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I'll post some pictures later tonight of my finished hood.

Costs are approximate:
$32 - FRP
$ 5 - Lath screws
$12 - 2x4's
$14 - Plywood half-sheet
$12 - Vinyl J-Channel
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$76

Cut two plywood end caps that are half-circles with a 15.25" radius. This dimension allows the 4' end of the FRP sheet to be fully utilized.

Cut your FRP pieces to match your end caps. I screwed rectangular pieces of FRP to the plywood end caps then routered around the edges to get the FRP lined up with the plywood as closely as possible. Probably best to cut your duct hole in one end cap before attaching FRP, then jigsaw or router out FRP in hole.

Your larger piece of FRP should be 66.5" (96" - 30.5") long by 48" wide. With someone assisting start at bottom of your half-circle plywood end cap and screw the 48" side of the FRP into it every 6 inches or so.

Once that is done, drop your 2x4 rectangular frame onto the hood. At this point you can work in your J-Channel between the FRP and 2x4's to catch condensation.

I've not determined yet how I'm going to seal the J-Channel mitered joints, so any suggestions would be great.

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A couple more pics. Mostly done, but the J-Channel isn't attached permanently yet.

Junkster

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I like it - I'm thinking of making something similar.....

Bathtub silicone might work for sealing the corners of the j-channel.

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I've have some latex bathroom caulking for sealing those joints but I'm tempted to use more J-Channel and a torch to patch in the corners. Totally impractical but it does mean I get to play with fire and molten plastic.

I had the better part of two FRP sheets, so I was able to actually make a 6.5' hood for $35 or so with the stuff I had on hand.

I don't have a vortex fan yet so it's not going to be hooked up for another week or so, but I'm looking forward to getting it in-place and finishing up my electric setup with some 30-gallon kettles!

Junkster

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Do you think that the j-channels will fill to the point of overflowing? Most restaurant commercial hoods I've seen have the channels pitched to a single low spot with a removable cup that catches the runoff which can be easily taken out and emptied.

ToV

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I would be you could run them at a slight slope, then run a vinyl tube from the low spot to a drain. (I assume since he is putting in a hood there will be a drain location of some sort). Then make sure it is good and siliconed shut.

I also would bet with a good air flow they channels will not not overflow (unless it is a reduce 15 gallons to 6.5 boil) but if they aren't drained it will still be a lovely place for mold.

To the original poster, please keep us posted on how it works. I am planning a brewery upgrade when I move (1-2 years) and this kind of work will be needed (depending on where it is located I might have to dress it up a little).

Junkster

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Yeah, I was thinking of a drain tube but I hadn't considered the mold factor. Mine's in a basement where things tend to get moldy in the summer anyway, but since I've installed an exhaust fan it's helped.

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I hope to have it relatively level and put a vinyl drain tube in one corner. The channels are 1/2" deep.

That in conjunction with a 450+ CFM exhaust fan would ideally keep the moisture in the channels to a minimum. An occasional spray of bleach-water around the bottom interior hood/channel should help?

Junkster

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Yeah, I think you're on the right track! Cheers...

freeokw

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Looking forward to updates