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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Brutus Control Panel Build
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #1
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Default Control Panel Build

To start off, I apologize if this is posted in the wrong forum but based on the amount of electrical questions and technicalities I figured it would be appropriate.

I'm in the process of building a Brutus 10 clone and will include a heating element in the HLT to maintain water temp, mash temp as well as to sparge with. I am coming from a success 2 tier system with little electronics but want the ability to monitor temp in both the HLT and Mash for more consistent brew sessions. Over the years I had been challenged with fluctuation in temp creating variable uncontrollable with each session. Nothing that has effected my person taste for each batch but being able to duplicate a batch was always difficult.

I after debate and extra thought I am going to be running a dedicated 20amp line just for the brew stand. This will obviously be a single 120v 20 amp GFI breaker. I'm not looking for full electric brewing just enough for a single low-density 2000W 120v element. I will be propane as my main fuel source which is why I should be fine with supplementing with the electric element to maintain temp.

I have a 12x12 box and a list of items I have already purchased. I hope all is in line with what I need and will create a list of items not yet purchased.

Here is a general idea of what I am looking for set up.

1 PID for HLT (HERMS) temp
1 PID for MASH w/element
1 Auber Timer
1 Main on/off switch
1 Buzzer Alarm for both PID and Timer
2 on/off switches for dual pumps

Here is a more specific list of those parts I have ordered.

(Qty: 2) SYL-2352 PID temperature controller, 1/16 DIN size, SSR output, 85-264VAC supply
(Qty: 1) Auber ASL-51 timer
(Qty: 5) 2 position maintained selector switch, 1 normally open (NO) contactor
(Qty:1) 2 position maintained selector switch with key, 1 normally open (NO) contactor
(Qty: 1) 22mm PUSH BUTTON RED MOMENTARY 1NO/1NC
(Qty: 1) 40A SSR Solid State Relay
(Qty: 1) Heat Sink DC3-32V Control AC24-480V
(Qty: 2) 8 position terminal strip, 20 amp
(Qty: 1) 22mm buzzer, 115-120V AC/DC
(Qty: 3) Blue 22mm LED pilot light, 100-120V AC/DC (power alarm indicator for PID and Timer)
(Qty: 1) Red 22mm LED pilot light, 100-120V AC/DC (alarm indicator)
(Qty: 2) Green 22mm LED pilot light, 100-120V AC/DC (pump indicator)
(Qty: 1) Yellow 22mm LED pilot light, 220V-240V AC/DC (Heating Element "on")

I'm hoping that there is an electric diagram from PJ out there that will help me get things in line.

Please send any and all comments and suggestions my way. The building will beginning once all parts arrive.

Cheers

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Old 03-12-2013, 09:14 PM   #2
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Here is a shot at what I am looking to create for a panel layout.

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Old 03-14-2013, 01:42 AM   #3
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Christmas is coming early tomorrow. Fedex has scheduled for 2 packages for delivery.
Any thoughts or suggestion for start the build??

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Old 03-14-2013, 03:51 AM   #4
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Subscribed!

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Old 03-15-2013, 02:58 AM   #5
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Unable to locate a diagram for the set up I am planning to build. Can anyone recommend a program used to sketch out said diagrams?

I'm looking for a 2 PID, 1 Timer, 2 pumps, 1 buzzer and reset button and 1 2000W element powered on 110v 20amp. On/off switches and indicator lights for each unit. In case there were any volunteers to help.

First boxes of goodies arrived today. More switches and lights tomorrow.

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Old 03-15-2013, 11:36 PM   #6
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No suggestions on which program to use for drawing out my control box wiring? I just want to make a drawing to get the boards approval before setting up the build.

Another box of goodies showed up today.

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Old 03-16-2013, 01:20 AM   #7
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I would look and see if there is a 220 build that was all the stuff you want and them remove the extra hot line. You can do that in paint I you need to. I know I have seen a 220 build that uses all those components except of course the 110 elements

This thread is close, but it doesn't have the timer switches http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/hop...00/index2.html

Like I said, cut out one hot line and change all plugs to 110 versions and it should get you close. You might be able to get to of the contractors as well and just use 20 amp switches

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Old 03-20-2013, 01:32 AM   #8
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Making Progress. Here is the cover with the lights, switches and PID almost in stalled. I order labels today as well. So far so good.



Comments welcomes

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Old 03-20-2013, 03:05 AM   #9
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Do you plan on using labels? It looks like it might be real snug above the PIDs/timer if you do.

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Old 03-20-2013, 03:15 AM   #10
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If you send PJ a list of parts you have and what you want he will draw a schematic for you usually. I have never seen him fail to help anybody when they ask for his help. He is a stand up fellow and a huge asset to this forum with his electrical jnowledge. Worth asking anyway.

Wheelchair Bob

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