Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Winners Re-Re-Re-Drawn - 24 hours to Claim!

Get your HBT Growlers, Shirts and Membership before the Rush!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > can someone help with 120v?
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 07-27-2011, 01:02 PM   #11
jkarp
Beer Herder
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jkarp's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elizabeth, CO
Posts: 2,105
Liked 34 Times on 29 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

As long as you've got a plan to leverage the PID in the future, it makes sense.

The problem with sharing that circuit with the mini fridge is, compressors have a large current requirement at startup. It's possible the breaker will pop when it cycles on.

__________________

Many Bothans died to bring you this information.

jkarp is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-27-2011, 05:22 PM   #12
agezzi
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lafayette,In
Posts: 124
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarp
As long as you've got a plan to leverage the PID in the future, it makes sense.

The problem with sharing that circuit with the mini fridge is, compressors have a large current requirement at startup. It's possible the breaker will pop when it cycles on.
So does that mean when it kicks on it's pulling more then the rated 1.5 amps? If so I will need to find a new spot for the mini-fridge. As well I'm will go with auberin pid. Can I still use buzzer with temp on manual?
__________________
agezzi is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-27-2011, 05:55 PM   #13
weirdboy
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 7,982
Liked 433 Times on 353 Posts
Likes Given: 63

Default

I don't think it's an issue if you are using a 1500W element, which is only going to draw ~12.5A, if you have a 20A breaker on that circuit.

That is, assuming the wiring in the wall is of the proper gauge.

__________________
weirdboy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-27-2011, 08:19 PM   #14
LordUlrich
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 540
Liked 12 Times on 11 Posts
Likes Given: 8

Default

Even at 2000W you only draw ~16 amps. Also breakers are a bit more complicated than just triping if they are over current. There is a curve for how long before a breaker trips based on how much current is drawn. So if it is just barely over you have a little time before a trip.

__________________

Don't take any more faith in anything I say than you would anyone else on the internet. If you listen to what I say, then hurt your self or break something it is your own fault, I am just expressing my opinion or experience.
THINK for your self!!

LordUlrich is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-27-2011, 08:23 PM   #15
weirdboy
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 7,982
Liked 433 Times on 353 Posts
Likes Given: 63

Default

I would be more worried about frying the wiring if it is not up to spec, which can be the case in an older place.

Although in my place even on the 15A breakers all my wire runs are 12ga.

__________________
weirdboy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-28-2011, 01:38 AM   #16
agezzi
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lafayette,In
Posts: 124
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

So wait could I use a 2000w element? Or should I play it safe and go 1500w. One other thought as well. Could I use a low density 240 at 120. If so watt size would I want to keep in the 1500 range.( if correct they use 1/4 the watts at 120v.) It would b nice not to have to change elements when I move.

__________________
agezzi is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-28-2011, 01:39 PM   #17
wilserbrewer
Sponsor
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 9 reviews
 
wilserbrewer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jersey Shore, Jersey
Posts: 7,270
Liked 571 Times on 466 Posts
Likes Given: 11

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by agezzi View Post
So wait could I use a 2000w element? Or should I play it safe and go 1500w. One other thought as well. Could I use a low density 240 at 120. If so watt size would I want to keep in the 1500 range.( if correct they use 1/4 the watts at 120v.) It would b nice not to have to change elements when I move.
A 20 amp circuit will handle 2000w. Running a 240v element at 120 will only give 1/4 the wattage, not enough IMO. 1500w is very slow, go at least 2000watts. Run 2 elements at 2000w, 4kw total and you are in business!
__________________
wilserbrewer BIAB bags
custom sized BIAB Bags, hop bags and ratchet pulleys at reasonable prices


Http://biabbags.webs.com/

Corona Mill Bucket System V. 2
wilserbrewer is online now
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-28-2011, 03:22 PM   #18
agezzi
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lafayette,In
Posts: 124
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Ok well I would like a 2000w,but the only breaker I can use is 20 amps. The thing is my mini fridge is on the same breaker. So can I use a 2000w element on a 20 amp breaker with the mini fridge(1.5w)? For now this will just help the boil on stove. Will add another element when I move.

__________________
agezzi is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-28-2011, 03:54 PM   #19
jkarp
Beer Herder
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jkarp's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Elizabeth, CO
Posts: 2,105
Liked 34 Times on 29 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Go 2KW. Wost that's going to happen is the breaker will trip when the fridge cycles on. If it does, just unplug it for the brew session.

__________________

Many Bothans died to bring you this information.

jkarp is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-28-2011, 04:02 PM   #20
mredge73
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
mredge73's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: La Porte, TX
Posts: 632
Liked 32 Times on 32 Posts

Default

If you are worried about the fridge, unplug it and leave it closed.
The temperature will not drop much in the <2 hours it takes to do an extract batch.
You shouldn't need to do that at all, if the breaker is fairly modern then it is not fast blow like some fuses. It will compensate for the emf required for the inrush current of the fridge.

The old apartment is likely using 14g copper wire. Not to worry though, the only effect you will see at a high current will be a slight voltage drop.
http://www.electrician2.com/calculat...r_initial.html
It may be warm to the touch, but the wire will not get hot enough to cause any damage.

Fire occurs when you get a direct short and your breaker fails to trip. Example, try pushing 100A+ through a 14g wire for X amount of time.

__________________
mredge73 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Any 120V Setups for 10 Gal Batch? JJWP Electric Brewing 30 05-31-2011 12:17 AM
Best Low Density 120V Element? slickfish Electric Brewing 2 03-14-2011 02:05 PM
120v on 220v element? hatrickwah Electric Brewing 34 03-07-2011 09:14 PM
120V wiring help magnj Electric Brewing 1 02-20-2011 09:19 PM
120v Switches CoalCracker Electric Brewing 7 10-15-2010 09:53 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS