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Old 09-26-2013, 02:31 PM   #21
LandoLincoln
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Originally Posted by jonurban View Post
this might do what you need:

Product Description:
This switch will open or close the electric circuit when liquid level reaches a specific position. It can be used to activate a pump when liquid level is low, or to open the heating circuit to prevent the damage of the heater. For activating the pump when liquid level is low, the sensor tip should be mounted downwards as shown in the picture below. For cutting off the heating circuit when liquid level is low, the sensor tip should be mounted upwards. Since the switch is rated for 0.8 Amp, a typical wiring is to put it in series with relay (or solid state relay) control loop.

Specification
Float Switch(stainless steel Float Switch,Liquid Switch)
Rated voltage: 220VAC/24VDC
Rated curent: 0.8A
Insulation Impedance: >10MΩ
Applied pressure :20/50 Pa
Working temperature: -10 ºC~130 ºC (14 ºF~266 ºF)
Cable length: 17 inch

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=324
I have installed one of those in both my HLT and my BK. It's already saved my HLT heating element once when I got distracted and forgot to turn off the heating element switch while the water drained. See? I told you that I was easily distracted! For only 11 bucks, it's a very cheap insurance policy.

The float can be turned upside down if you'd prefer to have the switch facing downwards instead of up, btw. It's a very nice SS float switch. Highly recommend them from Auber Instruments.

I made a quick disconnect for them using a standard mono audio jack, so I don't have a long cord dangling when I move the pots for cleaning purposes.
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:38 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jonurban View Post
this might do what you need:

This looks interesting. It would work great in an HLT or boil kettle. For an MLT, it would need to fit under the false bottom, at least the float itself would have to be able to move unimpeded by the grains. It's interesting in that it can be normally open or normally closed. It is likely based on some type of reed or Hall effect switch, with the magnet in the float. By inverting the float, one can change between NC and NO. It has a relatively low current rating, so it would still be necessary to run control wires back to the panel to prevent an SSR or contactor from firing the kettle. Overall, the design is ideal for this purpose, as it is rated up to 266F.
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:10 PM   #23
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Subbed... This is almost exactly what I plan to build. I'll be using a US Solar pump instead with a PWM control. It looks great though. Congrats!

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Old 11-11-2013, 09:52 PM   #24
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Why PWM on the pump? Won't the constant start/stop be hard on the pump as opposed just throttling the output with a valve?

Did I miss a thread somewhere discussing this?

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Old 11-11-2013, 10:51 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by KPSquared View Post
Why PWM on the pump? Won't the constant start/stop be hard on the pump as opposed just throttling the output with a valve?

Did I miss a thread somewhere discussing this?
Sorry I meant potentiometer control. US Solar pumps are 12-24 vdc, so perfectly suited for control with a pot. Dc motors have the advantage of maintaining torque throughout their entire voltage range and these US solars can start with as little 8vdc and then be powered down to add little as 2vdc. Cheaper and more accurate than throttling with a ball valve, but again they are not as blingy as a chugger or March pump.
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:13 PM   #26
KPSquared
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Sorry I meant potentiometer control. US Solar pumps are 12-24 vdc, so perfectly suited for control with a pot. Dc motors have the advantage of maintaining torque throughout their entire voltage range and these US solars can start with as little 8vdc and then be powered down to add little as 2vdc. Cheaper and more accurate than throttling with a ball valve, but again they are not as blingy as a chugger or March pump.
I was under the impression the low voltage tended to cook these pumps based on a few threads where guys had to small of power supply. Or is that related to current? I would way rather have a pot than a valve.

Sorry for the thread jack OP
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Old 11-13-2013, 04:43 AM   #27
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Quote:
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I was under the impression the low voltage tended to cook these pumps based on a few threads where guys had to small of power supply. Or is that related to current? I would way rather have a pot than a valve.

Sorry for the thread jack OP
I should be ok. I'm not using a wall wart like a lot of people. I have a snazzy din rail mounted power supply that should easily handle the power requirements. It'll supply 60W at 24vdc. Also wall warts tend to give off pretty dirty power with lots of spikes and bounce. My power supply isn't cheap, but it is rock solid stable and I use similar 240W ones at work to supply power for our super sensitive emissions analyzers. That data gets sent to the EPA, so it needs to be reliable and accurate.
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:30 PM   #28
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I have a few questions about this build

How important is the use of pumps, does being able to recirculate and whirlpool really make a big difference?

Will this still work well if the pump is omitted? How much easier/better does the pump make things?

Thanks

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Old 01-15-2014, 04:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martianpc View Post
I have a few questions about this build

How important is the use of pumps, does being able to recirculate and whirlpool really make a big difference?

Will this still work well if the pump is omitted? How much easier/better does the pump make things?

Thanks
Recirc helps keep mash temps more consistent from top to bottom. Also helped on the few step mashes I have done.

I leave a lot of trub behind when I whirlpool. Cuts out a step when washing yeast for me. Hop stands are easy too.

Lots of people biab w/o a pump. The pump just gives you more flexibility.
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Old 01-15-2014, 04:36 PM   #30
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The pumps mentioned above are $21.00.... and certainly worth it..I use the same setup pwms and all

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