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Old 02-01-2013, 05:38 AM   #1
jdog101
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Default Basic 3 Tier electric setup help (e-brew noob)

I have been brewing extract for a couple years before finally moving to all grain a few weeks ago. I have been reading the electric forum for a while, and have finally decided to make the jump to an electric brew setup. I know there are a ton of posts on what you need to get setup, but I haven't been able to find a thread that is for a setup like mine, while being basic enough for me to understand.
Current setup:
15 gal keggle Boil kettle
10 igloo cooler mlt
10 gallong mega pot hlt
3 tier brew stand

I would like to keep things a gravity fed for now to keep costs down. The boss has approved a budget of about $300 for all new parts. I have an electrician friend who will do the wiring, but he doesn't brew so I need a parts list and diagram. Not sure if $300 or less is feasible since I know there is a lot to buy. Any help is greatly appreciated. It would be nice if the setup is upgradable for future add ons, but like I said it is a tight budget.

Thanks,
Jared

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Old 02-01-2013, 12:11 PM   #2
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What is available for you electrically?

Do you have the room/capacity for an additional 30A 220 circuit? 110 only? Do you wish to do 10Gal batches or 5 only? Do you wish to use electricity for both the HLT and Boil? Back to back batches? (both hlt and bk going at the same time) Batch or Fly sparge?

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Old 02-01-2013, 03:56 PM   #3
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I have access to 220v. 5 & 10 gallon batches. Not planning to run both bk & hlt at same time, but if the price is close it would be nice.

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Old 02-01-2013, 03:57 PM   #4
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Heating element in bot bk and hlt. Batch sparge.

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Old 02-01-2013, 05:30 PM   #5
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I have seen a few people mention using 240v infinite switches as a very basic option. That would keep out the expense if pid's and all of that. Is there any reason 1 240 volt infinite switch for each element in a outlet box would not work?

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Old 02-03-2013, 10:26 PM   #6
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Must not have asked the right question. Guess I'll figure it out by trial and error.

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Old 02-04-2013, 12:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdog101 View Post
I have seen a few people mention using 240v infinite switches as a very basic option. That would keep out the expense if pid's and all of that. Is there any reason 1 240 volt infinite switch for each element in a outlet box would not work?
An infinite switch (PWM) works very well for the boil where you can adjust by eye to get the boil vigor you seek.

A PID is a better solution for mashing because it will keep mash temp for you, specifically if you are recirculating. Once you have the PID, assuming it has a manual mode, in manual mode it functions essentially as a digital PWM.

You can certainly use a PWM to mash, measuring the temp yourself and turning power off and on as necessary. That would work best with an insulated mash tun where you can hit mash temp and cut power, maybe giving a boost or two during the mash if needed.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:58 PM   #8
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I designed a single PID eBIAB panel for about $300. This assumes you have a spa panel with GFCI and all the kettles, pumps, already purchased. You would need a couple extra parts to add a second contactor and outlet to switch from BC to HLT, or you could simple unplug the cord to switch vessels.

If you start buying greenlee punches, deluxe RTD probes, etc you will be way over budget.

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