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-   -   3E Brewery going ELECTRIC!!! (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/3e-brewery-going-electric-202203/)

EuBrew 10-23-2010 07:05 PM

3E Brewery going ELECTRIC!!!
 
First things first I need to thank Ohio-Ed and CodeRage for the inspiration and excellent documentation of Ed's build. There are too many other HBT members that I've stolen ideas from (Pickles hop stopper) that if you feel left out I'm sorry, but thanks for letting me steal!

It's time to begin the marathon brew rig build!

Got most of my electric parts and gadgets in the mail over the last few weeks, keggles are in the garage ready to be sliced and diced.

Here's my stash from automation direct
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...021_181928.jpg

SSR's and goodies for BrewTroller
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...021_182109.jpg

One of the 2 chugger pumps I'll be using
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...021_182142.jpg

and the 16x20x8 Stainless Enclosure I scored for $60 shipped from fleabay:rockin:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...021_182037.jpg

More pics and tons of questions to come! Thanks for all your help HBT!!!:mug:

EuBrew 10-23-2010 07:29 PM

250VAC contactor OOPS?
 
First question. I screwed up when I ordered my contactor for my E-Stop and I got a 3 Pole with a 220V coil.
The contactor I got has an AC1 rating of 50A and an AC3 rating of 32A. Since the majority of the load at any given time is from the elements I think this will work.

I think I can make this work by not using the third set of contacts and energizing the coil with 250 like shown in the drawing. Below are pics of the contactor and a drawing. If the drawing looks familiar I stole it from Ohio-Ed and modified to fit my system (thanks Ed!!!!). Does this drawing look right?? Thanks!!!
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...-model-001.jpg

the contactor
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...021_182010.jpg

the coil
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...021_181953.jpg

Ohio-Ed 10-23-2010 09:20 PM

EuBrew, you're welcome.

I'm glad you're able to get something out of the HBT collaboration that went into my build.

I think you should be ok with the 220v contactor coil but the circuit will depend on the rating of the R1 relay contacts. Just make sure R1 is rated for 220v.

I'm very interested to follow your progress... I was back and forth on using a BCS-460 or Brewtroller.

Ed

EuBrew 10-23-2010 10:34 PM

I'm pretty sure I have the same relay and base CodeRage recommended for your build on pose #85 from your thread.

I know the coil is rated for 120V which is why I have the drawing at the coil the same as yours with L2 and neutral going to the coil. The base says 5A @ 250VAC, see pic below.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...023_174415.jpg

Does this mean the base can handle 250 vac?? This is where I'm getting confused. IF this is the case is the drawing correct with getting 250V at the main contactor?

Ohio-Ed 10-24-2010 02:00 PM

It looks like the relay in your pic has "120vac" on the plastic wrapping on the coil. Are you sure you have the QM2N1-A220 relay?

Your base should be fine. If you have the 220v relay, your drawing should be fine.

Ed

Sawdustguy 10-24-2010 02:12 PM

I see EuBrew is a fellow AutoCad user also.

EuBrew 10-24-2010 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed (Post 2358500)
It looks like the relay in your pic has "120vac" on the plastic wrapping on the coil. Are you sure you have the QM2N1-A220 relay?

Your base should be fine. If you have the 220v relay, your drawing should be fine.

Ed

No I do have the QM2N1-A120. This is what is a little confusing for me. The base is rated at 250VAC @ 5A correct? The coil requires 120VAC to energize correct? This is the way I have the drawing. 220 coming to the contacts L1 and L2 for the base and 120 across the coil L2 and Neutral. I'm going to start adding the other components to the drawing today hopefully I can get the relay thing sorted out.

EDIT: I just realized I neglected to order my 2A breaker for the E-Stop circuit and the selector switch for the BK/HLT so I think to make my life easier I'll just order a new contactor with a 120V coil, new drawings to come.

Sawdustguy, yes I also "use" AutoCad. I'm not very proficient, but I can wade through some 2D drawings.

Ohio-Ed 10-24-2010 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuBrew (Post 2358586)
No I do have the QM2N1-A120. This is what is a little confusing for me. The base is rated at 250VAC @ 5A correct? The coil requires 120VAC to energize correct? This is the way I have the drawing. 220 coming to the contacts L1 and L2 for the base and 120 across the coil L2 and Neutral. I'm going to start adding the other components to the drawing today hopefully I can get the relay thing sorted out.

EDIT: I just realized I neglected to order my 2A breaker for the E-Stop circuit and the selector switch for the BK/HLT so I think to make my life easier I'll just order a new contactor with a 120V coil, new drawings to come.

Sawdustguy, yes I also "use" AutoCad. I'm not very proficient, but I can wade through some 2D drawings.

My bad... looks like you are golden. My reply this morning was from my bad memory (thinking you had 220v R1 instead of 220v coil on the contactor).

So, your base is fine, R1 and your drawing should be fine.

FYI... Not sure what your electrical requirements are, but I ended up with a contactor from AuberIns.com;
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_ id=164

Ed

EuBrew 10-24-2010 03:52 PM

I thought the drawing was right, but I'm still going to go ahead and get the 120V contactor to make life a little easier since I have to place another order with automation direct anyway.

Thanks Ed!

EuBrew 10-27-2010 02:11 AM

BrewTroller Experts HELP!!
 
UPDATE: Well kind of......

I've been working on converting the drawing I stole from Ed's BCS-460 build to my BrewTroller build and I'm having a hard time wrapping my brain around how BrewTroller interfaces with the 3 Position selector switches for my heating elements, and how to run my pumps power from the breaker to BrewTroller for it to control through the 3 position selector switches as well.

I'm good wiring my 12VDC valves and 12VDC stir motor for my HEX through the relay board, but again interfacing the board with the switches is giving me a headache, these will be on off on toggle switches.

Here's what I have for drawings.

First is something that is actually done! My control panel layout. The textured outline is the foam on the back side of the panel.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...2/3EPanel1.jpg

Next is my main drawing. I think I'm pretty solid on my high voltage wiring but if anyone sees anything alarming let me know. The low voltage is giving me a headache like I said.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...ape-Model1.jpg

Finally I have a breakout drawing of 1 output of the 16 Port Relay board showing wiring for a valve. I'm a little lost how to wire the DPDT on off on toggle from the three pin header. The drawing shows one of the heat output headers as well, still confused how this corresponds to the 3 Position Selector Switches. I think I've got the wiring for the SSR's correct but please take a look in the main drawing.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_W68UV67TIo0/TM...ing-Model1.jpg

Long and short, I'm progressing but I need some direction on how BrewTroller interfaces with the switches. If I were just wiring the switches without BrewTroller I'd be fine, the low voltage is confusing the crap out of me!

Just looked a the pic of the drawing and it's too small to see :mad: I have a PDF but it's 37KB. Crap, any ideas how to attach the drawing???

Thanks!!

Brew On!!


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