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Old 04-12-2013, 01:44 PM   #11
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I've only done a single brew so far with my electric element, but it wiped clean with a green scrubby pretty easy. I'd think it was just part of the kettle cleaning process to wipe it off, just like the rest of the kettle.

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Old 04-12-2013, 01:46 PM   #12
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Water and oxy free, bring almost to a boil and use a scrub pad.

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Old 04-12-2013, 05:20 PM   #13
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Scrubbed yesterday, there is still a very resilient layer of black on the element, all the caked on protein is gone though.

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Old 04-12-2013, 10:10 PM   #14
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I use warm water with oxy free and a cotton dishcloth. I wipe down everything while its still warm and it all comes off with minimal elbow grease.

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Old 04-12-2013, 10:22 PM   #15
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I haven't tried it myself, but I have read commercial breweries use TSP to clean the elements in electric kettles.

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Old 04-15-2013, 03:08 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammy71 View Post
I have a RIMS tube. I have to clean it every 3-4 brews or after every brew that has a large percentage of wheat. If not, I get a burnt taste from the particles buringing to the element. Wheat beers are horrible for particles I guess.....
Corn is hard on elements too. I had to scrub pretty hard and get out a brass brush. Every other time a scrubby by itself worked.
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:49 PM   #17
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I just ruined a batch where I had let the element run dry for a few seconds when sparging or something. Thought it wouldn't bother the beer, but after three months of aging this beautiful tripel, tasted just like you said. Campfire!

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Old 05-12-2013, 01:44 PM   #18
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I've done 20 batches on my RIMS system. I always run the HLT water through it as I sparge which helps. Then, the night before brew day I fire up my boiler (1/2 bbl converted to Tri-Clamp outlet) and clean the RIMS tube and CFC with steam under pressure. The back pressure is created by attaching a Tri-Clamp and hose to the outlet of the RIMS tube (or CFC) and placing the other end of the hose in a Homer Bucket with cold water. Use a hose with Tri-Clamps at both ends for this as the weight of the fitting will keep it submerged in the homer bucket no matter how much racket is going on, and there will be a racket. It's like fireworks going off when the hot steam hits the cold water. I do this for about 15 minutes once the cracking sound starts, after which time the homer bucket is nearly to a boil. You will see a layer of grain debris on the surface of the water and you'll smell the sour grain as well.

I recently did a Munich Helles, which should highlight any off flavors from my system, and it won 2nd place at a homebrew show, so I am comfortable my system works. Props to Dave Smith in Ohio who came up with the method.

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Old 05-13-2013, 02:38 PM   #19
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I have only one burnt batch of many that I had to dump. (always thought it was impossible to burn a batch cause it never happened before). I needed to take a break from the brew session and I let the wort sit in the kettle for about a half hour pre-boil. All the trub settled down low and stuck to the elements and burned black as night. Word of warning...keep the brew stirred up and trub suspended prior to boil, during the boil there is enough movement of the wort. The ramp up heating to boil with the element submerged in non-moving trub soup is potentially dangerous.

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Old 05-16-2013, 05:50 PM   #20
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Hey guys, so what was this comment on wheat beer and electric systems? Is it not good ot make wheat style beers with an electric system? I have a recipe I am looking to make soon with about 10% of the bill is wheat. I don't want to ruin a batch... Could use some insight.

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