large step it and went slow and lubricated constantly. I every few seconds stopped and tried to fit the element and made sure that I would get a snug fit. I decided to go with the recessed male plug to avoid a cord because I wanted a portable system and didnt want to be dragging around 2 cords. Due to the depth of the recessed male recepticle, the element had to be on one end of the box and the recepticle at the lower end. So rather than to use the hole saw in Kals Instructions and cut out the middle, I plasma cut the one half of the box for the element and fit the recepticle on the lower end through the cover.

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Old 02-21-2013, 03:44 PM   #9
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Awesome - thank you. I keep getting the Kal site and e brewing supply mixed up, and then not being able to find anything.

I have a few class coupons for Techshop when they open up in Pittsburgh - I'll see if I can get the parts done in one of the machining or torch classes.

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