Amps vs wattage question

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I have since replaced the 15a wall outlet to 20a (even bought a small piece of 12gauge solid wire to compare it and it was) I even pulled my gfi to look at the wires and even though it doesn't have the horizontal post it says on it that it's 20a.

Question: the outlet that I replaced was in a series to another one so the next one is probably a 15a outlet does this affect anything? The wiring coming in and leaving was all 12 gauge. Don't think so but figured I'd check.
To replace the outlet I just pulled one wire at a time and put them on the new outlet in the same spot easy.
I then tested it with this dealio and each outlet lit up the right lights and the gfi tripped on both.
Sweeeeet.


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Forgot to add dealio pic ImageUploadedByHome Brew1408991225.228378.jpg


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One thing to watch out for with existing 15A/120V receptacles is to inspect for, and not use, any spring-loaded back-wire connections. The spring-loaded connections have holes in the receptacle rear for wire insertion but only use spring tension for solid electrical contact; ie. tightening the side screw has no relation to the spring-loaded contacts. Don't trust these spring-loaded connections, especially for daisy-chained receptacles.
 
Never even heard of those but the old one I replaced had the wires wrapped around the screw I'm pretty sure the other ones are the same. The new one I used I also wrapped around the post. I was just concerned that if I run 20a power to my element if that power is a problem going through a 15a outlet to get there or if there was one afterwards. What if something is plugged into the outlet either before or after that is not rated for 20a?



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If you plug in a device that only draws 2 amps, then it only draws 2 amps.
 
Didn't think it was a problem but just checking thank you


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Dang it! I should have done it anyway I thought about it and figured even if I did it wouldn't hurt. Ah well I'll fix it tomorrow I just need to jump another one from the wire nut to the post in each box no biggie. Thanks once again. I even waited in lowes for the "electrician" to get from lunch to ask that question.

I can't be mad though because yesterday I went in there for two more feet of that 12/3 cable and the guy just grabbed a ton of it cut it marked "2" as quantity on the sticker and sent me on my way. I got about 12 feet for about $2.50. If it was a mistake I would have corrected him (try to be honest) but for whatever reason he very deliberately gave me 12 ft for the price of 2. So the six feet section I had will be the element cord and this new piece hooks my boxes up giving me more room. Saaaweeeeet.


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Alright fixed the grounding issues by following this diagram exactly:
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1409089429.582499.jpg

This is the final product:
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1409089475.287200.jpg

Plugged the contraption into the outlet the switch turned a light on and off, the tester showed the correct lights, the gfi tripped when I tested that, I didn't get shocked nor has the fire department been needed. Thanks for the help I know this was a fairly simple deal but I couldn't have done it without the assistance. Da kid is da man.......

Now let's talk elements....


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Zibe said:
Alright fixed the grounding issues by following this diagram exactly:
View attachment 220194

This is the final product:
View attachment 220198

Plugged the contraption into the outlet the switch turned a light on and off, the tester showed the correct lights, the gfi tripped when I tested that, I didn't get shocked nor has the fire department been needed. Thanks for the help I know this was a fairly simple deal but I couldn't have done it without the assistance. Da kid is da man.......

Now let's talk elements....


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Click to expand...

I have been able to find a 2000W, 120V LWD element, it's standing by if and when my 1650 in the RIMs tube ever goes.
 
Zibe said:
Ok thanks again for feedback.

I bought a 20a switch and gfi outlet but tested the outlet I want to use and it switches off when I push the test button and when I use the gfi tester that I have on the gfi outlet that it apparently runs off. I will return the gfi outlet and use a regular 20a one since it appears I am covered by that first gfi outlet.

As for the cord.... I only need a couple feet to connect my brewstand to the wall outlet. I looked at the extension cords and they are pricey is there any issue just using the 12/3 awg type stuff like that is coming off my breakers and putting a plug on it? I know it will be stiffer than an extension cord but any issues other than that?

Once again thanks for the help





[\quote]I'm having a hard time trying to highlight and the quoted text



If I understand correctly. You pushed the test button on the GFCI outlet and the circuit turned off. That is what is suppose to happen.



On the 12 gauge three wire. I think, could be wrong, but think you can find that in a flexible jacket. I wouldn't use standard semi-flexible house wiring.



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Cheers!

Kana
Click to expand...
 
Helibrewer
Where'd you find that element? From what I understand rims requires low or ultra low density but in the kettle it's not an issue to use high watt density and scorching is a myth I was actually thinking something like this with a stainless nut and high heat Oring
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1409110649.632972.jpg


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Dan
Yeah was gonna put gfi right at the brew stand but guys here helped me to figure out I already had one on the circuit and didn't need another pushing the buttons to verify they were on the same circuit.
Also got the cord that was recommended by da 10mm kid that worked out well think it's sjoow 12/3 wire or something like that should be on one of the previous pages
Thanks for the input though


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Zibe said:
Helibrewer
Where'd you find that element? From what I understand rims requires low or ultra low density but in the kettle it's not an issue to use high watt density and scorching is a myth I was actually thinking something like this with a stainless nut and high heat Oring
View attachment 220286


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Click to expand...

That's identical to the element I'm using.

I was looking for the SS LWD type too, but there wasn't any local and once I got excited about the project, I didn't want to wait for delivery.

That being said, I am getting a buildup on the element. It's hard, yet comes off easily with scotch-brite. It might be calcium? from the city hard water.
(I generally use 50/50 RO/filtered fridge water).

I've used it on at least a dozen batches. Again, not for the full 60min boil, just a boost to the propane.

I just used mine Sunday to heat the sparge water with the pot sitting on the picnic table which I thought was pretty cool. Getting my AG feet wet while still holding onto the easy-peasy extract method.

'da Kid
 
Yeah I'm slowly plodding towards an all electric biab system with heat control and a pump one step at a time. Batch sparging has been working fine but tired of being off a few degrees every time I dough in. Actually last few batches I've hit all my numbers exactly, that's when I knew I should switch to something totally different. I'm getting impatient with the element as well I can order that one I posted wait 2 weeks and pay $5 or they have the same one made by Rheem in stock for $9.99. But really I'm in no hurry still not exactly sure which way I want to go to house the element and ground the pot. I like the idea of a stainless element but it's more expensive and I know I read somewhere that boiling in copper is good for yeast health but that may have been posted by a French model so who knows....bonjour.


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