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Old 02-03-2010, 04:51 PM   #11
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It is a 4 gallon finished volume rig.

That is most you can squeak out with 120VAC. If you want full 5g or 10g, you will need a 220 VAC supply. I don't have that easily available in my house, and I really like the idea of brewing anywhere at anyone's house with no special needs.
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:52 PM   #12
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Awesome!
Dude, your brain never rests!
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boerderij_Kabouter View Post
Yes, I suppose my explanation was lame. I just didn't want the first post to be a book...

Anyway, I like to brew using a lot of different mash schedules. Step mashes, infusion mashes, decoctions, etc. Basically I like flexibility. I will likely use the HERMS for any mash with a single temperature rest. The RIMS will be used for multi-temp or ramp mashes. And I can use none if I want to as well. Basically, I can do whatever I want and test whatever I want. That is just how I like it.



There are 5 outlets. I have updated the first post to include the wiring diagram. I suppose that is important... duh. I can't win em all.

The box takes in 20 amps of 120VAC. The element is a 2000W High Density element and at full power would draw 17 amps. The rest draws almost nothing. We have tested Jeremy's Simple Brewery and it doesn't even draw over 15 amps in practice with everything running.
OK, this makes more sense. Basically, you are never using the HERMS and the RIMS at the same time, so not so much current draw. I thought you were going to use both at once to somehow get more heat into the system (e.g. to do 5 gallon+ batches).
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weirdboy View Post
OK, this makes more sense. Basically, you are never using the HERMS and the RIMS at the same time, so not so much current draw. I thought you were going to use both at once to somehow get more heat into the system (e.g. to do 5 gallon+ batches).
Not in the plan, but maybe it would work???? We'll see in about a month.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:19 PM   #15
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VERY flexible! I like it!

Where will you take temp readings for the PID?
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:34 PM   #16
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Great to hear from an inspiration!!!

For those unaware jkarp is the mastermind of 120VAC for e-brewing.

.................................................. ........
The PID uses an RTD that I will be able to move around. Each vessel will have a thermowell in
the sightglass base. Each sight glass will be assembled like this:





with one of these

threaded into the connection instead of the plug.

I will also have a thermowell for monitoring liquid temp through the heat exchangers:
http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-Tri-Clover-Inline-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html


The thermowells as well as a ton of other stuff are all coming from HBT member Derrin ala


So I will be able to check temps wherever I want. Or at least that is the idea. I will also have
two analog thermos sticking through the lids down into the mash/boil.

Last edited by Boerderij_Kabouter; 03-18-2010 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:36 PM   #17
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Portable RTD was EXACTLY what I was thinking. Great minds...
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Old 02-03-2010, 06:01 PM   #18
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I like you man. Subscribed

I really like the idea of being able to brew anywhere...being able to use 120VAC is FREAKING HUGE. I guess I'm still clinging to "bigger is better", though. Even though I'm designing a single vessel rig, I still think it's going to be big...like 2' W x2.5'D x3.5'H (able to telescope to ~5' high). After using the SIMPLE brewery, and starting this build I have a few questions about your basic design:

How long does it take you to get up to a boil/heat strike water?
-Did your efficiency suffer from continuous recirculation like some say?
-How was the beer; how big of an OG can you go?
-Did 4 gallons last a while, or did you find that you had to brew more often? I find 5 gallons lasts me a few weeks...sometimes I do 10 gallon batches if it's a tried and true recipe.
-How easy was your cleanup, since you have to dump the MLT and then add icewater back in?

Really looking forward to seeing this turn out. I almost have to stop buying parts because I keep changing/improving my design!
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:14 PM   #19
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We haven't brewed with the Simple Brewery yet. So I can't give you hard answers. I can answer a few though...

Quote:
1. How long does it take you to get up to a boil/heat strike water?
2. Did your efficiency suffer from continuous recirculation like some say?
3. How was the beer; how big of an OG can you go?
4. Did 4 gallons last a while, or did you find that you had to brew more often? I find 5 gallons lasts me a few weeks...sometimes I do 10 gallon batches if it's a tried and true recipe.
5. How easy was your cleanup, since you have to dump the MLT and then add icewater back in?
1. It goes quick. I don't have the numbers in front of me, but I think it took around 15-20 minutes to get 5g from sparge temps to boil. It may have been quicker than that though.

2. I have never seen constant circulation to hurt efficiency??? I have seen over 80% with a constant circ. I like to aim for efficiency below 80% and I really like 75%. I don't think that will be a problem with this system.

3. No results yet.

4. I am making this rig so I CAN brew more often. I used to brew all 10g batches. Yes the beer will go much faster, but when it is easier to brew and faster I think everyone wins.

5. Again, I haven't used it yet, but cleanup should be a breeze. Shop vac the grains out, dump into a bag, rinse out the MLT, fill with ice, top with water, and Bob's yer uncle.
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:35 PM   #20
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Where do I get one?
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