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Old 09-20-2011, 10:32 PM   #21
ShakerD
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Thanks!

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Old 09-25-2011, 03:33 PM   #22
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Recipe is a simple Amarillo/Centenial IPA.
9 lbs 2Row
2 lbs Munich
1 lb Crystal 60
60 min Amarillo 1oz
30 min Amarillo 1oz
dry hop with Amarillo 1oz and Centenial 1oz

Realized I never did post the results of this brew.

It turned out really nice. The malt-bitterness is where my palate likes it. The only thing that I can say is that I would do differently is use 1/2 as much Munich or sub it with something else all together next time (It is faint, but I dislike the level of biscuit I am getting from the Munich).

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Old 10-07-2011, 12:33 AM   #23
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I copied this setup almost exactly (including the EE overconfidence in electricity control box setup). I did find that the Fiesta Mart pots are fairly flimsy and I've had some issues with bumping my weldless fitting ball valve, bending the pot slightly, and causing a slow leak. I'm moving everything over to a keggle this weekend though so it's not really an issue.

Do you use a hop bag / spider of any sort or just throw the leaves / pellets directly into the boil? If you toss em right in, do you do anything special to strain them out when transferring to your fermenter?

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Old 10-07-2011, 01:02 AM   #24
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I have had no issues with the pot so far.... I suspect that at some point I will upgrade.

I am a bit cramped on a 10 gallon IPA, so maybe a move to a 80 or 100qt aluminum pot will happen.... but somehow I suspect then I will be complaining about my 15 gallon batch not fitting....

I toss the hops (whatever I can get, but usually pellets) directly into the boil. I do not do anything to strain them out.... with leaf hops the steamer false bottom will actually catch most of the leaves and only a few make it into the fermenter.

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Old 11-13-2011, 10:17 PM   #25
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I have had no issues with the pot so far....
If you are using this pot, be sure to add standoffs to the bottom of the pot, such that the weight of the grains is not entirely on the edge of the pot. My pot eventually self destructed. It is an ultra low cost option, and nothing better than that.

see http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/warn...n-biab-276854/ for details.


LUCKILY.... Austin Homebrew Supply had their 88qt stainless on sale for $79.00 last week and I picked one up.

It was converted with my element and ballvalve last Friday and I put two 10g batches thru it last Saturday.
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Old 11-25-2011, 04:10 PM   #26
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Have you had any problems with the PID? I purchased the same one and the instructions are less than helpful

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Old 11-25-2011, 04:26 PM   #27
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The only issue that I had with the PID, was that out of the box it would not power on. A quick ebay email and they told me that sometimes the board inside comes unseated in travel. With a replug I was underway.....

What problems are you seeing?

This is all I had for a manual.

http://mightyohm.com/wiki/_media/res...adjustment.pdf

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Old 12-08-2011, 03:19 PM   #28
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Great writeup! Does anyone know if the 5500W ULDs can directly touch a fully loaded voile bag without burning through?

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Old 10-31-2012, 08:25 PM   #29
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Hi howabouttheiris,

I noticed you have a pump and recirc the wort. To improve clarity if you recirced the water through the bag after you had pulled it out, while it was dangling, do you think the pulled out bag would filter the wort? I was thinking that it might since it is already pulled out and wont be jossled and leak all the fine filtered material.

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Old 11-01-2012, 01:08 PM   #30
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To improve clarity if you recirced the water through the bag after you had pulled it out, while it was dangling, do you think the pulled out bag would filter the wort?
It probably would help anything in suspension. For me, it was not worth the manipulation of hot hoses.

I actually find that by the end of cooling, the fine particles for the most part settle to the bottom under the pickup. By the time the wort drains down to the pickup there is maybe 1-2 quarts that I need to be careful with. I usually just dump the best of it off and take a small sub-quart loss. It will just settle out in fermentation.
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