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Old 12-16-2010, 11:53 AM   #21
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seems too good to be true, but would this work for the pwm?

http://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=383

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Old 12-16-2010, 12:31 PM   #22
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Instead of a dryer cable, this cable should work, right
4 wire, flexible, 1.42 a ft

http://www.stayonline.com/searchresu...ategoryid=3295

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Old 12-16-2010, 12:39 PM   #23
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This looks like a straight blade for 17

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect....30P/p1074.html

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Old 12-16-2010, 12:49 PM   #24
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That PWM will work, but has to be modified to a longer interval. Motor controllers will switch the power on and off many many times per second. That's extremely hard on a SSR. YOu need to change the capacitor to make the on/off interval at least 1-2 seconds.

That 10-3 will work fine. You don't need 10-4 unless you plan to pull 120 volts for something. You'll find 120 volts from either hot wire to neutral. 240 is hot to hot. If it's just the PWM and the element, you can run everything at 240.

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Originally Posted by Ecnerwal View Post
What does the primary pressure gauge on the tank tell us? That's right, the temperature. Put it on a scale if you want to know how much is in it...
Put some duct tape over the gauge - Or better yet - Replace the high pressure gauge with a plug - High pressure gauges are useless!
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Old 12-16-2010, 01:06 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milldoggy View Post
This looks like a straight blade for 17

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect....30P/p1074.html
this is a 4 prong, i need a 3.
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Old 12-16-2010, 01:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SweetSounds View Post
That PWM will work, but has to be modified to a longer interval. Motor controllers will switch the power on and off many many times per second. That's extremely hard on a SSR. YOu need to change the capacitor to make the on/off interval at least 1-2 seconds.
yeah, i saw that in another thread about switching that.



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Originally Posted by SweetSounds View Post
That 10-3 will work fine. You don't need 10-4 unless you plan to pull 120 volts for something. You'll find 120 volts from either hot wire to neutral. 240 is hot to hot. If it's just the PWM and the element, you can run everything at 240
this wire? http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=15113

i am considering going to herms later... do you guys think i should consider going the PID route?
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...th=1&products_ id=3&zenid=536b4049734604428f30ff26e1743a0e
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Old 12-16-2010, 01:18 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defenestrate View Post
this wire? http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=15113

i am considering going to herms later... do you guys think i should consider going the PID route?
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...th=1&products_ id=3&zenid=536b4049734604428f30ff26e1743a0e
Yep - That wire.
PID is a good option if you want it. It's not necessary, though. For your BK a PID is overkill. You just need a throttle on a big element. For mashing though, PID is the only way to go.

And if you design it right, you can implement both in the same box, and use it for both mashing and the boil... All for about $45 difference (By adding the PID and a switch)
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Originally Posted by Ecnerwal View Post
What does the primary pressure gauge on the tank tell us? That's right, the temperature. Put it on a scale if you want to know how much is in it...
Put some duct tape over the gauge - Or better yet - Replace the high pressure gauge with a plug - High pressure gauges are useless!
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Old 12-16-2010, 01:26 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SweetSounds View Post
Yep - That wire.
PID is a good option if you want it. It's not necessary, though. For your BK a PID is overkill. You just need a throttle on a big element. For mashing though, PID is the only way to go.

And if you design it right, you can implement both in the same box, and use it for both mashing and the boil... All for about $45 difference (By adding the PID and a switch)
that was going to be my next question... if i could keep the pwm for bk control and heating off the mash water in the bk, then use a PID in a cooler for the HLT.
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Old 12-16-2010, 01:38 PM   #29
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and here is the element i will be ordering

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images...ment-02963.jpg

5500 eld, $26

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Old 12-16-2010, 01:45 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by defenestrate View Post
that was going to be my next question... if i could keep the pwm for bk control and heating off the mash water in the bk, then use a PID in a cooler for the HLT.
You can do it one of two ways...
(Disclaimer: It is my preference to use one SSR for each leg of a 240 volt load)

You can use 2 SSRs for one element hookup, and use a switch to connect either the PWM or the PID to the SSR triggers. This way you flip the switch to "Manual" or "Auto" And plug the RIMs/HERMs element in for the mash, and then plug in the BK element for the boil.

Or you can use 4 SSRs, and hook the PWM to one pair to drive the BK element, and the other pair to the PID to drive a RIMs or HERMs. Essentially, the cost difference is in the extra parts. To double the outputs, you need to double the SSRs, wire, and 240v plugs.

Both are great options, and both are used by many here. Just be aware of your load - If you go with option 2 you can never use both at the same time on a 30 amp circuit. If you want to use both, you'll need to move up to a 50 amp service - Which requires heavier wire and components.

Volts X Amps = Watts
Watts / Volts = Amps

So 5500 / 240 = 22.9 Amps - Well inside your 30 amp service
5500(BK) + 2000(RIMs) = 7500 /240 = 31.25 amps - 30 amps isn't enough
2 X 5500 = 11000 / 240 = 45.83 amps - Time for a bigger breaker, 6 gauge wire instead of 10, yadda yadda yadda

The other thing to remember (In option 2, with a 30 amp service) is that you can't even run both elements at the same time at 50% power. Because of the way pulse width modulation works...
A 50% power setting at the PWM means 100% power to the element, 50% of the time. It's the same for a PID as well.
So if both the PID and the PWM are set for 50%, and they both fire (100%) at the same time, it's a 200% load on your system.

Edit: that's probably in the top 2 most used elements here - You'll be in good company.
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Originally Posted by Ecnerwal View Post
What does the primary pressure gauge on the tank tell us? That's right, the temperature. Put it on a scale if you want to know how much is in it...
Put some duct tape over the gauge - Or better yet - Replace the high pressure gauge with a plug - High pressure gauges are useless!
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