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Old 10-11-2012, 12:39 PM   #31
bobfranklin
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Guys most of this was built in Aus using our Jaycar part numbers
Jaycar buy from either Farnell or RS.

For pumps I recommend finding people on Alibaba and asking for samples, the green pumps are excellent march pumps and food grade with good impellers.
The brown pumps vary in quality, make sure they are food grade, up to 150 degrees (or at least over 110) and get samples - price of pump = gone.

Bendable elements are also GOLD!

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Old 10-11-2012, 07:08 PM   #32
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If/when I attack this, I'll get Digikey or Mouser parts and post them up.

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Old 10-27-2012, 09:58 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by appi View Post
Hello
where can i buy the brewmisershield? i want to build the Controller an use it in my homebrewery ( remise-braui.ch ).
thanks for the graet code.
remo
Hey remo,

I don't have any PCB's left but I would not mind if someone in the USA does a run of PCB's and sells them to interested people. You don't need the PCB as you can use a prototyping board, it just won't be as neat. In the http://www.mediafire.com/?ji79nrtwvk3gga2 ZIP file there are all the eagle schematics and board files so that anyone can produce their own PCB files to send to a PCB manufacture. I used Fusion PCB service http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fus...html?cPath=185 there is a guide on how to make the Gerber files needed to make the PCB's too.

cheers steve
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Old 10-29-2012, 01:56 PM   #34
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Well I for one would definitely be willing to run the order.

Everyone, let me know via PM if you're interested. First step is to see how many are interested, then we'll go from there getting the boards and then possibly a big DigiKey/Mouser order for components.

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Old 11-15-2012, 04:02 AM   #35
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Hi Matho,
Thanks for all of the hard work on the Brauduino. I have just completed build on a system using your code. I was planning on a system similar to the High Gravity BIAB system, but with an Arduino conrtoller. I had most of the parts for the build when I stumbled across your posts. The code was easy to adapt. I built it using an Arduino Proto shield.
Differences:
I wired the buttons straight to the Arduino and used the INPUT_PULLUP instead of external pull-up resistors.
I wired the Arduino output straight to the SSR.
I'm using a logic level MOSFET to drive the pump instead of a relay (I may use the PWM capability at some point to control the pump flow rate).
I didn't use LEDs on my build. I modified the code to display "H" and "P" in the first character positions of line 1 and 2 on the LCD display when either the pump or heater are active.
I modified the code to display in degrees F.

None of these changes are better, just how I had planned to build the system before I found your posts.

So far I'm waiting on a pump and have wired the system to 120V for checkout. I have had the system heating and boiling water.

Question for you guys:
I have a 5500W heater element. Would it be good to directly control the % heater output during the boil instead of using temperature control? or can you effectively control boil rate with temp? I ask because the HighGravity system allows you to switch off the PID and manually control the heater output during the boil. I've started to mod the code to allow this, but am wondering if it is worth the effort.

Thanks,
Mike

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Old 11-15-2012, 12:34 PM   #36
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I can't speak to the arduino factor, but boiling water is 212*F (or there abouts) regardless of whether it's a slow boil or a raging boil. I have yet to actually brew a batch using a PID or electric element, but most everyone on the boards uses a temperature set point to get NEAR boil (so they can set and forget) and then change to manual at around 50-65% depending on the size of the element / quantity of wort to boil

So, in short, control the heater output and don't try and maintain boil with a temperature control.
-Kevin

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Old 11-16-2012, 05:07 AM   #37
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Hi Matho,
Thanks for all of the hard work on the Brauduino.
I agree! I read your code awhile back. After MUCH trial-and-error, I realized that the key to the PID library is only using PID once you are at/near the setpoint, and to use something else to get you into that band. Then, a long time after THAT, I realized that you had already been down this road and posted that in your sketch. I facepalmed.

Quote:
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I wired the buttons straight to the Arduino and used the INPUT_PULLUP instead of external pull-up resistors.
Me too, except I put a cap across the button. I could be wrong, but *think* INPUT_PULLUP was added after 1.0? Maybe, maybe not? I don't think it was there when Steve wrote Brauduino.

Quote:
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I'm using a logic level MOSFET to drive the pump instead of a relay (I may use the PWM capability at some point to control the pump flow rate).
What pump are you using? I'm considering the same thing. I.E., using a bubbler and the PID library to control the level of the mash during sparge. It might be overkill, but that's a horrible reason not to try as far as I'm concerned.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdwilson View Post
I have a 5500W heater element. Would it be good to directly control the % heater output during the boil instead of using temperature control?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdwilson View Post
or can you effectively control boil rate with temp?
No.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdwilson View Post
but am wondering if it is worth the effort
It is. And for what it's worth, I suggest giving up an analog pin and using a pot. It's just intuitive (and QUICKER) to reach over and dial down an element by turning a knob counter-clockwise instead of swapping through menus and holding a button down to lower your PWM percentage, and hoping it comes down before you boil over.
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:27 AM   #38
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using a topsflow pump from US solar pumps. I don't know if I can control it with PWM because it has internal electronics. I'll find out.

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Old 11-17-2012, 07:23 AM   #39
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thats awesome I'm glad I could help.

As for the boil, I have used a PID algorithm in my first controller to control the boil and it works OK, I can go from a simmer to a mild boil to a strong boil by adjusting the set temperature, if you set it to boiling point then the pid will put in just enough power to keep it there so you get a slow simmer, if you put the set temp just a couple of degs higher then you get a stronger boil because of the proportional part of the PID. I have not tried the arduino library to control the boil and you might find after a while the I will wind up and you get a full boil happening but it can be fixed but dropping the temp by a couple of degs and wait for the I to drop back down. In any part of the brewing process the set temperature can be adjusted by the up down buttons and in the boil stage the temp can be increased to 120 degs c so you can achieve full power without the PID stuffing you up.

cheers steve

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Old 11-20-2012, 05:33 AM   #40
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I went ahead and modded the code, just because I had time while I'm waiting for the pump to arrive. I've modified it so that once the set point temp is reached in the boil stage or when setpoint is reached above 200F in manual mode the up down buttons directly control the % heat output. The display changes from S/A= to %/A= to indicate the switch over. The initial % heat output is stored in EEPROM with the other settings. It seems to work OK.

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