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Old 04-17-2012, 10:25 PM   #11
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This may be a little but has anyone had a burned flavor. Is it best to start the element after you have recirculated for a few minutes to get the smaller particles that may have gone threw the false bottom back on top of the grain bed?
I've done about 15 batches with my SS pipe fitting RIMS tube and have had no burned flavor. I make sure I have established a good flow before turning on the heat. It will also assist with your vorlauf, but I still run it out to a pitcher to start.

My RIMs tube has a cross at the input so heavier stuff drops out there as well and I can then open the dump valve to clean it out.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:41 PM   #12
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i purchased this element but it was only 7" and a little stubby thing instead of 11" like the product description says. Amazon said they sent the wrong item but i am not so sure. The packaging says it is part number Camco-02903 as well as 02902 which is weird. i sent it back and ordered another and if it comes back tiny and stubby again I'll send that one back too.

I was hoping to find an ULWD element to run at 240v around 2000-2500 watts that is about 9-11" long. Any suggestions?

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Old 04-20-2012, 03:01 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by sethhobrin View Post
i purchased this element but it was only 7" and a little stubby thing instead of 11" like the product description says. Amazon said they sent the wrong item but i am not so sure. The packaging says it is part number Camco-02903 as well as 02902 which is weird. i sent it back and ordered another and if it comes back tiny and stubby again I'll send that one back too.

I was hoping to find an ULWD element to run at 240v around 2000-2500 watts that is about 9-11" long. Any suggestions?
There are a few elements here that are close to what you're looking for, some are copper some are resistored stainless. I see a 240v 2kw stainless LWD at 9.5"
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/rheem...celements.aspx
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:43 PM   #14
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There are a few elements here that are close to what you're looking for, some are copper some are resistored stainless. I see a 240v 2kw stainless LWD at 9.5"
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/rheem...celements.aspx
That Rheam element 2000w/240/stainless resistored is my backup if I can't find anything a little longer. I will just have to settle for 9"
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:48 PM   #15
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Well after some time, I finally got around to building my control box. I wanted to use PVC/Plastic for ease of cutting and drilling. I decided to use a plastic ammo can. In the bottom I used a sheet of aluminum to mount the innards to. A very special thanks to PJ who some time ago drew me a drawing for my box. I wanted the rims to not be able to fire if the pump was not on, and he was able to provide the schematics. Couldn't have done it without him.

Here are some pics:



This is the front. The timer is a sestos model from eBay. I may add a switch in which I can turn off the timer, because it doesn't seem to have a way to turn of independently.



This is the back with outlets for the RIMS tube, pump, and RTD temp probe.



The top has a separate compartment. Handy for storing extra fuses, and the temp probe.



Inside wiring not nearly as neat as others.

Now I just have to wire up the element in the tube, and test it out.

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Old 06-28-2012, 03:19 PM   #16
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Same element and tube here, tight fit but is pretty much centered.

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Old 09-09-2012, 03:35 AM   #17
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Inside wiring not nearly as neat as others.
Maybe a dumb question but what are those two black devices in between the contact strip and the SSR in the picture of your wiring? I understand/recognize everything else but those...I'm looking to build something similar which is why I ask. Thanks.
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:13 AM   #18
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Maybe a dumb question but what are those two black devices in between the contact strip and the SSR in the picture of your wiring? I understand/recognize everything else but those...I'm looking to build something similar which is why I ask. Thanks.
Those are contactors. They handle the amps since the illuminated push button switches can not.
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:32 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Those are contactors. They handle the amps since the illuminated push button switches can not.
Interesting...so then do the switches turn the contactors on/off?
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:43 AM   #20
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Interesting...so then do the switches turn the contactors on/off?
Yes, essentially the contactors are big switches that are rated at different amps. The push button switches control them. Someone else may be able to provide a better explanation.
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