Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Last Sponsor Giveaway of the Year!

Come Enter the BrewDeals/FastFerment Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > 4 elements, 4 SSRs, 2 PIDs
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 11-09-2012, 02:26 AM   #11
BadNewsBrewery
Basement Brewer
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
BadNewsBrewery's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Severn, MD
Posts: 1,144
Liked 116 Times on 95 Posts
Likes Given: 55

Default

My comment on combined draw was not regarding the elements but the PID output. The SSR coils draw some amount of power and I'm sure the PID output isn't huge. Sounds like 2 SSRs is doable though.

I still find it odd that you have three circuits run to one room in your house. Did you have extras installed?

__________________
Building a Bad News Brewery - eHERMS

2014:
5gal Scottish Wee Heavy
5gal Saison
15gal American Pale Ale
20gal Belgian Wit
10gal Oktoberfest
10gal Southern Pecan Ale

Keg 1: Apfelwein
Keg 2: Oktoberfest
Keg 3: Southern Pecan

On Deck: Winter Spice Ale
BadNewsBrewery is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2012, 02:34 AM   #12
jeffmeh
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
jeffmeh's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,870
Liked 144 Times on 125 Posts
Likes Given: 19

Default

Yes, it makes sense to me. I would emulate the 3 position switch setup Kal uses to ensure that you never try to fire all four elements at once, but I would simplify as much as possible. For example, you could just use 2 inexpensive switches (household light switches, even) to control the 2 pumps. You have some very interesting planning ahead.

__________________
jeffmeh is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2012, 02:48 AM   #13
Garyr2973
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 184
Liked 16 Times on 12 Posts

Default

Oh they aren't to one room. One goes out to the garage (where ill be brewing) the second is the outside circuit for the outlet on the back of the house and the third ill run out of the house with a cord.

__________________
Garyr2973 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2012, 09:53 AM   #14
BadNewsBrewery
Basement Brewer
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
BadNewsBrewery's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Severn, MD
Posts: 1,144
Liked 116 Times on 95 Posts
Likes Given: 55

Default

Gotcha, makes more sense now. Don't forget to look into power loss over distance for various size extension cords and get one bigger than you need to cut down resistance. Your idea shod work though.

__________________
Building a Bad News Brewery - eHERMS

2014:
5gal Scottish Wee Heavy
5gal Saison
15gal American Pale Ale
20gal Belgian Wit
10gal Oktoberfest
10gal Southern Pecan Ale

Keg 1: Apfelwein
Keg 2: Oktoberfest
Keg 3: Southern Pecan

On Deck: Winter Spice Ale
BadNewsBrewery is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2012, 12:34 PM   #15
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,283
Liked 259 Times on 207 Posts
Likes Given: 454

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyr2973 View Post
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I actually didn't think about wiring the elements in parallel but that's a great idea. I will get a bigger SSR and heat sink to match. I'd love to just go with a single bigger element but due to only having 120v, I think a single element would take forever to get water/wort to a boil. I thought about going to a single 3000w element in the HLT then adding a RIMS to help it out but I guess that won't help heating spathe and mash water will it?
Please let me weigh in a little bit. /\ You only have 120V power available. You are planning on using 3000W elements. If those elements are 120V rated elements each will draw 25A which is more than a 120V circuit can handle. If they are 240V rated elements they will only provide 750W when run on a 120V circuit. This will defeat your whole plan.

I suggest that you plan on using 1700W 120V elements bostonheatingsupply.com - SP10874KL as they will draw 14.2A each. With 2-120V circuits available this will make your system very doable. You will have enough power to have a decent boil.

BTW, if you need a diagram for such a set up, it's not all that hard to do.
__________________
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-09-2012, 11:47 PM   #16
Garyr2973
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 184
Liked 16 Times on 12 Posts

Default

PJ- thank you. Your input is appreciated as always. The 3000w were 120V so yes that would put me over the 20amps. I know you make some great diagrams. I would understand it if it was 1 element and could probably figure it out but if its not too much trouble I would definitely not turn down your assistance.

__________________
Garyr2973 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
$20 PIDs vrs Auberins $45 PIDs? bellinmi88 Electric Brewing 6 06-14-2012 03:45 PM
SSRs are for Chumps craley1 Brew Stands 10 08-27-2010 08:31 PM
Switching power between elements/PIDs possible? Rhino17 Brew Stands 47 05-14-2009 02:10 PM
How do PIDs/SSRs work? illin8 Equipment/Sanitation 11 05-08-2009 11:22 PM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS