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Old 07-15-2013, 01:08 PM   #1
reuliss
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Talking Another Wiring Diagram Request--Help much appreciated

I've been through all of PJ's diagrams that I could find on this site, but I'm looking to do something much simpler than most of those and I'm hoping someone here can help me.

I am running a 1500W RIMS tube. What I'm looking for is a wiring diagram for a very simple box that will have only anauber PID, SSR, indicator light for the element, and a receptacle for the heating element. That's it. My pump I will turn on and off separately similar to what's described in this thread:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/march-pump-wiring-switch-outlet-310309/

For the RIMS panel, I don't even need an on/off switch, since I would like simply to plug it in to an additional receptacle with a switch identical the one with the pump in the link above. I'm not worried about having the power to the element "linked" to the pump (i.e., so that it won't turn on if the pump isn't on). I want something simple like this because I've run into reliability issues with a more complicated build and, really, at this point I want to stop messing around with this stuff and just get back to brewing already. Can anyone please help me with this?



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Old 07-15-2013, 01:10 PM   #2
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Here you go. Just don't wire up the pump circuit. and the red line going from the SSR to the pump switch, just have that go directly to the element switch. Make sure your switch is rated for the power that will be going to the element.



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Old 07-15-2013, 02:17 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlbeer View Post
Here you go. Just don't wire up the pump circuit. and the red line going from the SSR to the pump switch, just have that go directly to the element switch. Make sure your switch is rated for the power that will be going to the element.

Yes, thank you!!!
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:07 PM   #4
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I started wiring this diagram, and I'm noticing that the terminal markings on the auber kit pieces that I bought don't seem to match the terminal markings on the switches in this diagram. The switches here use the NO/NC block. The switches I have do not. I bought the auber SW1 swtiches here:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&produc ts_id=223

The markings on the SW1 switches are diagramed here:

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/help-rims-controller-412746/

Could someone please translate for me the terminal markings on the switches in this diagram with the SW1s so that I know which wire to put where? I did my best to guess, but the panel didn't completely power up, so I'm getting that I've got some stuff in the wrong spots.

Any help much appreciated.

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Old 07-28-2013, 11:13 PM   #5
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The Auber manual (http://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/SW1_manual.pdf) will tell you which numbered terminals are the NO pair and which are the NC pair, though you can also determine that by simply looking through the clear plastic sides of the switch. Or you can use your multimeter (you do have one, don't you?).

NO is normally-open, and NC is normally-closed. "Normal" in this context means that the switch isn't pressed. "Closed" means there's a connection between the terminals, and "open" conversely means that there is no connection between them. So, with the switch not pressed, take your multimeter in ohms or continuity mode and probe the terminals. When you find two that have continuity (zero ohms, or very close to it), that's the NC pair. The other pair, by process of elimination, is the NO pair.

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Old 07-29-2013, 01:12 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danb35
The Auber manual (http://www.auberins.com/images/Manual/SW1_manual.pdf) will tell you which numbered terminals are the NO pair and which are the NC pair, though you can also determine that by simply looking through the clear plastic sides of the switch. Or you can use your multimeter (you do have one, don't you?).

NO is normally-open, and NC is normally-closed. "Normal" in this context means that the switch isn't pressed. "Closed" means there's a connection between the terminals, and "open" conversely means that there is no connection between them. So, with the switch not pressed, take your multimeter in ohms or continuity mode and probe the terminals. When you find two that have continuity (zero ohms, or very close to it), that's the NC pair. The other pair, by process of elimination, is the NO pair.
Thank you for the response. Unfortunately, I'm not really sure how to use the multimeter that way, but I did look at the manual you link but I don't see where it says which side is NO and which is NC.
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Old 07-29-2013, 01:34 PM   #7
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Just looked a little closer at the manual, and it turns out both pairs of contacts are NO. One pair is 13-14, the other pair is 23-24. You can use them interchangeably. X1 and X2 power the indicator light.

The easiest way to use your multimeter for this is if it has a continuity beeper. Set it to that mode, touch one lead to (say) terminal 13, and the other to terminal 14. With the switch "off" (that is, not pressed), you should get nothing. With the switch pressed, you should get a beep. If your meter doesn't have a continuity beeper (which would surprise me if it's a digital model), just use the ohms mode. With the switch on, you should have zero ohms (or very close to zero) between 13 and 14, and between 23 and 24.



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