New Giveaway - Wort Monster Conical Fermenter!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Camco 1500 watt ULWD Elements




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-29-2012, 02:59 PM   #41
stlbeer
Senior Member
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
stlbeer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Fenton, MO
Posts: 842
Liked 31 Times on 30 Posts
Likes Given: 71

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thargrav View Post
Wurt is not that acidic which is why you can use copper and brass fittings in brewpots. Beer gets more acidic as it ferments and the acidity shows on the inside of any brass fittings, like brass faucets you may have installed in your kegerator. And BTW, modern brass is a alloy of copper and zinc. The anodes are zinc, not magnesium. Magnesium would react violently with water.

Interesting that in the first post of this entry http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/element-rust-no-more-235704/, the magnesium anode is not reacting violently with the water. I think you're misinformed regarding the reactivity of solid magnesium in water. http://www.lenntech.com/periodic/water/magnesium/magnesium-and-water.htm

Perhaps you are thinking about sodium or potassium?

http://www2.uni-siegen.de/~pci/versuche/pics/natrium3.jpg


__________________
My RIMS eBrewery build
stlbeer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2012, 03:28 PM   #42
thargrav
Registered User
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 821
Liked 38 Times on 35 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

I probably was thinking of sodium. But I've changed enough anodes in commercial water heaters to know they are made out of zinc. So was what was left of the anode in my last water heater that died.



__________________
thargrav is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2012, 03:35 PM   #43
AnOldUR
fer-men-TAY-shuhn
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
AnOldUR's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,753
Liked 454 Times on 330 Posts
Likes Given: 357

Default

The debate over the saftey of the zinc plating goes on, but I figured "better safe than sorry."

The link I posted above suggested soaking in an acid solution, so I thought I'd try Star San. I let the entire 120V/1650W Emerson element soak for a few hours in gallon bucket of some old Star San that was getting pretty cloudy. That turned it from a shiny chrome finish to a flat black. After that, all it took was some light polishing with Scotch-Brite to clean it up to bright copper.

Here are a couple of shots from before and after polishing. Might not mean anything, but it was easy and I'll feel a little safer using the element now.





__________________
Sent from my POS computer because I refuse to own a smartphone!
AnOldUR is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2012, 03:38 PM   #44
tre9er
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 4,338
Liked 230 Times on 195 Posts
Likes Given: 35

Default

Nice. Mine looks like the first pic. When it came it looked like chrome. It's boiled wort twice now and prior to that water a few times. I've yet to taste either batch, but I wonder if anyone has done the math to figure out how much zinc would be in the beer and whether it constitutes dangerous? We take Zinc supplements at times, yes?

__________________

_________________________________
Skal!
Den Faaborg Bryggeri

Quote:
Originally Posted by davekippen View Post
Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
tre9er is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2012, 04:15 PM   #45
gnatp2
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hoboken
Posts: 102
Likes Given: 1

Default

Why have 2 smaller elements instead of one 5500W ultra low density element?

Nate

__________________
gnatp2 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2012, 04:55 PM   #46
AnOldUR
fer-men-TAY-shuhn
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
AnOldUR's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,753
Liked 454 Times on 330 Posts
Likes Given: 357

Default

Some people don't have access to a 240V line, but can use two different 120V circuits.

__________________
Sent from my POS computer because I refuse to own a smartphone!
AnOldUR is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2012, 04:57 PM   #47
gnatp2
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Hoboken
Posts: 102
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AnOldUR View Post
Some people don't have access to a 240V line, but can use two different 120V circuits.
Ah!. Makes sense. Thks
__________________
gnatp2 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2012, 05:03 PM   #48
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 21,734
Liked 853 Times on 572 Posts
Likes Given: 26

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thargrav
I probably was thinking of sodium. But I've changed enough anodes in commercial water heaters to know they are made out of zinc. So was what was left of the anode in my last water heater that died.
Magnesium anodes are the most popular. Aluminum, some with up to ten percent zinc content, are used in areas of hard water. No such thing as pure zinc rods.
__________________
BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
Bobby_M is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2012, 05:35 PM   #49
AnOldUR
fer-men-TAY-shuhn
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
AnOldUR's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,753
Liked 454 Times on 330 Posts
Likes Given: 357

Default

A note on the Camco 02853 elements that started this thread:

I did some testing on the elements that I have. The resistance of the Camco 02853 was 10.2 ohms. But according to their specs it works out that it should be 9.6 ohms. What that means is that at 120V it actually puts out just over 1400 watts (not the 1500W listed.) And as to their claim that it's low watt density. Doing the math it comes out somewhere around 125 watts/sq in. That puts it much closer to a HWD element than to a LWD, and nowhere near the ULWD they call it.

By comparison, the Emerson 1650W element that has also been discussed here works out to around 50 watts/sq in. That actually puts it in the range of an ULWD element. Also, my meter read 8.7 ohms, which is exactly where it should for the voltage and watts listed in thier specs.

The thing to take away from this is to not trust anything that Camco says or prints about their elements. Check for yourself before installing.

__________________
Sent from my POS computer because I refuse to own a smartphone!
AnOldUR is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-29-2012, 07:15 PM   #50
ChuckO
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
ChuckO's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Keyrock, WV
Posts: 834
Liked 62 Times on 57 Posts
Likes Given: 8

Default

Here's a good reference on sacrificial annodes, Bobby_M is right, not made of zinc.

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

My water is slightly acidic (6.8 pH) and will pit a zinc diecasting in a couple of weeks. Leaves a very ugly surface.



__________________
ChuckO is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools
Display Modes