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Old 10-02-2011, 02:18 PM   #1
jma99
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Default Anyone using this system?

I have a 15 gal pot that I want to convert to electric.
(I have a 220V outlet in the laundry room)

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=3084

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2514

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2652

I'd like to be able to brew 10 gal batches inside during the winter, but don't want to burn down my house!

Anyone ever use this system?
Any feedback on High Gravity as a vendor?

Total cost is less than $300!



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Old 10-02-2011, 07:13 PM   #2
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I would be interested in this as well! I've been wanting to go electric for a while now so I can have the full operation in my basement!



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Old 10-02-2011, 09:03 PM   #3
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What I don't like about that control box is the fact you can't set a desired temperature and then just walk away. You have to use it like a burner and constantly monitor your temperature.
For the $185 that box costs, you could build a really nice one with PID and RTD sensor so that it will be all digital and hold your desired mash temps automatically.

The element is fine and is only about $15 more than building it yourself.

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Old 10-02-2011, 11:11 PM   #4
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Default Good points

You have a good point, Keith.

I mash in a cooler and only use single step infusion mashes with a batch sparge, so I'm only looking to use this for heating my strike and sparge water, and then boiling my wort.
(I sparge into 5 gal buckets, then pour them into the kettle, no fancy pumps for me!)

I'm a pretty simple AG brewer!

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Last edited by jma99; 10-02-2011 at 11:13 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 10-03-2011, 02:07 AM   #5
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If you don't need or want a pid then just drill a hole in your kettle, buy a 1" lock nut with oring from bargain fittings and install the element in the kettle using a 2 gang outlet box. Put a 20 amp rated switch on one of the hot legs of the 220 circuit and you are good to go.

The stainless 5500 watt ripp elements can be had for about $20, the element nuts and switches are just a couple bucks. The wires would probably be the most expensive part of the project.

Edit: actually just build a heatstick. You can move it from vessel to vessel as necessary. You do need a gfci though. Swap in a gfci breaker or wire in a 50 amp spa box from home depot (50 bucks). That adds considerably to the cost.

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Old 10-03-2011, 03:03 AM   #6
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Just a side note Im a brewer in tulsa ok. I go to High Gravity all the time and they are always professional. Great prices and great people. They have always worked with me no matter what the issue is! Highly recommend !

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Old 10-15-2011, 11:31 PM   #7
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Default Update and warning!

OK, I drilled the 1.25 inch hole to mount my heating element, and.......

My heavy commercial aluminum pot is too thick!
I can't get the retaining nut to compress the silicone washer enough to thread on the element.

I call High Gravity and talk to Steve, the owner. Steve tells me that this is the first he has heard of this problem. He offers me a GREAT deal on a new 15.5 gal SS pot, with a drain valve installed, and pre-drilled for my electric element.

I'm bummed that I can't brew this weekend, but excited that I'll be getting a new SS pot!

Kudos to High Gravity for helping me out!

Picts to come later once I fire up the system for the first time, hopefully next weekend!

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Old 10-15-2011, 11:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jma99 View Post
OK, I drilled the 1.25 inch hole to mount my heating element, and.......

My heavy commercial aluminum pot is too thick!
I can't get the retaining nut to compress the silicone washer enough to thread on the element.
...
I don't understand this. The element comes with a sealing washer at the base of the threads. You speak of a silicone sealing washer. Is that an additional washer that you are placing inside the kettle? If so, it is not needed. Just place the element with it standard washer in place and push it through the kettle wall. Then thread the lock nut in place. It should not be a problem if Im understanding the issue you ran into.

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Old 10-16-2011, 12:33 AM   #9
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I'm using a weld-less fitting that uses the washer on the inside of the pot, held in place by the grooved lock-nut. I just can't get the washer compressed enough to get the lock-nut to thread. There is no washer on the outside of the pot.

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Old 10-16-2011, 12:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jma99 View Post
I have a 15 gal pot that I want to convert to electric.
(I have a 220V outlet in the laundry room)

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=3084

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2514

http://www.highgravitybrew.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=2652

I'd like to be able to brew 10 gal batches inside during the winter, but don't want to burn down my house!

Anyone ever use this system?
Any feedback on High Gravity as a vendor?

Total cost is less than $300!
I'd be curious to see how many SSRs are inside of the box. If you get a chance could you take a picture inside that plasitc box?


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