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Old 11-23-2010, 09:52 PM   #1
rgrrbt
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Default ASL-51 timer wiring

I've been following Kal's great plans over at theelectricbrewery.com, and am in the process of wiring my control panel.

I am using an Auberins ASL-51 timer, and after reading the terminal assignments in the manual and attempting to compare it to the diagram in the instruction manual for the Omega PTC-21 that Kal is using, I am not certain as to how to wire this to meet my goal.

The goal in wiring the timer is to have a normally open contact block connected to a reset button that would start the timer countdown over. I also have alarm switches for each PID and the timer itself. The idea is to wire this to have the same results as outlined on Kal's build here.

Here is the terminal assignment diagram for the ASL-51:


Here is the diagram for the PTC-21:


How can I translate Kal's wiring for the PTC-21 to the ASL-51?

Thank you in advance.

Rob

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Old 11-29-2010, 08:01 PM   #2
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I did the same thing....and I bounced a few versions off Kal as well.

Here is my bastardization of Kal's timer wiring sheet.
This works just as his design does which makes me happy!

Hope it helps

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Old 11-29-2010, 09:21 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by JayInJersey View Post

Hope it helps
Awesome! This is very helpful. Thank you!
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:02 PM   #4
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That reminds me.... I need to post this on the site! THanks for doing this Jay!

Kal

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Old 12-07-2010, 02:04 PM   #5
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No problem Kal.

Since I'm using all the plans you have on your site...consider us even

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Old 01-29-2011, 03:11 AM   #6
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Thanks so much for posting this schematic JayInJersey! It was a tremendous help.

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Old 02-06-2011, 02:28 AM   #7
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What programming mode did you select. I was thinking
Code 4: Time delayed on or off (cnt down) - 1M-9999M
Relay 2: Starts counting by reset. Relay pulls-in when reaches the set value.

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Old 02-22-2011, 02:16 PM   #8
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Don't have the page with the codes here to tell you exact...

But I definitely used Relay 2 to have it start countdown by reset

I toyed with the 1-9999M one but ended up using the 1s-99m99s one cause I like to see the seconds ticking off

While there may be occasions where I'll be boiling for longer than 1.5 hrs (120 IPA comes to mind)...odds are it will be broken up with hop additions so it won't be counting down the whole time, just 10-15m breaks


And I like seeing the seconds tick off

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Old 02-22-2011, 02:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayInJersey View Post
Don't have the page with the codes here to tell you exact...

But I definitely used Relay 2 to have it start countdown by reset

I toyed with the 1-9999M one but ended up using the 1s-99m99s one cause I like to see the seconds ticking off

While there may be occasions where I'll be boiling for longer than 1.5 hrs (120 IPA comes to mind)...odds are it will be broken up with hop additions so it won't be counting down the whole time, just 10-15m breaks


And I like seeing the seconds tick off
I'm in the same boat as you are using this timer...it takes some getting used to, that's for sure. But I can't get the alarm to work! Nothing will trip it, not the PID's or the timer. I swapped out the buzzer for a lamp that I know works....still nothing.

I wired #13 to the hot bus....but i can't understand why you also used a jumper from #1 to #14? If you only use the NO relay ALM 1 it shouldn't matter, right? Maybe I'm being stubborn, but I can't see WHY it was wired this way; so I wired it the way I thought it should work....and it doesn't work
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:06 PM   #10
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The PID wiring I got off Kal's site...the only thing I added was the timer wiring.

I haven't tried the alarms off the PIDs but I know the timer one works.


In my totally un-electrical vocabulary the way I see it is:

The neutral side of the horn is always complete.
The hot side is only completed when a few things align
1) a device trips the connection (being the timer expires or the pid does its thing)
AND
2) said device's switch is in the ON spot

Now granted if more than one switch is ON I won't know which is causing the alarm at first glance...but I can fix that issue by training myself to always keep them OFF unless I want it to ring.

That make any sense?

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