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Old 08-26-2014, 11:31 PM   #51
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Default Amps vs wattage question

[quote=Zibe;6326723]Ok thanks again for feedback.

I bought a 20a switch and gfi outlet but tested the outlet I want to use and it switches off when I push the test button and when I use the gfi tester that I have on the gfi outlet that it apparently runs off. I will return the gfi outlet and use a regular 20a one since it appears I am covered by that first gfi outlet.

As for the cord.... I only need a couple feet to connect my brewstand to the wall outlet. I looked at the extension cords and they are pricey is there any issue just using the 12/3 awg type stuff like that is coming off my breakers and putting a plug on it? I know it will be stiffer than an extension cord but any issues other than that?

Once again thanks for the help





[\quote]I'm having a hard time trying to highlight and the quoted text



If I understand correctly. You pushed the test button on the GFCI outlet and the circuit turned off. That is what is suppose to happen.



On the 12 gauge three wire. I think, could be wrong, but think you can find that in a flexible jacket. I wouldn't use standard semi-flexible house wiring.



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Old 08-26-2014, 11:48 PM   #52
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If you want flexible and only need two feet, you could adapt this

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Tasco-2-ft-...491/100635352/



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Old 08-27-2014, 03:37 AM   #53
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Helibrewer
Where'd you find that element? From what I understand rims requires low or ultra low density but in the kettle it's not an issue to use high watt density and scorching is a myth I was actually thinking something like this with a stainless nut and high heat Oring
imageuploadedbyhome-brew1409110649.632972.jpg


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Old 08-27-2014, 03:47 AM   #54
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Dan
Yeah was gonna put gfi right at the brew stand but guys here helped me to figure out I already had one on the circuit and didn't need another pushing the buttons to verify they were on the same circuit.
Also got the cord that was recommended by da 10mm kid that worked out well think it's sjoow 12/3 wire or something like that should be on one of the previous pages
Thanks for the input though


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Old 08-27-2014, 04:34 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zibe View Post
Helibrewer
Where'd you find that element? From what I understand rims requires low or ultra low density but in the kettle it's not an issue to use high watt density and scorching is a myth I was actually thinking something like this with a stainless nut and high heat Oring
Attachment 220286


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That's identical to the element I'm using.

I was looking for the SS LWD type too, but there wasn't any local and once I got excited about the project, I didn't want to wait for delivery.

That being said, I am getting a buildup on the element. It's hard, yet comes off easily with scotch-brite. It might be calcium? from the city hard water.
(I generally use 50/50 RO/filtered fridge water).

I've used it on at least a dozen batches. Again, not for the full 60min boil, just a boost to the propane.

I just used mine Sunday to heat the sparge water with the pot sitting on the picnic table which I thought was pretty cool. Getting my AG feet wet while still holding onto the easy-peasy extract method.

'da Kid
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Old 08-27-2014, 11:54 AM   #56
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Yeah I'm slowly plodding towards an all electric biab system with heat control and a pump one step at a time. Batch sparging has been working fine but tired of being off a few degrees every time I dough in. Actually last few batches I've hit all my numbers exactly, that's when I knew I should switch to something totally different. I'm getting impatient with the element as well I can order that one I posted wait 2 weeks and pay $5 or they have the same one made by Rheem in stock for $9.99. But really I'm in no hurry still not exactly sure which way I want to go to house the element and ground the pot. I like the idea of a stainless element but it's more expensive and I know I read somewhere that boiling in copper is good for yeast health but that may have been posted by a French model so who knows....bonjour.


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