Kegconnection Complete Starter Kit and More Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Almost Complete (W/Pictures)

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-20-2012, 02:13 AM   #1
rollinred
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, MI
Posts: 327
Liked 10 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default Almost Complete (W/Pictures)

Set out to build a simple one element system that could be expanded to a two element system. I intend to use this kettle as both the HLT and boil kettle. Later moving to a 15-20 gallon Boil kettle for larger batches.

I still have a few things to figure out.

1. how to mount the element. I would like to do a tri-clover setup in the end but I broke myself doing this project already. I do not like the Kal method at all, and I am not even sure I could get a good seal with how much curvature the kettle has. I might have an idea that plays off of the Kal method though.
2. Getting the PID running right. I don't know what I don't have set right but the PID is constantly sending signal to the SSR. I have checked my wiring and don't think that is the issue. I have to believe it is something in the PID setting.
3. When I am going to finally have this thing done.

I have been doing this "behind the scene" because I didn't want to ask the simple questions until I was nearly done.

Last, I have no idea how to post pictures here so don't be surprised if it doesn't work right.

P.S., Thumbs up for the person who notices my mistake!

img_3483.jpg   img_3484.jpg   img_3485.jpg   img_3494.jpg   img_3497.jpg  

__________________
rollinred is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2012, 02:15 AM   #2
rollinred
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, MI
Posts: 327
Liked 10 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Kettle and stuff

img_3499.jpg   img_3500.jpg   img_3501.jpg   img_3503.jpg   img_3504.jpg  

__________________
rollinred is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2012, 07:53 PM   #3
audger
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: ., Connecticut
Posts: 1,497
Liked 40 Times on 40 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

for mounting the element, most threaded elements are 1" NPS, so you can get a 1" half coupling and weld or solder it into the kettle. if you werent going tri-clover, that is the way i would prefer. other options would be to use washers and a locknut on the inside and just put the element thru a hole in the side. that has its obvious downfalls on a curved surface though.

for #2, it could be that the PID is set for cooling, where you want heating. or the setpoint is simply lower than the input temp. also check the polarity on the PID-to-SSR wires. its a DC signal (usually), so it matters.

__________________
audger is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-20-2012, 08:06 PM   #4
rollinred
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, MI
Posts: 327
Liked 10 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

It appears that everything is running right. The RTD was reading the same as a thermometer I placed in a glass of ice water. I will have to check on the setting for cooling or heating, but it wasn't switching on or off at all. it was sending power constantly no matter where the set point was. Could easily be user error though.

__________________
rollinred is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-23-2012, 04:50 AM   #5
rollinred
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, MI
Posts: 327
Liked 10 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

I found a MUCH improved way to mount a heating element vs. the Kal method. So everything is pretty much complete....

Except for the fact that I can not get this PID running right. I have no idea what I am doing wrong but my element is firing in a nearly continuous fashion. I have it set for the RTD (21), but when I press the A/M button nothing happens at any time. So I have no idea whether I am in Auto or manual.

More than likely I am just doing something wrong.

__________________
rollinred is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-23-2012, 11:19 AM   #6
jbsengineer
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 350
Liked 8 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rollinred View Post
I found a MUCH improved way to mount a heating element vs. the Kal method. So everything is pretty much complete....

Willing to share?
__________________
Electric Brewery Build
jbsengineer is offline
codfishboys Likes This 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-23-2012, 12:17 PM   #7
vaheel
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wise, VA
Posts: 88
Default

I would like to ask where you got your switches and what are the dimensions of your control panel?

__________________
vaheel is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-23-2012, 03:49 PM   #8
rollinred
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, MI
Posts: 327
Liked 10 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default My Element Mount

This is the "improved Kal mount" as most of the idea was taken from Kal just improved on. I want to mention that I did mock up one of Kals method of mounting and installed it several times.

I had leaks and also used a meter to test the ground and in several instances the element was not grounding! This is NOT good. It does this because the O-ring doesn't "squish" enough to make contact with the kettle body, AND using the silicon that is required to prevent leakage in to the electrical box can cause a situation where no contact between the base of the element and the box. Keep in mind this is a rare condition but it can happen.

Not to mention, if you take the element out of the kettle there is a good chance you have to re-do the silicon inside the electrical box.

The design I came up with allows you to take the element out every time withing a few seconds BUT, it does require a couple of spot welds as seen on other builds because it is welded to the outside of the box. I am sure you have seen designs like this but I have yet to see one that is like this in the outdoor water resistant box, only in the cheaper galvanized boxes. You all should be able to come up with someone you know that has access to a MIG welder that can put a couple tacks on. If not, I am sure a weld shop only charges a small fee for a job this small.

Everything behind the stainless plate is siliconed and no water can get in the back side. You do not need to big washer that is used in the Kal method to stop the o-ring from squeezing out, it won't do that in this connection. Instead I used the washer inside the Kettle to stop the nut from scraping the kettle wall.

The pictures suck because I can't figure out how to use this fancy camera and my wife can't find the charger for her other camera.

If you need more details or pictures let me know. I will certainly get them.

dscn1009.jpg   dscn1010.jpg   dscn1011.jpg   dscn1012.jpg  
__________________
rollinred is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-23-2012, 04:03 PM   #9
rollinred
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Traverse City, MI
Posts: 327
Liked 10 Times on 7 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vaheel View Post
I would like to ask where you got your switches and what are the dimensions of your control panel?
Switches are from automation direct. I will get you the dimensions of the control box this evening.
__________________
rollinred is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Old 01-24-2012, 05:01 AM   #10
IndyRob
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 25
Default

Looks good! I like how you improved on the method to mount the element.

I have been working with aluminum pots and have found that they flex enough to enable a good seal by just using washers and a bit of teflon tape when things are snugged tight enough. Does the SS pot flex any?

__________________
IndyRob is offline
 
Quick reply to this message
Closed Thread


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electric BIAB setup - complete! Psych Electric Brewing 39 01-07-2014 02:17 PM
Soldering a 1" Lock Nut to Sanke Keg, with Pictures Quaffer Electric Brewing 48 01-31-2012 06:28 PM
Beta test complete, need some help. mavrick1903 Electric Brewing 1 09-24-2011 11:45 AM
Control Box? Old Computer? Complete Noob jdlev Electric Brewing 15 05-24-2011 03:14 PM
Question about my dryer outlet and a 3500watt element (w pictures) rtt121 Electric Brewing 24 11-10-2010 06:41 PM