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Old 07-28-2012, 12:23 PM   #1
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Default Budget Electric setup questions

As much I'd like to do a setup like Kal's or some of the cool ones you guys have done, I'm going to put together a less expensive one for now.

With that in mind, I'm wondering if PJ or anyone else would be willing to review the build below and comment on any concerns or recommended changes without greatly changing the scope?

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-brewing-system/

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Old 07-28-2012, 12:40 PM   #2
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I'm interested in this as well. I'm trying to decided between this and jkarp's countertop setup for my build

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Old 07-30-2012, 04:57 PM   #3
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To elaborate more on what I'd like to accomplish:

I'd like to have a single PID, SSR, etc. to control temps for my HLT and BK.

I've ordered 2 RTD temp sensors and 5500w elements to build 2 heat sticks.

While I don't mind having to to unplug a temp sensor and heat stick from the HLT and plug in the same for the BK, I'd think there wouldn't be much cost to build in switches to do this?

I'll keep looking through some of P-J's diagrams to find something similar but if anyone already has such a wiring diagram, I'd appreciate it.

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Old 07-30-2012, 11:27 PM   #4
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What PID did you order? If you are getting the right one, you only need a single temp probe. Actually, you only need a single probe - regardless - so the question becomes what is your intended use of the 2nd probe?

You say you are going to make 5500W heat sticks. What sort of kettles are you going to use and how are you intending to mount the temperature probes?

What is your power feed 240V-30A (or 50A)? Also is it a 3 wire or 4 wire outlet? GFCI protected?

P-J

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Old 07-31-2012, 12:20 AM   #5
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I ordered an Auberin SYL-2352 PID and 2 Auberin PT100-L50M14 probes and two elements with the intent of putting together a 3-tier system.

Power is 240v - 30A 3 wire coming off of dryer. My intent was to use a spa panel for GFCI.

At the moment I have a 20g Boilermaker kettle (HLT), 60 qt Igloo Ice Cube cooler (MLT) and a keggle for my BK.

My initial thought was to just go with heat sticks for now and avoid modifying the Boilermaker (or keggle)any more than I have to. I'm tempted to hang the probes over the side for the time being like the heat sticks.

I'd prefer the control panel to be configured so that I can switch from HLT to BK should I permanently install the heating elements and probes.

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Old 07-31-2012, 12:38 AM   #6
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I was planning to cut some costs on my project by mounting the temp probe in the pump outlet. I'll be using the pump to "stir" my HLT to get a consistant temp and this way the temp will be taken as what I am about to start pumping into the mash tun.
The other time I need to have a temp readout is for cooling, which I was planning to recirc & whirlpool in the kettle through a plate exchanger, once the temp is where I want it I can disconnect the hose to the chiller and go to my fermenter.

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Old 07-31-2012, 01:06 AM   #7
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For your 240V-30A - 3 wire feed - the Spa Panel would be set up like this:



Your wiring plan could be this:

And - as always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")



BTW: I still do not see the need for a second temp probe. Keep in mind that when you are using the BOIL kettle, the PID would be in manual mode. Yes, it needs a temp probe connected - however the probe in the HLT would still be connected and not used. So: I'm puzzled with how you would be using a second probe.

I hope this helps you.

P-J

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Old 07-31-2012, 03:31 AM   #8
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Thank you, sir.

The second probe would only allow me to monitor temps up to boiling but I understand your point about it not being necessary.

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Old 07-31-2012, 03:49 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deprecated View Post
Thank you, sir.

The second probe would only allow me to monitor temps up to boiling but I understand your point about it not being necessary.
Very true... However: the detail of swapping the temp probe becomes very complex and could add a bunch of dollars to your build. You might be better off with a standard thermometer in place.

Oh... Oh... BTW.. A simmer boil and a raging boil both happen at a "nominal" 212°F. The temperature is the same. The difference is the power applied. (BTW: This is just an old mans' point of view.)

I'm done....
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:39 PM   #10
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So I'm quite new to electric brewing. What gauge of wire is usually used within the control panel. I'm no electrician but have the ability to follow electrical diagrams and not kill myself in the process...

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