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-   -   Any Major problems with this wiring plan? (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/any-major-problems-wiring-plan-243084/)

aludwig 05-01-2011 10:36 PM

Any Major problems with this wiring plan?
 
Does anyone see any glaring safety concerns with the following control panel wiring plan?

First let me explain what I am trying to do:
2-Tier 5 gallon all-grain single element electric system
BK = converted sankey keg
MLT/HLT = 10 gallon rubbermaid coolers
5500W element in the kettle
220v Gorman-Rupp magnetic pump
120v stir motor
The system will be fed from 30A GFI breaker in the main panel

Process
- Heat strike water in the kettle
- pump to MT while adding grains
- heat sparge water in the kettle (to mash temp)
- recirc through a removable 1/2" tube coil in the kettle
- raise temp to mashout
- pump sparge water to the HLT
- pump sparge water to sparge arm (in MT) while gravity drain to kettle
- boil

http://www.ludwignet.com/temp/ControlPanelWiring.JPG

Some of the choices I made were because I already have the watlow PIDs and power controller (gift from a guy in the industrial controls business), 24v power supply, 24v contactor, pump and stir motor. I would like to stay with the 240v 2-conductor line (dryer outlet) if possible, to save cost. However, I wasn't sure if this would work with the GFI - do you have to have a neutral to use the GFI? I mean the pigtail connects to the neutral in the main panel, but do I need to actually have a neutral running to my brew panel too? I was thinking that in a 2-pole setup it monitors the difference between the hots and ground or from hot to hot. Please correct me if I am wrong about this.

I guess one problem I already see is that the stir motor will not be GFI protected (because of the transformer). I could possibly skip this part and run a cord directly to a GFI outlet on the wall. I would appreciate any other thoughts you guys have.

samc 05-01-2011 11:08 PM

I can't really answer your questions, not an electrician. But I do have some questions. Where is the ground? How are you going to run 120v motor from a 220v without a neutral? Edit - never mind the last comment I see the transformer.

Inodoro_Pereyra 05-02-2011 12:29 AM

I agree with Samc on the stir motor. If it's a 120V motor, you should get rid of the transformer, and run it off one of the hot wires, and neutral. Adding a transformer doesn't give you any benefit, and just adds another piece of equipment that can fail, and an extra power loss (which means more mone on the electric bill) when it's working.

Other than that, I would put the yellow (heater) light right on the heater socket, so it shows when the heater is under power, not just the SSR.

aludwig 05-02-2011 12:40 AM

I left out the ground for simplicity. It will be there. The question really is, whether or not the neutral line is necessary, since I don't have one. The line is 2-conductor plus a ground (dryer outlet). The transformer is only needed because there is no neutral. I could re-run the line, and I may end up doing that, but I want to know if it is necessary.

aludwig 05-02-2011 12:45 AM

Also, I'm trying to source some cheap finger-safe options for the contact strips. Anyone have a line on something like that?

Inodoro_Pereyra 05-02-2011 01:17 AM

Are you sure your outlet is 2 hots+ground, and not 2 hots+neutral? Don't quote me on this, but I remember reading, somewhere on this forum, that 3 wire 240V outlets were 2 hots+neutral...

Anyway, is not hat the neutral is "necessary", but, the way I see it, if you can run it (in case you don't already have it), it makes sense to do so. It's always good practice to keep the equipment down to a minimum.

P-J 05-02-2011 01:35 AM

That is correct for dryer (30A) and range (50A) outlets prior to the last 2 major NEC updates. The neutral served the function of both the neutral and the ground conductor. The dryers and ranges both have 120V devices within them. Current code for new wiring to those appliances requires a 4 wire feed.

aludwig 05-02-2011 02:29 AM

Thanks for the info. I just assumed it was a ground wire because it isn't insulated. Either way, I would not use it to pull off 120V with no separate ground. I am a fan of simple solutions. I think in this case I will run the correct wire to the dryer outlet and redraw the wiring diagram to use 4-wire.

aludwig 05-02-2011 03:12 AM

Modified to use a 4-wire feed:
http://www.ludwignet.com/temp/Contro...-wire_feed.jpg

Inodoro_Pereyra 05-02-2011 04:21 AM

Looks good,
Can't believe I didn't realize you had wired your power supply on 240V in your first diagram... (where's a head slap smiley when you need it)


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