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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Anyone with experience auto tuning auber PID?
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:49 PM   #21
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I've got a new rims tube set up and I'm trying to autotune it. So far I've tried to run Auto Tune a couple times with poor results and taking hours to Ron and never finishing. Well last night I decided to start auto tune and just let it run until it finished.. Right now it's been in the auto tune out for about 12 hours its holding a steady temperature of 154. I have the flow reduce real slow like I would if I were actually brewing.

Is this normal should I stop it?

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Old 12-11-2013, 03:32 PM   #22
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I was under the impression that once you've set the grain bed, you run full throttle while using a RIMS tube? Is that not right?

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Old 12-11-2013, 11:43 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgauthier20420 View Post
I was under the impression that once you've set the grain bed, you run full throttle while using a RIMS tube? Is that not right?
no, that most certainly will get you a stuck mash. I know from experience.

RIMS tube = slow re-circulation

I ran my auto tune last night and I couldn't get the thing above 149/150 that was at about 30% open I had to close the valve even more to get the temp higher.


I had my wife stop it for me and I think its now tuned enough to work in a real brewing situation.


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Old 12-12-2013, 08:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flomaster View Post
no, that most certainly will get you a stuck mash. I know from experience.

RIMS tube = slow re-circulation

I ran my auto tune last night and I couldn't get the thing above 149/150 that was at about 30% open I had to close the valve even more to get the temp higher.


I had my wife stop it for me and I think its now tuned enough to work in a real brewing situation.


-=Jason=-
I've read a few threads to where people run there's wide open and then I hear the opposite from others. It seems to be a system preference based on your false bottom and preventing channeling and other "stuck" issues. I guess I'll need to dial it in when I actually start using it.
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:13 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by rgauthier20420 View Post
I've read a few threads to where people run there's wide open and then I hear the opposite from others. It seems to be a system preference based on your false bottom and preventing channeling and other "stuck" issues. I guess I'll need to dial it in when I actually start using it.
as the mash settles you might need to open the valve up more, but right off the bat I don't think running wide open is a good idea. heck I wasn't wide open my last two brews and I got stuck mashes.

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Old 12-12-2013, 09:17 PM   #26
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as the mash settles you might need to open the valve up more, but right off the bat I don't think running wide open is a good idea. heck I wasn't wide open my last two brews and I got stuck mashes.

-=Jason=-
Sorry, a should have clarified more regarding the valve. I know you need to run the pump slow for a couple minutes to set the mash, but my understanding was you can open it up after that short period. I guess my thinking is mostly on for now at least. In practice, we will see.

BTW, what PID are you using?
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Old 12-12-2013, 09:50 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgauthier20420 View Post
Sorry, a should have clarified more regarding the valve. I know you need to run the pump slow for a couple minutes to set the mash, but my understanding was you can open it up after that short period. I guess my thinking is mostly on for now at least. In practice, we will see.

BTW, what PID are you using?
Auber SYL-2352

from what i've been told the suction on your inlet is relative to the outflow. wide open valve will produce more suction than a barely cracked open flow.

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Old 12-12-2013, 10:05 PM   #28
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Is the temperature sensor located immediately downstream of the heating element? If it's not, that system will be very difficult to tune.

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