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Old 01-16-2011, 05:47 PM   #1
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Default Anyone use a 240V 4500-5500W heatstick?

I'm designing an electric 10 Gallon brewery and I'm thinking of doing a 5500W 240V heatstick hooked to a PID or Brewtroller to heat the HLT and possibly boil. I'm looking at the Camco 02933 . Is this smart? Is this dumb? If I recirculate the HLT with a pump and if I recirculate the wort in the same way during the boil will I have any issues evenly heating and avoiding scorching? The rationale of the heatstick being I can either keep it in the HLT to heat up the mash water for a second batch and boil with propane or move it to the BK and boil with or without the RIMS tube...






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Old 01-16-2011, 05:55 PM   #2
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I use an element very similar to that to heat sparge and strike water as it flows in from the filtered source.

I would not use it for directly heating the wort since it is a high output, high density element and unless it's output is ramped way back or you have really high flowrates you are likely to caramelize a lot of your sugars.

I plan on using it in a HERMS setup since it will only need to directly contact water in this design i don't worry about scorching.

I should also add that I use propane for the boil, and don't plan to switch to all electric.

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Old 01-16-2011, 05:58 PM   #3
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The unit I've linked to I think is rated at 50W/sq in which is ULD, will I still be at risk of scorching wort? Also my hope is that if I am boiling all electric, that once I ramp up to a boil I could keep it going with the RIMS tube alone?

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Old 01-16-2011, 07:11 PM   #4
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Don't see how you can keep a BK of wort boiling by recirculating through a small rims tube. Never tried it but it does not sound like it can work.

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Old 01-16-2011, 08:03 PM   #5
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I'm using a 5500w heatstick in my boil kettle and could not love it more.

I'm using a low watt-density ripple element. There was a thread not too long ago experimenting with high watt-density elements and found scorching to be a non-issue, if I remember correctly.

I'm having some trouble finding the thread. Will post back when I do.

In the meantime, my heatstick:



-Joe

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Old 01-16-2011, 08:07 PM   #6
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Found it - I finally remembered the word "myth" in the title and it came right up: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/f-bs...usting-155982/

-Joe

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Old 01-16-2011, 08:43 PM   #7
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http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ulti...0-volt-116049/

Here's a link to mine, works fantastic
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:44 AM   #8
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Thanks guys! Again I have no problem using a ULD element so I'm not concerned about scorching so much. That heatstick is just about what I was thinking, glad to see someone else is using a similar setup.

Any thoughts on my basic premise? I'll probably adjust the vertical location of the kettles, not sure if I'll use a CFC or a plate chiller but that's my plan more or less.

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Old 01-17-2011, 04:42 AM   #9
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Don't be so quick to discount scorching if you use high density elements for your boil. I have and have had issues with scorching (light charcoal taste). If you are going to go full boil with your element, use a low density. Trust me. You won't like even a little charcoal in your beer.

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Old 01-17-2011, 02:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nostalgia View Post
I'm using a 5500w heatstick in my boil kettle and could not love it more.

I'm using a low watt-density ripple element. There was a thread not too long ago experimenting with high watt-density elements and found scorching to be a non-issue, if I remember correctly.

I'm having some trouble finding the thread. Will post back when I do.

In the meantime, my heatstick:



-Joe
So what kinda gasket did you change to? One of those tufsteel ones that doesn't warp?
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