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Old 06-14-2012, 03:32 PM   #11
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I think that I may just follow this build instruction, only using a regular stock pot vs a keg (unless I find a keg cheap):

http://www.instructables.com/id/Elec...stem/?ALLSTEPS

Anyone got any suggestions for being able to run more than one PID and heating element out of this setup?

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Old 06-14-2012, 03:48 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by BeardedIdiot View Post
I think that I may just follow this build instruction, only using a regular stock pot vs a keg (unless I find a keg cheap):

http://www.instructables.com/id/Elec...stem/?ALLSTEPS

Anyone got any suggestions for being able to run more than one PID and heating element out of this setup?
Please tell me what you are trying to do. I originally thought that you were trying to go with a BIAB (Brew In A Bag) set up which is a single vessel brew rig. As you probably know, I've drawn many diagrams for electric brew setups. I'm more than willing to draw a plan for you.

Please let me help you.

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Old 06-14-2012, 04:08 PM   #13
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Ok. Well, I initially wanted to do BIAB, because it seemed like an easy, next step from extract brewing. I've been reading a lot more on here, and looking at a bunch of your guys all-electric builds has gotten me thinking (and jealous).

I just figure that, I have a 240v line not being used in the garage. I'd like to find a way to get this configured so that I can run an electric brew pot off of it. More than one would be awesome, but if I can only do one this way, then that is ok as well.

I am trying to do this the cheapest, easiest, but safest way possible. I do not have a lot of extra funds to do this project with, so it will have to be a bit of a longer term project.

However, I want to do this RIGHT the first time, and not electrocute myself, or burn down the house.

I was just reading several threads talking about mash tuns, and since you can get everything at Home Depot for less than $50, I think what I want to do is go with a 5 or 10 gallon mash tun, and then a 10-12 gallon brew pot (or a converted keg, if I can find one cheap enough) with an electric heating element.

I would like to be able to control the electric heating element with a PID/SSR so that I can monitor and control temperature. I'm not really interested in doing more than that at the moment. I can just use a pitcher to transfer from the pot to the mash tun to start, and then gravity drain back from there. I won't mess with pumps until I get further into brewing.

I would LOVE for you to help me with this. I've seen some of your other posts and projects, and was working myself up to PM you so that I could ask some questions anyways.

Sorry if this thread is all over the place, I'm reading constantly and getting new idea's, and I've been having trouble finding exactly the kind of information I'm looking for. A controller sounds great, but I don't want anything too complicated or expensive.

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Old 06-14-2012, 04:09 PM   #14
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Sorry, double post.

I like the diagram that you showed in this thread:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/wir...-setup-241686/

Only, I think I would like to have it set up to run 2 PID/SSR's, and have 2 outlets.

Might also be nice to have something that can have 1-2 120v outlets as well, in case I need to plug in a pump in the future, or something like that.

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Old 06-15-2012, 01:11 AM   #15
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I was thinking about this while I was at the box store.

Could I connect a spa panel to a control panel, with all of the goodies mounted inside, and then have both of them mounted on a rolling cart (that my brew kettles and mash tun would sit on). Then, rather than having the spa panel hardwired into the house electrical, just run a plug out of the spa panel. Then, when I want to brew, I could just plug the spa panel cord into the 240v socket I already have, and everything should be kosher, yes? Or is this just wishful thinking?

I like the idea, because then I don't have to alter any of the house wiring, and don't need to worry about getting a permit or having it inspected, or adding something that I might have to remove later. This way its all mounted on the cart, and I just have to plug the spa panel in to get everything powered up.

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Old 06-15-2012, 01:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeardedIdiot View Post
I was thinking about this while I was at the box store.

Could I connect a spa panel to a control panel, with all of the goodies mounted inside, and then have both of them mounted on a rolling cart (that my brew kettles and mash tun would sit on). Then, rather than having the spa panel hardwired into the house electrical, just run a plug out of the spa panel. Then, when I want to brew, I could just plug the spa panel cord into the 240v socket I already have, and everything should be kosher, yes? Or is this just wishful thinking?

I like the idea, because then I don't have to alter any of the house wiring, and don't need to worry about getting a permit or having it inspected, or adding something that I might have to remove later. This way its all mounted on the cart, and I just have to plug the spa panel in to get everything powered up.
The issue with this is that your GFCI protection is more likely to get wet given it will be close to the control panel and close to where you are brewing. Remember, everything north of the spa panel has no GFCI protection, which can be an issue if it (the spa panel) gets wet.
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Old 06-15-2012, 02:36 AM   #17
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The issue with this is that your GFCI protection is more likely to get wet given it will be close to the control panel and close to where you are brewing. Remember, everything north of the spa panel has no GFCI protection, which can be an issue if it (the spa panel) gets wet.
Ok. Perhaps I could mount the spa panel on the wall but still use a plug to connect it to the existing 240v line. Then just have a plug from the control panel connect to the spa panel?
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Old 06-15-2012, 04:44 PM   #18
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Ok. Perhaps I could mount the spa panel on the wall but still use a plug to connect it to the existing 240v line. Then just have a plug from the control panel connect to the spa panel?
Bingo. (Yes, that's the way to go.)
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Last edited by copyright1997; 06-15-2012 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Explain further
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Old 06-16-2012, 05:28 PM   #19
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I caught this thread just in time, I have had some great suggestions given me, some bounce off of mae thick skill others manage to sink in. That said, I am going to start moving towards an electric system, run by the brewtroller. I have been shatting with Matt and Jerry and they are a huge help.
So, because the only thing I want roasted in my brewery is my malts. I am going to go with the spa panel, pull the GFCI, put it in a sub-panel with additional breakers to feed out high voltage and low voltage seperately. If I have this right the only voltage that needs to go to the control panel is the 110.
That way, I can run three elements off 240, and everything else off 110. It will all be GFCI protected with seperate breakers for each item.
DO I HAVE THIS RIGHT? IS THIS THE BEST WAT TO GO?

Cheers
Scott

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Old 06-16-2012, 10:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hielan_piobaire View Post
I caught this thread just in time, I have had some great suggestions given me, some bounce off of mae thick skill others manage to sink in. That said, I am going to start moving towards an electric system, run by the brewtroller. I have been shatting with Matt and Jerry and they are a huge help.
So, because the only thing I want roasted in my brewery is my malts. I am going to go with the spa panel, pull the GFCI, put it in a sub-panel with additional breakers to feed out high voltage and low voltage seperately. If I have this right the only voltage that needs to go to the control panel is the 110.
That way, I can run three elements off 240, and everything else off 110. It will all be GFCI protected with seperate breakers for each item.
DO I HAVE THIS RIGHT? IS THIS THE BEST WAT TO GO?

Cheers
Scott
Please give us a little more details on your intended set up.

I'm not sure that I understand your description of: -
Quote:
the only voltage that needs to go to the control panel is the 110
Please help us help you.

P-J
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