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Old 11-08-2012, 11:46 PM   #11
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Mux or others with Brewers Hardware Tri-Clover, how/where do you attach the ground?

Chris

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Old 11-09-2012, 02:33 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by lschiavo
Looks good TH. Nice looking cord connectors too. Where are those from?
Thanks. www.heyco.com. Look for the liquid tight cordgrips. I don't even know how much they cost, I got them as free samples by clicking on the sample request link. I don't know if they will send them without a company name.
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Old 11-09-2012, 04:38 AM   #13
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I am also in the "keep your element threads/nut outside of your enclosure" camp. I haven't posted mine in the show me your element thread because I'm not quite done yet, but here's what I've got so far:



Boxes are reclaimed junction boxes off scrap electric motors, modified to take a cover on both sides. I drilled a hole in the cover for the element contact block to fit through, then welded the element nut to the outside. I put a bead of silicone sealant on the inside of the cover around the contact block just for good measure.

This, combined with the Brewers Hardware triclover fittings.

I run the ground wire to the inside of the junction box, but also ground the RIMS tube / kettle / chassis separately.
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Old 11-10-2012, 11:55 PM   #14
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TH and Dert- first I don't mean to hijack this thread but I agree with the safety fact and I want to make sure I understand how you did your elements. You drilled the hole in the box, inserted the terminal side of the element into the box and then welded the attached 1" nut to the outside of the box?

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Old 11-11-2012, 01:37 AM   #15
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TH and Dert- first I don't mean to hijack this thread but I agree with the safety fact and I want to make sure I understand how you did your elements. You drilled the hole in the box, inserted the terminal side of the element into the box and then welded the attached 1" nut to the outside of the box?
Exactly right.
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Old 11-11-2012, 01:43 AM   #16
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Then the gasket that came with the element you put over the threads, insert it into the hole on the kettle and locknut on the inside (or use a welded 1" coupling)?

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Old 11-11-2012, 01:46 AM   #17
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Notice they are just tack welds too. Too much heat could melt the plastic parts of the element. Mine got a bit discolored but it doesn't affect the function.

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Old 11-11-2012, 05:51 PM   #18
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I soldered the SS nut to the keg wall and then screwed the element into it. The element was first, then a silicone gasket then the SS box then the SS nut. The element is removable and sandwiches the box onto the keg- no welding.

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Old 11-11-2012, 11:12 PM   #19
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I soldered the SS nut to the keg wall and then screwed the element into it. The element was first, then a silicone gasket then the SS box then the SS nut. The element is removable and sandwiches the box onto the keg- no welding.
Your seal then is ultimately inside your box. Hence the welding.
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:21 PM   #20
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Then the gasket that came with the element you put over the threads, insert it into the hole on the kettle and locknut on the inside (or use a welded 1" coupling)?
Yes, except I replaced the gasket that came with the element with a silicone one like most people around here use. I searched for reasons why people did not use the gasket that came with it but didn't find much. There may be those who do use them. My guess is that the gaskets are nitrile (buna n) rubber (like standard o-rings) which is rated for temps up to mid 200's(°F). This might be fine, but I decided to play it safe and go for silicone which is rated for much higher temps.
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