Electric Brewing Supply 30A BCS Giveaway!


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Old 12-05-2011, 02:09 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by hatrickwah View Post
I would like to have the LEDs light when the element is actually on, but not sure how to safely wire the LEDs into that circuit.
you would need a power transformer to step 120v AC down to 5v DC which most LEDs use. you can either build your own simple circuit if you are handy like that, or just wire up a cell phone charger to switch on and off in parrallel with the heater, and use the output of that to run a LED.
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:00 PM   #12
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I was able to answer my own questions this morning, I knew Kal had something on TheElectricBrewery.com. Turns out I need to modify my diagram a little, and add 2 220v LEDs:

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Old 12-05-2011, 05:28 PM   #13
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I've looked at several different methods, Tiber_brew, Kal, and more recently BigBobsBrews
Wow, I'm honored to be mentioned with those guys.

One thought though, I don't see a power in contactor in your visio diagram, do you plan to use the breaker for On / Off control? I'd recommend you add one, like in kal's diagram (although that ones only rated for 30 amps, you would need 50+). I got a 60 amp contactor similar to this for the same purpose $20 shipped so keep an eye out (and its huge, so it'll help with that "free space").

Overall it looks like you have a solid plan, so keep us updated & the pics coming.

Oh & also, I really like that glycol setup you made.
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:33 PM   #14
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I'm considering adding a BCS to my system at some point down the road, so the more I can learn about it here the better.

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Old 12-05-2011, 05:38 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by BigBobsBrews View Post
Wow, I'm honored to be mentioned with those guys.

One thought though, I don't see a power in contactor in your visio diagram, do you plan to use the breaker for On / Off control? I'd recommend you add one, like in kal's diagram (although that ones only rated for 30 amps, you would need 50+). I got a 60 amp contactor similar to this for the same purpose $20 shipped so keep an eye out (and its huge, so it'll help with that "free space").

Overall it looks like you have a solid plan, so keep us updated & the pics coming.

Oh & also, I really like that glycol setup you made.
For now I'm leaving it without the power in contactor. I should have the room to come in later if I so choose, but as the drawing shows, initially I'll use the e-stop to shut off the controlling power to everything except the BCS unit. With the breakers in between the source and the equipment I feel fairly comfortable leaving the box hot. Could easily add it down the road if I plan well.
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:00 AM   #16
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Updated electrical drawing, again, only the high voltage. I'll worry about the BCS wiring with regard to communication with the SSRs when I finally order the box and have it in my possession.


I am so ready to pull the trigger on my orders, but must wait. I'll put up the parts list here shortly. It will show everything I have to order now, therefore excluding the parts that I already have. At some point maybe I'll update my spreadsheet to reflect those pieces as well.

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Old 12-06-2011, 12:32 AM   #17
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Would this diagram help you?

(As always - click on the image to see a full scale diagram that is printable on Tabloid paper 11" x 17")

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Old 12-06-2011, 01:21 AM   #18
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shouldn't each 5500w element have a 30a breaker instead of a 25a?

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Old 12-06-2011, 01:26 AM   #19
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shouldn't each 5500w element have a 30a breaker instead of a 25a?
Why?
A 5500W 240V element draws 23A.
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:35 AM   #20
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Ok... a 240v 5500w element averages 23a.

I don't know about your neck of the woods, but at my house my "240" line averages closer to 220 actual volts. So, 5500w/220v= 25a = popping breakers everytime you blink.

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