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Old 03-02-2010, 07:40 PM   #51
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You really should consider ditching the soldered ground wires to the lid and use ring terminals and a bolt.
Why?567890


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Old 03-02-2010, 07:46 PM   #52
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You really should consider ditching the soldered ground wires to the lid and use ring terminals and a bolt.
I wondered about that too when I saw the pic. I am sure it will work just fine like that but it seems like it would be a durability issue. It may not stay on there forever.

I would at least consider another option if you plan on getting a UL listing. I think I remember a thread where you were asking about that.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:50 PM   #53
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So the issue is the solder joint breaking away? Hmmm.... I did the solder because I figured it would be a better connection. Oh well.

Next time

It sounds like UL listing is crazy expensive and not worth my time. I may still be interested in it at some point. I am interested in being as close to code and safety regulations as possible. I love learning about this stuff!!!
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:00 PM   #54
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Unless you're beating the crap outta that toolbox I think it'll stay just fine. That is, as long as the area has been properly prepped!
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:03 PM   #55
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Well, I scraped down to bare metal. Then I tinned the area with solder, fluxed the crap out of it, and soldered the wires down. I think the connection is good for a solder connection.

I am surprised a screw or bolt is a better option, I would have thought a screw was more likely to come loose. Plus, this way nothing is sticking through the box.
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:06 PM   #56
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Well, I scraped down to bare metal. Then I tinned the area with solder, fluxed the crap out of it, and soldered the wires down. I think the connection is good for a solder connection.

I am surprised a screw or bolt is a better option, I would have thought a screw was more likely to come loose. Plus, this way nothing is sticking through the box.
Aesthetically it is better but with a bolt you can put a lock washer on it and it should never come loose.

Sounds like you prepped it right. I am sure you will not have any problems. It should be fine.
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:10 PM   #57
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But for future builds and reference, it is better to ground via a bolt with a lock washer.
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Old 03-03-2010, 12:39 AM   #58
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But for future builds and reference, it is better to ground via a bolt with a lock washer.
FWIW I think the solder joint is fine, and if it comes loose you could always replace it with a bolt/nut combo or re-solder it. If you were to market the concept or make it a UL listed "Appliance" you'd probably have to use a block or bolt.

Either way, it kicks ass!!!
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:17 PM   #59
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Ditto to the above. Didn't mean to be cryptic.
Also, probably not as much of an issue with a ground wire, but in a current carrying conductor, it is definitely not a good idea.
If the solder connection starts to deteriorate, the resistance at the junction goes up. When resistance goes up, temperature follows. When the temp goes up, the solder connection gets weaker, increasing the resistance. Vicious cycle kinda thing.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:31 PM   #60
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for the fan remember the chimney effect. inlet low exhaust hi. and better to draw fro both sides and exhaust in the center


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