2P-Twent-E: the new Brouwerij Boerderij Kabouter
For those who know me here and have followed some of my various ideas, blogs, threads, and other rants/comment/mumblings dealing with homebreweries, you will know I used to be building toward this:
that thread can be found here. I loved brewing on the system and all the concepts were proved. However, I didn't have the money to get it fully setup and running with automation and the whole-9. So I sold it to a member from HBT... dun dun dun...
Meanwhile, I designed a smaller scale system for a friend. He has called his brewery the Simple Brewery. It is a design based on Brutus 20 (Lonnie Mac) and the Countertop 20 (Jkarp) with a few changes. I call this design the Twent-E2 (pronounced twenty-two) because it is a two vessel system that is fully electric and two-tier.
Here is how the Twent-E2 works:
The Simple Brewery is almost complete. You can see the build and progress here.
Now that you have some history, here is the present build idea.
This design is called the 2P-Twent-E. It is a single-tier, two vessel system with two pumps, all electric, and runs on 120 VAC (20amp). The beauty of both 2P-Twent-E and Twent-E2 (like the countertop 20) is that they can be run anywhere that has 20 amp power (any kitchen or garage generally).
Here are some concept drawings:
Here you can see the MLT on the left and the boil kettle to the right. Both the MLT and the BK have pumps directly connected to their outlets. All fluid flow will be pumped. A RIMS heat exchanger tube is positioned on the output of the MLT and a HERMS heat exchanger coil is mounted in the BK lid. Both vessels have returns.
This view gives you a peek into the kettles. The MLT has a full false bottom and a return that will have a loc-line hose (not shown). You can also see the electric heating element (2000W HD 120VAC).http://www.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/...oncept_002.png
This is a view from the back and shows the return and pick up in the BK. It is setup to whirlpool while chilling.
A better view of the connections in the MLT.
And to give you some scale, I am 5'9". The stand will be a stainless topped equipment stand, 32" by 60" top and 25" tall.
The kegs are rubber coated for added insulation and because they look awesome. The control box looks like a toolbox because it is.
and here is how the 2P-Twent-E will function on brew day:
and here is the wiring diagram for the box:
For those code minkeys following the Simple Brewery thread, I changed all of your suggestions. I bought a flanged recessed male outlet ($17.00 thank you very much), bought covers for all the terminal blocks, and am using insulated grounds. I have also made solder grounds to all sections of the box and there are no pumps inside anymore.
I hope that makes sense. I will save a bunch of posts after this first one for pics updates and whatnot.
Control Box construction
The following pictures show the construction of the control toolbox.
I started by laying out the holes for the outlets on the back of the box. I used
blue painter's tape and a permanent marker to make my marks, then I center
Next drill pilot holes with a metal drill bit. The top and bottom holes you see
are for the mounting screws.
Then, you can remove the tape and drill the holes with a hole saw. You will
have to size the bits for the outlets you are using.
Moving onto the front of the panel, I laid out the switches and PID in the
Again, pilot drill then drill the final size. I used a step bit to finish these
holes. Here are the switches mounted.
To cut the hole for the PID, I used a Dremel rotary tool with a metal cutting wheel. Take your time to make straight accurate lines. Then clean up the edge and install the PID. The PID I am using just clicks in from the front and a gasket seals the joint.
The fan is mounted in the back corner to provide a nice forced air flow for cooling all the components. I am trying out the fan with no holes in the box to start with. If I need more cooling, I can cut some vents later.
Control Toolbox Wiring
Here I will go through the internal wiring according to the wiring diagram from post #1.
It all starts with some heavy duty double sided tape. This is how I will mount
the internal components to the bottom of the box. Clean and effective.
Here I am assembling the power distribution blocks. They include 4-terminal
blocks, 4-position jumpers, straight blade-style QD's, label bvases, and covers.
I used super glue to assemble the bases and the covers to the terminal blocks.
This is a fully assembled block. You can see the jumper bent down so the QD's are accessible.
Fully covered.... sexy.
To mount the SSR to the heat sink, squeeze the white silicon goo onto the
bottom of the SSR. Then press it onto the heat sink and position. Screw
the SSR down then clean excess silicon goo away.
Then cut the double sided tape to size and adhere to the bottoms of your components. Now they are all ready to go!
Here are some wiring shots. Basically, all you need to do is follow the above
wiring diagram and connect all the components. Try to be orderly and make
nice tight turns and keep the wires grouped. This is still messier than it will
be because I am not done and the wires in the main box are not tied down.
So far I have the hot leads wired to the fuse terminals, power in completed,
mash pump completed, and boil kettle pump completed.
This is a shot of the outlets and the dirsto blocks.
Neutral and ground.
Mash pump switch on left, boil kettle switch on right.
Pretty outlets. I will have labels made for these in the future.
The box is complete!
From left to right: Mash pump - Boil Kettle Pump - Element - RTD sensor - PID
Here is a back side shot of the PID/sensor/switch. The wiring is accoarding to the wiring diagram. The sensor wires are soldered in place. Do not use an connectors for wiring the sensor to the PID. Just clamp the sensor wires directly with the PID clamps. The big white blob is a splice connection that leads to the nuetral plane for the switch LEDs. Looking back, the tape looks bad, the connections looked clean. I used plastic insulated slice connectors to match the 12AWG. Whoop, next time...
I grounded the box by scratching away paint from portions of the paint in the box.
I then tinned the exposed area with solder.
After tinning, I positioned my ground wires ad soldered them in place.
The second ground runs to the lid. I was told that a hinge is not acceptable ground contact, and since the lid is what you are touching most, I think it is a good idea to directly tie it to the ground plane.
Everything is done except the fan! That is super easy to add, but I ran out of cash...
I also printed out some labels for my terminal blocks. The numbers correspond to the positions on the wiring diagram. This should make reference easy, should I ever need to change or fix something.
Here is how I put together my temp probe. I purchased an RTD from Auber instruments, some PET wrap, and the RTD panel connector from Auber.
Tape and shrink wrap the PET to the sensor.
Then solder the sensor wires to the connector. Be sure you put the collar on the wire before soldering the ends in place... I did that the first time...
I soldered the clear wire to pin 1, and the reds to pins 2 and 3. It is important to be consistent between the connector and the panel mount. 1 is always clear, 2 and 3 are always red. Then the sensor wil work properly.
These are the cords I built for power in and element power. 12AWG stranded, protected with PET weave, heat shrunk ends, and 20 amp plugs.
First brewday pics and vids....
I suppose you are getting to this, but can you explain why it has both a RIMS and a HERMS?
Also, to my untrained electrician's eyes, wouldn't you need like...3 or 4 outlets on separate breakers to run this?
Anyway, I like to brew using a lot of different mash schedules. Step mashes, infusion mashes, decoctions, etc. Basically I like flexibility. I will likely use the HERMS for any mash with a single temperature rest. The RIMS will be used for multi-temp or ramp mashes. And I can use none if I want to as well. Basically, I can do whatever I want and test whatever I want. That is just how I like it.
The box takes in 20 amps of 120VAC. The element is a 2000W High Density element and at full power would draw 17 amps. The rest draws almost nothing. We have tested Jeremy's Simple Brewery and it doesn't even draw over 15 amps in practice with everything running.
Is this an under 5 gallon rig like the simple or is it a full 5g?
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