2P-Twent-E: the new Brouwerij Boerderij Kabouter - Page 8

southpawbrew · 09-10-2010, 03:47 AM

Ok I copied the 2p-Ewent-E control box almost verbatim. Everything was going along swimmingly, got 3-4 brews under my belt with the box. Last weekend had a brew day lined up got everything measured out ready to rock and bam no power to the rims element. Scoured through all the wiring nothings changed ok looks good. Took off the jumpers and pid settings to trigger the alarms to kill the element power just to simplify. Maybe that's crossing up somehow, no go still no power. Must be the ssr is shot. Yeah that's it. Order a new ssr from Aubers got here today wired it up no go...AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHH.

Ideas, things to check? I got two grain bills from BrewMasters Warehouse sitting in my fermentation chamber, crushed, and I want(need to get this problem solved. Any help is most appreciated

wyzazz · 09-10-2010, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by southpawbrew

Ok I copied the 2p-Ewent-E control box almost verbatim. Everything was going along swimmingly, got 3-4 brews under my belt with the box. Last weekend had a brew day lined up got everything measured out ready to rock and bam no power to the rims element. Scoured through all the wiring nothings changed ok looks good. Took off the jumpers and pid settings to trigger the alarms to kill the element power just to simplify. Maybe that's crossing up somehow, no go still no power. Must be the ssr is shot. Yeah that's it. Order a new ssr from Aubers got here today wired it up no go...AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHH.

Ideas, things to check? I got two grain bills from BrewMasters Warehouse sitting in my fermentation chamber, crushed, and I want(need to get this problem solved. Any help is most appreciated

Dead Element?

Boerderij_Kabouter · 09-10-2010, 12:44 PM

Do you have a multi-meter? That would really help to find the problem. I feel bad, I thought you were sure it was the SSR. It could be a dead element. I know that they can fail, even if you don't burn them dry.

If you have a multi-meter (or are willing to buy one, even a cheapo will work for hobby projects liek this), check the output from the PID, it should be 12v. Then, if that is working, check the output of the SSR when it is switched on. That should read 115vac or whatever you are pushing through from the wall.

Have you checked the fuses? Those are there for a reason... maybe you burned it. If so, first check to make sure a the proper fuse was there, then try to determine what would have drawn enough current to burn it.

southpawbrew · 09-10-2010, 04:28 PM

Boerderij_Kabouter:

Thanks for all your help, the box is solid I have something a miss and I just can't nail down what it is. It's not the box's fault he's ready to power through all the brews I have lined up

I feel like I'm letting him down.

If you have a multi-meter I do have a multi-meter and checked the output of the PID (5V) Ok there's an issue. Could it be a setting in the PID? I also notice that the LED light in the element switch is dim when in the on position. It has been dim from the beginning but functioned properly. I put a call into Auber looking for some help.

Check the output of the SSR when it is switched on. No output at all. The light on the SSR lights on/off in conjunction with the PID output light but no power to the element outlet. There is 115v power supplied to the input on the ssr.

It could be a dead element. The element is still good. It works when plugged into my other 20 amp outlet no tied to the ssr/pid control.

Have you checked the fuses? Last night I replaced the 20amp fuse on the circuit to the element plug. Looked fine but I replaced it just in case.

wyzazz · 09-10-2010, 04:57 PM

Definately sounds like your PID is malfunctioning somewhere, I'm sure the folks at Auber will get you squared away.

Boerderij_Kabouter · 09-10-2010, 05:12 PM

Hmmm..... the Auber SSR's should switch with anything over 3VDC. Seems odd that it is not switching.

Do you have the Auber PID (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_ id=3)? If so, it should be sending 12vDC to the SSR. That seems odd. If it isn't that PID, then it could be a 5v output model and everything is normal.

Do you have a power supply you could test the SSR with?

What a pain, I am sorry this happened to you. Putzy problems like that drive me mad.

southpawbrew · 09-10-2010, 05:43 PM

Yeah the Syl 2352 that's the pid I have the new ssr 25 amp also came from auber. Could I just use a 12v wall wort take the + and - and attach to the ssr to test? Is there a way to reset the pid to factory settings to see if that corrects something. Couldn't find that in the manual

Boerderij_Kabouter · 09-10-2010, 05:53 PM

I don't know of a reset. I would call Auber, they are super helpful.

southpawbrew · 09-10-2010, 11:21 PM

Got an e-mail back from Auber. There tech was out of the office today. Have to say the information may be helpful but I need help interpreting the info to make it relevant to the control box:

Quote:

We never wired the SSR output like you did. There seems two potential problems. 1) if the diode has a low break down potential , the 240 V will be added to the internal transistor and damage it. 2) the output of the SSR control has only limited capacity. It might not be able to drive the diode you have.
Here is how the SSR control output design.

The output driver is a 9013 transistor with a 200 ohm current limit resistor. The power to the transistor is 9V, not 12 V. The open circuit of the output is 8V, not 12V. If your load resistance is 200 ohm, the output will drop to 4V due to the internal current limit resistor.
I hope that helps.

Questions:

1. In this context is the diode referring to the item being switched (the element)?

2. He refers to the "240v being added to the transistor and damage it" where is the 240v coming from? This set up is only running on 110v. The "transistor" he refers to would be within the PID?

Boerderij_Kabouter · 09-11-2010, 11:53 AM

What did you send them? That is confusing? Any EE's want to chime in?