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Old 05-17-2013, 01:55 PM   #21
BadWolfBrewing
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No worries about using wheat. Just make sure to keep stirring while bringing to a boil, to make sure your element isn't sitting in solids. After the brew day, clean the gunk off the element. I use a green scrubbing pad, and then recirc with hot pbw.

Just did a batch with almost half wheat, sample tasted fine. Element was definitely gunked up after, but cleaned up easily.

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Old 05-17-2013, 06:21 PM   #22
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I scrub mine with a tooth brush after each brew session. If you stay on top of it, it doesnt get to bad.

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Old 06-13-2013, 03:36 AM   #23
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this concerns me. I just use a commercial bucket heating element for my brews, and the only cleaning I do is a brief wash after each brew, but it has a lot of gunk on it. I figure that Oxy clean wash and a heavy rinse would get it quite clean indeed...............

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Old 06-13-2013, 03:32 PM   #24
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I clean after every brew. I soldered 1" nuts onto my keggle so it's easy to unscrew every time. My old elements were cleaned too vigorously with a green scrubby and the nickel plating was removed (I use 2x 120v 2kW HWD elements ). This made cleaning extremely difficult. I replaced the elements and have been using the non-scratching pads to clean. Works like a dream, cleans quickly and haven't damaged the plating. Cleaning is a must after every brew as I find a film covering the elements after every brew. It's worse after higher gravity beers but even with lower gravity worts (~1.040) I still get a significant film on my elements.

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Old 07-09-2013, 12:02 PM   #25
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I finished a Kal clone HERMS build this year. I've been able to do 8 brew sessions so far this year. I have no issues with the element scorching the wort. After the boil, I run the remaining HLT water into the boil kettle and add oxyclean and use a toothbrush on the heating element. It gets it fairly clean. There is always some faint residue on the element that never seems to come off, but it certainly doesn't look burnt and never causes any off flavors. As far as wheat beers go, I've never seen anything strange occur and I've brewed a hefe, belgian wit, and a hoppy wheat. Infact the wort that caused the most build up was an Imperial Stout. That one was very hard to clean up after. Just use hot water, oxy clean, and a good scrubbing.

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Old 08-14-2013, 07:53 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammy71 View Post
I have a RIMS tube. I have to clean it every 3-4 brews or after every brew that has a large percentage of wheat. If not, I get a burnt taste from the particles buringing to the element. Wheat beers are horrible for particles I guess.....
Wheat beers are horrible for protein which is getting burnt on your element.


; )

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Old 08-14-2013, 07:57 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris7687 View Post
Hey guys, so what was this comment on wheat beer and electric systems? Is it not good ot make wheat style beers with an electric system? I have a recipe I am looking to make soon with about 10% of the bill is wheat. I don't want to ruin a batch... Could use some insight.
Just clean the element afterwords and you're good.

The higher protein content results in more crud caked onto the element.

I'm not sure whether all sized proteins cake equally or if it's the larger molecular weight proteins that are responsible for most of the crud on the elements; if it IS the larger molecular weight proteins a protein rest should help a little bit. (Which you should be doing for hefe's anyway; you convert the large chill haze inducing proteins to small molecular weight head and body-forming proteins and FAN which is your primary yeast nutrient.)


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Old 08-14-2013, 08:07 PM   #28
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Commercial brewery cleaning cycles first use alkaline cleaners to remove organic deposits (mainly yeast crud) but it also helps remove the protein crud on elements, followed by a rinse and then acid to sanitize.

-PBW is the home brewer friendly alkaline cleaner; the right kind of dishwasher tabs can work too but you REALLY need to research them. Bringing the water + PBW up to boiling does a lot of the work for you but won't fully remove the crud -simply rub it with a wash cloth and it will be clean in a jiffy!


If you don't want to scrub just use Citric Acid (available at most home brew shops in a crystaline form over by the wine ingredients) and water and boil it for a few minutes. -The stuff is magical and will clean the element 100% without scrubbing.


I add 1-2 gallons extra into my HLT and then while the boil is happening add PBW to my HLT water and start dismantling my mash fitting and hoses and then I soak them in the HLT water after it gets hot for a while; I then recirc the liquid from the HLT through my pumps and mashtun and then after chilling and transferring the liquid out of my BK and rinsing it, I pump the PBW into the BK and power up it's element for 5ish minutes. -A quick scrub with a rag and the elements are 95% clean.

Every 3rd-5th brew I boil with citric acid. I also rotate my elements between my boil kettle and my HLT which helps too (tri clamp fittings are SO easy to swap).


I've only ever brewed with electric elements; I was in Ireland the last 5 years and almost everyone there boils with electric elements as 240v power everywhere and very expensive propane makes it a no brainer.


Adam

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Old 08-15-2013, 01:31 PM   #29
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Sani-Clean 5ml per liter and everything will come off even the most stuck on char will flake off after a few days of soaking. I found a container used for storing spaghetti and keep it fill with the solution, right after I fill fermentors I pull the element and drop in.

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Old 08-16-2013, 03:12 AM   #30
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No need to soak it for days. A green scruffy will remove the protein.
+1 to the green scruffy. I like how I can thread it vertically and horizontally to really clean up my 5500w camco in between the bars
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