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Old 01-13-2011, 11:22 PM   #1
mrlisk
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Default BCS-462 Brew Rig Build

So after some research, I think I've decided I'm going to go the route of the BCS-462 over the standalone PID. I think the fact that it can control many different things in one interface will cut down on the amount of equipment and separate "operations" I have going on. Here's a draft schematic i put together. Does anyone see any glaring problems?

I'm hoping to eventually expand this unit to running my kegerator and fermentation chambers. It will be great to be able to monitor what's going on outside in my brewhaus, and not have to walk out there everyday just to check temps (because it's sure cold outside!!)

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Last edited by mrlisk; 01-18-2011 at 10:28 PM. Reason: Change premise of thread to include everything going on with the build
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Old 01-14-2011, 02:23 AM   #2
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What program did you use to create your diagram? I about to embark on a build, but am considering using both propane and electric. The weather is pretty moderate for the most part in North Texas, but there are times when I'd like to brew in the garage.

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Old 01-14-2011, 03:21 AM   #3
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You might want to do a Manual/off/auto switch for the pump. Makes priming & clean up a lot easier.

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Old 01-14-2011, 10:01 AM   #4
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@ranch - I actually wound up using powerpoint. I spent some time trying to find something better, but couldn't. Good luck with your build!

@samc - It's something I'm considering. with the web interface for the BCS i can tap a button to make the pump go on and off when i want it to, so it's like having a 2 position switch, but I don't know that I want a digital switch between me and the pump if something were to go wrong. It's also half the reason why i'm putting a switch on the elements (the other reason being i want to prevent turning both on at once)

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Old 01-14-2011, 10:55 AM   #5
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I like the style you chose to diagram your plan. It makes a visual that is easy to follow. All of my diagrams are done in a similar way.

Good Job!

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Old 01-14-2011, 01:26 PM   #6
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Just a quick note, most folks here use 40a SSR's, it's been said that they will last longer because of the lower heat generated vs the 25a versions. I found some Crydom D2440's on eBay for a great price that I picked up for my future build.

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Old 01-14-2011, 10:25 PM   #7
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I just ordered some 25A SSRs with heatsinks...drats. Anyone know what the amps being pulled through each SSR might be for the configuration i put in the OP? Is it half of the total amperage being pulled by the element?

edit: or is it the same number of amps as the 4500W/240V = 18.75A

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Old 01-14-2011, 11:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrlisk View Post
I just ordered some 25A SSRs with heatsinks...drats. Anyone know what the amps being pulled through each SSR might be for the configuration i put in the OP? Is it half of the total amperage being pulled by the element?

edit: or is it the same number of amps as the 4500W/240V = 18.75A
It will be 18.75A but don't worry about that. The 25A SSR can handle it without a problem as long as you provide a heat sink for it with decent air flow around the heat sink fins.

No sweat.
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:43 PM   #9
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OK - great. I plan on using heatsinks on the SSRs controlling the elements and putting a muffin fan(s) on the control panel to regulate the heat.

I'm guessing no heatsink is required for my pump SSRs. I think the pump will pull about 4A at 30 watts (1/25 HP) with 120V.

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Old 01-14-2011, 11:45 PM   #10
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On another note, does anyone know the difference between a T2 and T3 type thermistor? Grainger has a decent selection of inexpensive stainless thermistor probes with stainless compression fittings, but i'm hung up on the T2/T3 detail.

Here's a link: Thermistor Probes

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