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Old 11-06-2012, 09:29 PM   #11
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AWESOME. Thanks OMJ - That's exactly what I needed - It measures bang-on 1.25" as precisely as I can tell with a standard tape measure. Granted, the picture I took makes it look like it's wayyy off, but I assure you that's just the lens perspective, it's just a cell phone camera shot.


In the box, I have 1-1/2" ... 1-1/4" ... 1-1/8" ... 1" ... 3/4" ... and a 1/2" COND(uit?) which I don't think belongs in this set at all. Amazingly.... my measuring tape says it's 7/8", the size you were talking about.
So perhaps whoever used to have this set, lost their 7/8" and replaced it with a 1/2" conduit punch to get the same result? EDIT: I cross-refed the part number, it just appears to be dual application - it DOES match the p/n for a 7/8" punch. SWEET, it's a full & complete set!


You are right about the steel kettle. Granted it was "only" a Bayou Classic 30qt that came with my turkey fryer burner kit. But still, it took me a number of wood spade bits to get all the way through the wall of the kettle, and it discolored heavily and at the very end, left some jagged edges. It took a healthy dose of pounding the rough edge with a hammer, grinding with a Dremel, etc. to clean up the hellish job I had done drilling.

It made drilling my Aluminum kettle so much more fun... I was done in virtually no time at all. Before I drilled, I chose where I wanted the hole to be, and for good measure, I gave it a couple whacks with a rubber mallet, to sort of flatten the spot out, that way the O-ring would make an excellent seal.


EDIT: Deleted - Answered my own question, I stumbled across the right page on TEB.


Seeing how TEB uses the Greenlee Step Bit on this page ..... I actually don't need to buy that part, right?

They're only using it to create the pilot hole... I know I can find a high quality bit that will drill a pilot hole in aluminum. I've bought my wife a lot of drill bits lately to encourage her to work on the projects I don't know how to do. She's a fearless one. Anyways. Point is, I have lots and lots of bits to choose from.... Surely one will drill a pilot hole adequately.

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Old 11-06-2012, 09:54 PM   #12
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New question. On http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/he...lements?page=8 - in image 2, it shows the stripped wire ends and the plug it's about to go into....... then in image 3, it's already hooked up. I can't tell from the pictures or from how they described it.... are those plugs simply Push-In? or do you have to fasten the wire to them?

I guess it could be push-in, as the strain relief will hold it together, once the plug body is screwed down, right?

I told you I'm electric-stoopid.

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Old 11-06-2012, 10:53 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Chriso
New question. On http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/he...lements?page=8 - in image 2, it shows the stripped wire ends and the plug it's about to go into....... then in image 3, it's already hooked up. I can't tell from the pictures or from how they described it.... are those plugs simply Push-In? or do you have to fasten the wire to them?

I guess it could be push-in, as the strain relief will hold it together, once the plug body is screwed down, right?

I told you I'm electric-stoopid.
There are screws you tighten on the wire



You really don't need a step bit as long as you have a bit big enough to make a hole for the punch.
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:02 PM   #14
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That is a pretty nice score having that punch set. That is not a common set. Most common is a conduit punch set. Which you have to be conscious about not getting the actual size hole mixed up with the conduit trade size

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Old 11-07-2012, 11:30 AM   #15
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So I'll stick to trying to answer the questions you asked me originally...

If your HLT already has built in controls that you're happy with, run it separate. Plugging it into the control panel you build would really only use the control panel as an extension cord as all your functional controls would stay at the HLT - why go through the cost / effort.

PIDs - they monitor temperature via a probe, and then make adjustments to the output to reach and maintain a target temperature. They're better than simple on/off controllers in the sense that they 'learn' your system, and will adjust output to reach the target temperature as opposed to just heating up full bore until the temperature is hit and then turning off until the temperature drops like the Love or other type controllers. You can use the 'dumb' controllers and just deal with cycling above and below your target temperature. You can also use computerize controllers that use programable logic and code to hit your set point. PIDs (in my opinion) seem to be the simplest devices that still give you accurate results.

SSRs are steady-state-relays, they are similar to contactors in that they turn on / off a load via a smaller charge to a coil. The advantage of an SSR is that it can cycle very quickly as it has no moving parts, but they allow a small leakage charge through even when 'off'. The advantage of a connector is that it actually physically disconnects power so you know it's safe, but you can't cycle them quickly. That's why a lot of people use both.

If you use the main power on/off switch, you are still having to perform a more complicated process than mashing a button. Further, you still have power to the panel at the switch. Most people wire the e-stop to trip the GFCI breaker, killing the pannel all together.

You are correct - if you wanted the simplest panel and wanted to deal with a kitchen timer and an analog thermometer, all you'd need is a power modulating device to control the element and a plug for your pump. You wouldn't need any sort of panel at all really, but you'd have to closely monitor everything and learn your system to use it consistantly.

