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Old 02-21-2013, 10:27 PM   #81
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you probably spoke with her 10 minutes after me.

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Old 06-17-2013, 09:22 AM   #82
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Quick question, is it safe to hook this cord (4-wire: red, black, white, green) to a 3-prong (L6-30 NEMA)? Do I simply cap-off the white?

Thanks for any advice.

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Old 06-17-2013, 09:44 AM   #83
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Quick question, is it safe to hook this cord (4-wire: red, black, white, green) to a 3-prong (L6-30 NEMA)? Do I simply cap-off the white?

Thanks for any advice.
No
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:15 PM   #84
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I believe the neutral is required for the gfi, u can't just cap it

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Old 06-17-2013, 06:35 PM   #85
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Quick question, is it safe to hook this cord (4-wire: red, black, white, green) to a 3-prong (L6-30 NEMA)? Do I simply cap-off the white?

Thanks for any advice.
Which end of the cord are you proposing to use the L6-30 or both? Is it the exact cord linked in the beginning of the thread?

Why do you want to do this? It already has 14-30s, why not use L14-30?

A 110/220 gfi monitors all currents in the three current carrying conductors and if the sum of the currents are non-zero it trips. Since this particular gfci was/is designed for a 110/220, the detection circuit inside the cord may need a neutral connection, back to the main panel, to operate correctly.
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Old 06-22-2013, 05:19 AM   #86
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So, I was trying to figure out if my build-in-progress would work. I am in the process of building something akin to Kal's set-up. Specifically, I have my hot water element in a junction box on the side of my pot (Kal's heating element set-up). So, I have a ground in the junction box, then 2 wires to hook up to my element. I was originally considering using L6-30's, ala Kal. If I use an L14-30, how should I wire the inside of the junction box / heating element (seems like I would have 1 too many wires)?

Thanks for helping this make more sense....

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