New Giveaway - Wort Monster Conical Fermeneter!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Any 120V Setups for 10 Gal Batch?




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-10-2010, 03:18 PM   #1
JJWP
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 85
Default Any 120V Setups for 10 Gal Batch?

So I've been lurking around various electric build posts for quite a while now, and I'm basically resigned to the fact that I would need 240V to go this route - which I do not have access to as I live in an old apartment building.

But, before I totally give up on this electric thing, I've got to at least ask:

Is there any reasonable way to boil 11-12 gallons on 120V?

- I'm not opposed to using multiple elements.
- I'm not opposed to waiting up to 60 minutes to get to boil from mash temps. I could spend that time cleaning equipment, etc
- I can wrap my keggle in reflectix insulation if that makes a difference
- I've got two dedicated 20amp circuits in the kitchen

The highest wattage 120V element I've been able to find online is this:
http://www.comfortgurus.com/product_info.php/products_id/7096

Would one of these do the job (barely)? Is the super high density nature of this element a no no?

I don't know anything about electrical and I'm not interested in monkeying around with anything complex. I basically just want to electrically heat my BK so I can brew in the kitchen year round.

I would never dream of doing the complex electrical work some of you guys do, but it seems to me that the heating element piece is generally straightforward and safe if one follows a few key principles? (ie proper grounding, redundant GFCI protection, correct element installation, appropriate wire gauge, etc)

Thanks



__________________
JJWP is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2010, 03:28 PM   #2
Bobby_M
Vendor and Brewer
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
 
Bobby_M's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 21,725
Liked 852 Times on 571 Posts
Likes Given: 26

Default

3000watts / 120v = 25 amps. No good. You can go with 2000 watt elements if you're sure that you can suspend any other usage on the 20a circuits. If your fridge is on one of them, you'll trip the breaker if you have the 2000 watt element running and the compressor kicks on.

I suspect even a single 2000w element used along with a stove burner would get a 10g boil going if you can fit the pot on there.



__________________
BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
Bobby_M is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2010, 03:51 PM   #3
JJWP
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 85
Default

yeah I can definitely dedicate the two 20a circuits. The fridge is on one, but I don't mind unplugging it for a few hours if I need to (just wont open it).

do you think that 4000 total watts (2x2000w elements) would be enough to get a good boil for 12gal?

__________________
JJWP is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2010, 03:55 PM   #4
JJWP
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 85
Default

I just went out and looked at the breaker box - there is a 50a breaker in there as well. I have no idea what it is for... the service main is a 100a switch btw.

__________________
JJWP is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2010, 04:01 PM   #5
TheAleMaster
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 208
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Default

Here is a great spreadsheet that should answer all your questions about how much power and time to boil, time to temperature x, etc.

http://gnipsel.com/beer/software/calculators/electric-heat.xls

It used to be at a different site, but the guy built a new site.

__________________
TheAleMaster is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2010, 04:06 PM   #6
JJWP
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 85
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAleMaster View Post
Here is a great spreadsheet that should answer all your questions about how much power and time to boil, time to temperature x, etc.

http://gnipsel.com/beer/software/calculators/electric-heat.xls

It used to be at a different site, but the guy built a new site.
This is great thank you! Anyone know how accurate these calculations are? Is 95% a realistic efficiency?
__________________
JJWP is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2010, 05:02 PM   #7
BargainFittings
Vendor
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
 
BargainFittings's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen TX
Posts: 1,835
Liked 37 Times on 32 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

The 50 amp is most likely your electric stove if you have one.

BargainFittings is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2010, 05:09 PM   #8
JJWP
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Bloomington, Indiana
Posts: 85
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BargainFittings View Post
The 50 amp is most likely your electric stove if you have one.
No, I've got a gas stove. I pulled it out and there is no electrical hookup behind it at all.. maybe it is not actually hooked up to an outlet?

Here is another question: if I understand it correctly, it is ok to run a 240v element on 120, but you will only get 25% of the rated wattage?

So, if I want to "future-proof" my 120v boiler, should I look for a single 8000w 240v element? That way, it would run at 2kw on 120v and at 8kw on 240 if I ever get access to a 240v circuit?

Good idea, bad idea?
__________________
JJWP is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2010, 06:46 PM   #9
passedpawn
Moderator
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
passedpawn's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: ☼ Clearwater, FL ☼
Posts: 17,471
Liked 2630 Times on 1696 Posts
Likes Given: 2138

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JJWP View Post
No, I've got a gas stove. I pulled it out and there is no electrical hookup behind it at all.. maybe it is not actually hooked up to an outlet?

Here is another question: if I understand it correctly, it is ok to run a 240v element on 120, but you will only get 25% of the rated wattage?

So, if I want to "future-proof" my 120v boiler, should I look for a single 8000w 240v element? That way, it would run at 2kw on 120v and at 8kw on 240 if I ever get access to a 240v circuit?

Good idea, bad idea?
It is perfectly OK to run that 240V element on 120.
__________________
Do not try and bend the spoon. That's impossible. Instead... only try to realize the truth. There is no spoon.
passedpawn is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-10-2010, 10:53 PM   #10
wilserbrewer
Vendor
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 7 reviews
 
wilserbrewer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jersey Shore, Jersey
Posts: 6,198
Liked 330 Times on 283 Posts
Likes Given: 7

Default

For ten gallons you will need at least 3000w, or better yet 4000w. 2 elements at 120v 2000w works well if limited to 120v...if you can do 240, no problem w/ a 4500w or even a 5500w.



__________________
wilserbrewer
BIAB Bags, Hop Bags and Ratchet Pulleys for sale

Expert tailor and supplier of custom sized, top quality BIAB bags, hop bags and ratchet pulleys at reasonable pricing

http://biabbags.webs.com/


CORONA MILL BUCKET SYSTEM V. 2.0
wilserbrewer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electrical Soldering setups, what do you have/what do you recommend Boerderij_Kabouter Electric Brewing 20 11-03-2010 06:43 PM



Newest Threads