Chances are neither the BK or HLT draw 30A - that's a LOT of juice. Even a 5500 watt element at 240 only draws 23 amps. But yes, make sure your power supply can handle your expected demand. Think about your process - are you ever going to need to run the boil kettle and the HLT at the same time? Odds are no unless you plan to do back-to-back brews and want to save time. If you just want to run one, you really only need 30-40A, so the 50A panel is fine.

I'd suggest you make a few drawings for yourself. An overall line diagram of where things will need to go, plumbing lines, electrical lines, sensors, whatever. Make 20 of them, then make a few more. Get a good understanding of what you want and then start worry about the details. It's a lot to do and if you try and do it all at once like it seems that you are you're just going to wind up confused and exhausted.

-Kevin

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Old 11-07-2012, 06:34 PM   #16
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Thanks for that Kevin. If I understand... even if I mount two separate 30A outlets in the GFCI Spa Panel - if I put an eStop on to the Control Panel - the when activated, the eStop actually trips the GFCI, right? So if I hit Stop, it should kill both the HLT and the entire Control Panel -- in other words, anything plugged into the Spa Panel. Right?

If that is the case, there would be no reason to put the extra wiring & outlet inside of the Control Panel which I think unnecessarily complicates things. ... That would be awesome.

I think I should consider the larger Spa Panel though - I would hope to run both pieces of equipment simultaneously, as you mentioned it would be extremely nice to do consecutive brews since I'll be indoor and pump-based, my brew days won't wear me out nearly as bad as they do right now.

I put the Kal eBook on to my wife's tablet and read through it while watching the election results last night. It is unbelievably thorough. Now I understand why it feels like everyone on the forum is skipping over discussing all of the really basic knowledge - it's because the eBook covers it all in perfect detail. Duh. Silly Chriso.

Thanks again for all of your feedback. My next plan is to re-read the entire PDF book. And then read it one more time. Then... I'm going to price out my kettle parts and see what the actual raw parts cost looks like for one kettle. If it's within reason, I might take the pre-built TheElectricBrewery kettle element kit since it's so well built & pretty. But if it looks like it's going to me a major cost savings, well then maybe I need to invest in the extra tools (Drill press especially) to get the job done myself.

I am much more confident now that I know how it all fits together...... I just don't want to buy the tools (extra step bits, hole saws, etc) to do the full element assembly, if I can get away without buying them. I've bought and subsequently lost / had taken from me a lot of tools already in my short lifespan, I feel like it's a huge money-suck that I'll never escape from, so I'm quite loathe to buy even more of them. (Hence encouraging my wife to take over anything handy around the house!)

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Old 11-07-2012, 07:46 PM   #17
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I just bought the book and am waiting for the link to show up, so I will soon have LOTS more reading material to look over.
You should have gotten it moments after ordering. If not (and it's not in your SPAM folder), drop me a note.

EDIT: Doh! I see you already got it... never mind.

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Old 11-07-2012, 07:57 PM   #18
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Chris, good to see you've found smarter brains than mine on this. I do have electric HLT and BK but I have no control, nor do I need it. My boil is perfect, vigorous but not raucous, and I don't recirculate, so there was no need for holding a set temp with any of my heating elements. For what you want, these guys you've found will take good care of you!

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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:43 PM   #19
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You should have gotten it moments after ordering. If not (and it's not in your SPAM folder), drop me a note.
Thanks anyways for checking to make sure I found it, Kal! I had pretty much hit 'Post', gave it 3 minutes, still didn't see it, so then I checked the Gmail junk mail folder, and found it in there as I had suspected it might be.

Can I just reiterate that - even though I'd already read the sections that are available for free on the website - the eBook is still SO much more thorough & detail oriented!!! Seriously, GOOD work on this, your time & photos were well worth it. I'm absolutely satisfied with my purchase.


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I do have electric HLT and BK but I have no control, nor do I need it. My boil is perfect, vigorous but not raucous, and I don't recirculate, so there was no need for holding a set temp with any of my heating elements.
Thanks buddy - I still want to pick your brain sometime - I keep forgetting to shoot you a note - typical Fall season being busy, that's all. :P Now that we have the club meeting & brew demo & swap meet out of the way, I should have some leisure time this month to finally get out of the house and visit people. Let me know if you have any brew days coming up!
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:51 PM   #20
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Can I just reiterate that - even though I'd already read the sections that are available for free on the website - the eBook is still SO much more thorough & detail oriented!!!
I'm confused. The ebook has nothing more than the website. It is word for word, picture for picture, identical. It's simply an electronic book version of the build instructions on the site meant for eBook readers (iPad, Kindle, etc), for printing, or for just having a complete backup (just in case).

I only say this because I don't want to mislead others into thinking there's something different, nor do I want people to think I'm "holding back" information that is only available to those who pay (I'm not a big fan of that business model).

All of the information on my site is, and will always be, 100% free. I will never post something that is only available for those who pay.

Kal
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