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Old 06-29-2012, 08:55 PM   #51
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By comparison, the Emerson 1650W element that has also been discussed here works out to around 50 watts/sq in. That actually puts it in the range of an ULWD element. Also, my meter read 8.7 ohms, which is exactly where it should for the voltage and watts listed in thier specs.
I like my emerson a lot, but it's just so darn big! Not really a big deal, but it makes it harder to place two of them.
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 06-30-2012, 12:58 PM   #52
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A note on the Camco 02853 elements that started this thread:

I did some testing on the elements that I have. The resistance of the Camco 02853 was 10.2 ohms. But according to their specs it works out that it should be 9.6 ohms. What that means is that at 120V it actually puts out just over 1400 watts (not the 1500W listed.) And as to their claim that it's low watt density. Doing the math it comes out somewhere around 125 watts/sq in. That puts it much closer to a HWD element than to a LWD, and nowhere near the ULWD they call it.

By comparison, the Emerson 1650W element that has also been discussed here works out to around 50 watts/sq in. That actually puts it in the range of an ULWD element. Also, my meter read 8.7 ohms, which is exactly where it should for the voltage and watts listed in thier specs.

The thing to take away from this is to not trust anything that Camco says or prints about their elements. Check for yourself before installing.
Thanks for doing this, how did you measure the surface area? The element is much thicker than the HWD elements I've seen.
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:25 PM   #53
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I used a digital caliper to measure the diameter and a tape measure for the length. I'm not sure how close to the end that the coil actually heats and I approximated the length over the bend radius, so my total length number could be off a little, but I don't think too far.

The formula for watt density is:
Watt Density = Watts / (3.14 x Diameter x Length)

For the 1650W Emerson I used .319 diameter and 34" length and came up with 48.4 for the watt density (rounded to 50 for the earlier post.)




Got mine mounted into the pot this morning. No leaks. Testing now, but happy so far.

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Old 07-08-2012, 06:44 PM   #54
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WhooHooo! Direct fire EMLT with NO scorching . . .
and a grist of 50% malted wheat and 50% flaked maize.

My first fizzy yellow beer.

dscf4131.jpg  
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:53 PM   #55
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Wurt is not that acidic which is why you can use copper and brass fittings in brewpots.
While it may not be THAT acidic, keep in mind that at a pH of 5, it is 20 times more acidic than water at neutral pH 7. So for materials more susceptible to acid reactions (like Zinc) this could pose a problem.
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:28 PM   #56
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WhooHooo! Direct fire EMLT with NO scorching . . .
and a grist of 50% malted wheat and 50% flaked maize.

My first fizzy yellow beer.
Tell me more about your manifold
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Originally Posted by davekippen View Post
Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:43 PM   #57
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Tell me more about your manifold
It's Loc-Line coolant line. I use it for cooling cutting tool in my shop.

The holes in the end of the stems are about 1/8" diameter. Found them not to be enough so I drill more holes in the bottom side of the plastic. Works well now, but no better than the braid I had in there before.

Mostly just looks cool.
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Old 07-10-2012, 03:50 PM   #58
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Works well now, but no better than the braid I had in there before.

Mostly just looks cool.

That's what I wanted to know. I like that it's customizable and bendy and what-not...but I'll stick with my braid for now I guess.
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:13 PM   #59
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Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but is the Camco -2853(err - 02852) incoloy/stainless or zinc plated?

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Old 09-27-2012, 02:50 PM   #60
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D'oh! wish I would have found this thread before purchasing a Camco 02853/02852 element off of Amazon! Now debating if I should return, or live with it. for those of you who own/live with the 02852/3 element, have you been otherwise happy with it? Did you clean the element down to the copper? not sure (like the post above mine) what the coating on it is...if I keep it should I do a starsan soak to remove?

So consensus is that there is no such thing as a 120v ULWD stainless element?

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