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Old 03-14-2011, 06:29 AM   #31
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I was willing to risk burning up a SSR to see if this would work. I used it a few times, but quickly progressed to a BCS controlled system.

I put a thermometer in the box and sealed it as best I could. Under 50% duty cycle running a 1680watt heatgun and a pump for 3 hours, the temp never exceeded 100f which is 37.8c. The operating range of the auber ssr is up to 70c.

There are NO fuses or over current protection in this build and the wiring is a rats nest.

I had no problems with it in probably 6-8 brews that it was used in. I still use the "Digital Thermometer" portion on occasion.
Ed, excellent observation. That is a very tight fit for the heat sink in that box, and it still did not heat up much. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:19 PM   #32
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Well the heatsink pictured is not going to work, I'm going to order one of the Auber units and just drill it in even though I don't want to. I wanted to mount this case on a shelf and a screw head out the bottom will mess that up but oh well. Also there is no such thing as a high temp glue that bonds plastic and metal.

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Old 03-14-2011, 10:30 PM   #33
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Also there is no such thing as a high temp glue that bonds plastic and metal.
JB Weld epoxy will do it for sure.
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:01 PM   #34
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eh, wasn't meant to be. Auberins heatsink en route. Will get the terminal buses mounted today though, maybe some wiring.

Should I start a new build thread or does someone wanna change the thread title for me?>

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Old 03-20-2011, 09:15 PM   #35
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Ok so I got the heatsink for the SSR. I mounted the rest of the terminal buses and the ssr. But I think I screwed up. In my head I assumed I could use a regular home outlet to control 2 separate devices independently. But I'm looking at the thing and despite being two set of terminals for hot an neutral they are bridged.

I wanted to be able to turn the pump and element on independently but it seems like that's not going to happen. I'm unsure what to do besides just plugging the pump into the wall and switching it manually when needed...

Thoughts? Why are there two of each terminal on these things? Maybe if you want to run power to the next one down the line on the wall?

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Old 03-20-2011, 10:12 PM   #36
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There are little tabs of metal that bridge the two outlets together on the side. You can break these off (work it back and forth with pliers until it detaches). This separates the outlets.

You only need to do this on the hot side and then use both screws, one for element and one for pump. The neutral side can be left bridged with only one wire connected to it.

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Old 03-20-2011, 11:00 PM   #37
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Is that advisable? Sounds kind of unsafe...

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Old 03-20-2011, 11:51 PM   #38
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That is *specifically* what those tabs of metal are meant for and the reason there are two sets of screws, so yes... It's advisable.

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Old 03-20-2011, 11:54 PM   #39
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of course, you want the thing unplugged and powered down before you do this.

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Old 03-21-2011, 10:18 PM   #40
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Thanks Walker, upon further review I feel comfortable doing that . I'm taking a quick beer and HBT break from wiring. So far I have 2 questions. On the switches is it safe to assume that of the 2 terminals available the one on the off side is the in terminal and the one near the on side is the out terminal? And same for the SSR. 1 & 2 are the 120V terminals, is 1 in and 2 out?

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